Can anyone recommend what wood i should use?

[BambFurniture]

Hi i have designed this built in wardbrobe for a friend, and i am looking to build it as cheap as possible for them but at the same time i want it to be structually sound.

I was thinking of using MDF for everything due to its smooth finish after painting. Didnt want to use plywood as they want it to look modern so all clean lines and no grain showing.

Im just wondering if anyone else has any more suggestions at all? I have built beds out of MDF but i hate that MDF doesnt hold screws very well. Was also thinking about using CONTI board with a Melamine finish but that would defeat my object of keeping the price down.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I have attatched a picture of the design.

Many Thanks

 

[Steve Maskery]

A design like that can be made perfectly well out of MDF. Use MRMDF if you want to paint it, or veneered in your favourite flavour of wood if polishing.
Pocket-hole joinery would be my preferred method, I have done several this way, and it allows you to get everything upstairs without too much trouble. If you lay them out properly, all the screws are in places where you do not see them.

 

[MrYorke]

As recommended, use MR MDF. More expensive but MUCH better finish when painting it.

Pilot holed and counter sunk, you'll get a good contact with the screws. Most of my work is MR MDF and its works well for this type of project.

My preference is to use ply for the base of he drawer boxes. Others may differ.

Good luck and let us know how you get on

 

[BambFurniture]

Thanks for the information guys, much appreciated.

How much would you expect i can pick up sheets of MRMDF for? I have seen the wickes sell it for £24 for 8x4 sheets.

Do you think i will be able to get it cheaper from anywhere else?

Many Thanks

 

[MrYorke]

Didn't know Wickes did MR. Wouldn't know what the quality is like either.

I get mine from a local merchant. I pay £26 per board.

You could try www.selcobw.com

 

[BambFurniture]

Another question one thing im new to is the whole pocket hole assembly. For 18mm board what size pocket hole screws should i use?

Many Thanks

 

[paulrockliffe]

I believe that plasterboard screws are better than wood screws with MDF. It's a pain to do, but if there are any bits that are particularly difficult to get a strong enough joint on, the best way to fix MDF together is to use a tap and then fix it together with machine bolts. Probably not going to be necessary for what you're doing, but worth being aware of for future projects.

If you can find a decent local timber place you could email them your cutting list and then go and collect it all ready cut to size. That would be worth paying slightly more for I reckon.

I'm not the person to advise, but the key to doing a decent job with MDF is how you finish the edges, so if someone could jump in and talk the OP through that that would be ace. I've only ever done the edges by facing with hardwood, so it would save me starting another thread in the near future.

 

[hanser]

Hi Bamb

Try these guys. They don't stock MRDF but will order it in and cut to your list http://fanorthcarltonltd.co.uk/

 

[Benchwayze]

Another question one thing im new to is the whole pocket hole assembly. For 18mm board what size pocket hole screws should i use?

Many Thanks

Bamb...


If you use a jig, like the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig, it will be adjustable to the thickness of the material you are DRILLING INTO. The screws are all the same gauge, but of varying lengths. Coarse thread for soft wood and particle boards. Fine thread for most hardwood.

Provided you have set the jig properly, when you drill the pocket, the hole stops short of the other side.This is so the screw can thread its way through, and into the other piece.
Thus, the length of the screw depends on the thickness of material the screw is actually being driven into.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZ6Gd72vn4w

or better still:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebCb70dcynA


it's confusing but you soon get the hang of it. Honest!

HTH

John

 

[Zeddedhed]

If I were you I'd use Spax M-cut screws, and then just drill a pilot hole and countersink with one of those Trend Snappy combined drill bits and then screw away. I've built hundreds of cabinets like this from MDF and it's fine. If you're butt jointing 18mm boards use a 40mm No 4.

 

[MrYorke]

As above. Butt joint, glued and screwed. Unless you're going to be doing a lot of these then don't bother investing in jigs etc.

As for the edges. Use either Zinnser Bin or Johnstones equivalent. Expensive but great stuff. Paint on, wait to dry. Sand back with 120grit. Assuming you're painting it.

 

[BambFurniture]

So here is the final piece finished, used pocket holes for most of the joinery and has worked a treat.

Added some mood changing LED lights above it.

 

[Droogs]

nicely done, did you use a jig in the end?

 

[MrYorke]

That's great. What set-up did you use for the sliding doors?

 

[BambFurniture]

I just used a Kreg pocket hole jig, litterally the whole of this wardrobe apart from the doors is pocket holes, most hidden on the outside of the carcass so they cannot be seen. The door tracks where Ares Sliding Door System. And i tell you they really are silent even with the wardrobe being fitted ontop of laminate flooring.