Brace Auger Angle Guide Suggestion

[xy mosian]

Hello all,
I am a hobby woodworker these days, for enjoyment, and occasional pint. In recent years I have made the odd chair, and stool, in the Windsor style.

No matter how I try there is always a leg which is not quite at the correct angle. This guide is an attempt to help with said problem.

I hope you can see that if the distance between the vertical surface, of the guide, and the hole centre is repeated so will the angle of the hole. There is a notch, saw cut, at the bottom of the vertical surface and this is repeated at the back. This is for alignment with the 'sight line'. Platform height will allow the auger to be used vertically if needed.
In use set the angle of the auger, by any method, slide guide into contact and clamp down. Measure the distance between the hole centre and the vertical surface. For other holes of the same angle mark that distance, along the 'siight line', from the hole centre, clamp the guide down and drill the required hole. There is clearly a limit to the hole depth possible, but a correct angle of start is assured.

The elastic band is merely to hold the auger in place for the 'photo.

Comments please,
xy.

 

[AndyT]

I think that's a very clever solution to the problem.

 

[xy mosian]

Thanks Andy.
Sadly the length of the twisted bit, of the auger, varies with diameter. Otherwise it would be more versatile.

xy

 

[DTR]

Simple but very clever, thanks for posting =D>

 

[xy mosian]

Simple but very clever, thanks for posting =D>

Thanks for that.
I have just realised a smaller device would work well with spade/speed/flat/paddle bits. Useful for drilling peg holes in bench tops perhaps.
xy

 

[Droogs]

Only problem I'd have is that my augers are all old and have tapered shafts above the fluting of the bit. Using your guide would mean the angle of attack would change as I drilled. I use guide blocks that are drilled to size on an over sized true cuboid on a drill press and then have the sides bevelled on the table saw or CSMS. The bit then sits true to the angle all the way down

 

[xy mosian]

Hi Droogs,
As I understand it you essentially have a block with an angled end which has a large v-groove cut along it. Is that right?
I can see a couple of advantages to that, longer giuded holes available and useable with a number of auger diameters for starters.
Do you have any problems with swarf clearance?
Overall a great solution, and next to no setting up required.
xy