Butt hinges a jig needed?

[devonwoody]

I recently had trouble fitting hinges to a box, this has happened before on previous boxes.

I follow and listen to all advice fitting this set up but over the years I get failures.

My problem occurs I think when I predrill the screws holes.

My hand drill weighs 5 kgs? the tiny bit is uncontrollable and sometimes break when drilling into the timber marked spots, (even if marked or punched to what should be dead centre) this means that the hinge is pulled out of its correct alignment when screw is tightened at fitting of hinge.

I also have a lightweight electric screwdriver which accepts a chuck but the quality is very poor and has play when winding the drill bit in, so that's not much better.

Mass production by manufacturers of commercial jewellery boxes seem to be able to turn out perfectly fitting lids with butt hinges so they must have a jig to fit their hinges, any ideas how they go about it?

 

[marcros]

What about a bradawl- on your boxes the screws can't be big. Then use a steel screw to pre thread the hole before putting in the brass one. Or superglue the hinge on and drill afterwards

 

[Jojo]

Hi
They do drill for hinges they have an outer sleve that is spring loaded and fits the hole in the hinge with a drill bit in the centre to bore the hole. I think you will find then at most tool stockists.

John

 

[AndyT]

Your hand drill sounds like a big heavy one. Small pilot holes are easier with a little 'eggbeater' drill, if you don't have a nice light electric one. I use a long slender awl to deeply mark the centres of hinge holes, followed by a lip and spur drill which keeps on the mark much better than an ordinary jobber.

But for very small hinges such as on your box I would not use a drill at all, just the awl.

 

[Richard T]

Clamp the hinge dead right and drill/awl through the hinge holes?

Agree with Andy that a light egg beater would be much more controllable.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

+1. For those small stubby screws I use either a bradawl or even a thinner scratch awl type tool to really push into the wood. I also clamp the hinge into the mortice so I know the holes are perfectly aligned. I must say I've seen those spring loaded sleeved drills and they look like the perfect solution. Ive never tried one but I mean to get one of those.

Wil the stock fit under your drill press? If so...providing the drill seats exactly in the dimple created by the bradawl then it will drill a perfectly straight and centred hole.

Lastly, I recently bought some Colt drills.....Mother Mary...what a difference. Ive always just used jobbing regular drill bits, never deliberately set out to buy "expensive" bits. The difference in performance defies belief so I would allocate 30 or £40 of indulgence money for a set of decent german drill bits with a brad point.

 

[devonwoody]

These replies are all good and valid.
However with brass screws I find the pilot whole must be accurate.

So you need a small drill bit suitable for thread and a large drill bit for shank.

done the small bit first and used the steel screw to make it then suitable for shank, not 100% even this way.

Going to try super glue to attach hinge temporary next time and then put in screws using awl or what have you.

Otherwise they are going to be drop on lids or hinge strapped to back of box. :twisted:

 

[ColeyS1]

Looking at your jewellery box it appears you housed right through. Usually fitting a hinge it butts up against the wood so theres no confusion where the screws go, it just pushes up tight. You need a router jig to route the hinges or a hinge thats exactly the same size as the sides. This is how I do repetitive hinge housings on sashes -

Similar type of thing could be done (without needing too be adjustable) for your hinges. Still have to go a bit gentle chopping out the round corners
Sounds like you need a pillar drill- the jewellery box job alone warrants it !
Sent from my GT-I9300

 

[devonwoody]

Coley, you are correct, I did in this instance take the hinge rebates right across the timber because the thickness of timber is only just over 8mm and I knew I could not chop out the exact hinge width, the remaining timber to be left on box and lid was to minute to stand such treatment.

 

[ColeyS1]

Just a thought, are you using ordinary twist bits or bradpoint bits ? Once you push the point of the bradpoint in, its much more likely to stay where its put instead of wiggling off somewhere .

Sent from my GT-I9300

 

[custard]

Hi
They do drill for hinges they have an outer sleve that is spring loaded and fits the hole in the hinge with a drill bit in the centre to bore the hole. I think you will find then at most tool stockists.

John

These pretty much solve the problem, I've used them and they're spot on. However I've only ever seen them in 6 and 8 screw sizes, where as for boxes you're probably looking at size 4 or even a 3.

 

[devonwoody]

Just a thought, are you using ordinary twist bits or bradpoint bits ? Once you push the point of the bradpoint in, its much more likely to stay where its put instead of wiggling off somewhere .

Sent from my GT-I9300

Can you get bradpoints bits for size 2 or 4 screws?

(I was using and always have only twist bits for those small sizes.)

 

[ColeyS1]

Ah, that might be pushing it smallest I've got in my set is 3mm so possibly not, sorry

Sent from my GT-I9300

 

[Phil Pascoe]

These replies are all good and valid.
However with brass screws I find the pilot whole must be accurate.

So you need a small drill bit suitable for thread and a large drill bit for shank.

done the small bit first and used the steel screw to make it then suitable for shank, not 100% even this way.

Going to try super glue to attach hinge temporary next time and then put in screws using awl or what have you.

Otherwise they are going to be drop on lids or hinge strapped to back of box. :twisted:

Why "temporary"? As long as it's in the right place, glue it then screw it - there's no need to move it.

 

[Alex]

I agree with Phil. Glue or use double side tape to position and then drill for screws. Also don't worry about finding tiny fiddly drill bits just cut a panel pin with side cutters, stick in the drill and use pointy side, shall not run.

 

[devonwoody]

Thanks, that sounds interesting.

 

[NLH]

Ok, chop the hinge out, place the hinge in the mortise, use a 'snappy centre finder' drill bit to pilot the screw holes

If your using brass screws, use a stainless steel screw of the same size to cut the threads into the pilot hole first,

Then remove the stainless screws, rub candle wax onto the brass ones, and install with a screwdriver! Not a drill

 

[Jacob]

Drill stand or pillar drill?

 

[MMUK]

For things like that I have a 12v Li-Ion Worx drill. It weighs pipper all and is perfect for that sort of job. It came from Tradepoint on offer about two years ago - £40 with two batteries.

I've also got a 12v Li-Ion Duratool from CPC which houses my countersink bit. That cost £25 and another £12 for two spare batteries (three in all). It's a little heavier than the Worx but does the job.

The only downside with these is the long charge time, 3hrs or so, but considering the light use it works fine for me.

 

[devonwoody]

I suppose if I was fitting hinges regularly instead of perhaps a couple of times a year, fitting would come naturally. I do use a lightweight 12 volt battery drill but have to put in a chuck to hold bits. I must invest in a better quality chuck me thinks. (I've got a cheapo)