Buying Advice Planer or thicknesser

[SkyBlu]

Hi All
Looking around for I think a thicknesser, let me explain logic. If i use the thicknesser to clean and size the widest faces of wood using thicknesser then then I can use my table saw to finish the narrowest part. Having looked around at what is about and with limited budget(200-250) plus that everything that fit's within said budget in p/t range is cheap and nasty I think just buying a thicknesser would make more sense.
Your thoughts please

Cheers
Geoff

 

[marcros]

a planer will flatten one side (and edge) of a board. This is the starting point for thicknessing- the thicknesser references from this flattened face and removes material from the other (non flat) side of the board.

If you just have a thicknesser, you need to somehow flatten that first face- either a planer function or a hand plane. If you do not, you will end up with a non flat board of constant thickness. The thicknesser will follow and twists and bowing in the board.

for 250 you might get something reasonable secondhand, just. if you are patient there are some bargains that come up on ebay. depending how much you do, doing it by hand may be better than buying something very cheap.

You can build a sled to use through a thicknesser if you look online. I havent done so, they potentially look useful if you dont have a planer.

 

[dzj]

If you are mechanically inclined, an old second hand machine could be the answer.
They're mostly well built and there aren't many things that can go wrong .
Changing bearings and some 'cosmetic' work and that's usually it.

 

[nicguthrie]

I had the same question for an age. I hummed and hawed about which was best. In my case I was after something for making smallish boards from scrap and raw lumber.

I decided to buy neither. I found tutorials like this http://youtu.be/qtkBZHLJyD0 and others on youtube about how to to the job with a decent router and a jig. I've heard mixed reports from those that have used the technique that I know, but usually the naysayers admit that they just didn't put a lot of effort into the jig they used. I'm looking forward to giving it a go, but haven't had the health to do much in the workshop for a while.

Clincher for me was that the planer or thicknesser would take permanent space in a small workshop. A rail jig can stand against a wall / be strapped to the ceiling etc, or even be built for the occasion. I realise it won't be for you if you plan on doing a lot of thicknessing or "Jointing"/planing but it may be something to think about.

Nic.

 

[cgarry]

Can you still get a decent planer/thicknesser for a reasonable price on eBay? I have been watching for a while and it seems to me that they all sell for a premium.

Not that I would have a clue how to tell the difference between a good P/T and a trashed P/T if I did find one to go and inspect!

 

[Mainman]

I have been looking on Ebay for ages for a P/T but most seem quite expensive. Does anybody have any knowledge of the Titan machines. I am pretty sure they are not fantastic quality but at he moment I am just starting out and dont have a lot to spend. I thought I would start with a cheap one and later ask her indoors if I can upgrade. Any advice would be appreciated. I have about £200 to spend.

 

[no idea]

I have been looking on Ebay for ages for a P/T but most seem quite expensive. Does anybody have any knowledge of the Titan machines. I am pretty sure they are not fantastic quality but at he moment I am just starting out and dont have a lot to spend. I thought I would start with a cheap one and later ask her indoors if I can upgrade. Any advice would be appreciated. I have about £200 to spend.

I've just done what you are thinking of - I've been after a decent planer thicknesser for a while but haven't found one at a reasonable price. I decided to give the Titan ago to see how much use I would find for a P/T. The Titan was great out of the box.

However, I noticed that when planning, the last couple of centimetres to go through would be cut to a greater depth than the rest (is this snipe?). At this point I thought the blades had not been set correctly so I had a go at adjusting them. Unfortunately I cannot get them to the point where they are as well set as they were from the factory, never mind sorting out the overcut on the last bit of the board! I am debating whether to return it or persevere with it. The tinkerer in me says persevere with it because if I do get a full size P/T in future, blade setting will be a key skill I need to master so may as well practice on the Titan...

 

[marcros]

that is snipe.

 

[SPSlick]

I posted recently about the Titan I bought which was completely useless. Of four machines bought by four different posters only one worked properly.

 

[Mainman]

Thanks for the comments on the Titan. I think I'll keep scouring Ebay and of course on here.

 

[Fromey]

A relevant thread for me as well as I appear to spend most of my time and energy in just getting my boards ready. My shed is too small for a P/T, so I'm considering a Jet tabletop thicknesser (http://www.axminster.co.uk/jet-jwp-12-b ... hicknesser). So if I understand you correctly marcos, I will need to flatten one face first (winding sticks, straight edge, plane, elbow grease), then I can just run the board through the machine until thicknessed, thus halving my workload. Then finishing off with removing the blade marks.

 

[marcros]

yes.

You may get away with taking off the worst of the high spots (and any cupping/twist/bow) and running it through the thicknesser, flipping it etc. I have done so before, but have never tried it with boards worse than "pretty good" to start with. I get away with it on box lids etc, i would be reluctant to do it for long pieces, or bad boards. As long as the board is straight and sits on the beds evenly, you can skim the cup off the crown off the top.

 

[mailee]

I used to suffer with snipe when I had a smaller thicknesser and it seems to be common on the smaller cheaper machines. I now have a much larger dedicated thicknesser 16" and never get snipe any more. When using the smaller one I used to allow a couple of inches on the end of each board knowing the snipe would be cut off. HTH. :wink: