Box joint jig sketchup plans free of charge

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cleavages":tugjqrv2 said:
Would it be possible to get a copy of the sketch up plans as well? I am new to box joints and this looks like an awesome way to cut them!!

The video makes it look very easy.

New to the board, so I cannot PM.

[email protected]

Email sent buddy.
 
Graham Orm":29ch65ci said:
cleavages":29ch65ci said:
Would it be possible to get a copy of the sketch up plans as well? I am new to box joints and this looks like an awesome way to cut them!!

The video makes it look very easy.

New to the board, so I cannot PM.

[email protected]

Email sent buddy.

Appreciate it Sir. Hopefully I can build it this weekend and try the hinged joint. I think it may work well for a dog door.
 
cleavages":2e127mm2 said:
Graham Orm":2e127mm2 said:
cleavages":2e127mm2 said:
Would it be possible to get a copy of the sketch up plans as well? I am new to box joints and this looks like an awesome way to cut them!!

The video makes it look very easy.

New to the board, so I cannot PM.

[email protected]

Email sent buddy.

Appreciate it Sir. Hopefully I can build it this weekend and try the hinged joint. I think it may work well for a dog door.

Pictures please. :mrgreen:
 
Here's a status update on my jig build:
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The basic function is working now, turn the handle and it advances 1.5mm. I still need to make a handle, the runners, front fence and also the front carriage plate to keep the pieces in place, and a stop ofcourse. Base is 12mm birch plywood and the rest is a combo of 18mm and 12mm plywood and some pieces of birch. I'll cut the threaded rod to size later.
 
Graham Orm":sxcrj09p said:
Bigbud78":sxcrj09p said:
Is M10 the best to use for this due to thread pitch ? I've got some M8 already :/

I'm not sure that it's critical to be honest.

I'll try it with the M8 then, are you planning on using this with a TS or router table ? I want to start doing some box's and was planning on using the TS but would the router table be a better bet ? I was worried I'd get more break out on the router

Jim
 
Bigbud78":1f7mmzer said:
Graham Orm":1f7mmzer said:
Bigbud78":1f7mmzer said:
Is M10 the best to use for this due to thread pitch ? I've got some M8 already :/

I'm not sure that it's critical to be honest.

I'll try it with the M8 then, are you planning on using this with a TS or router table ? I want to start doing some box's and was planning on using the TS but would the router table be a better bet ? I was worried I'd get more break out on the router

Jim

Either is good. The router will cause tear-out front and back, so you'll need a sacrificial backer board either side of your work pieces back and front. The table saw will take longer to do the cuts but for my money will be better.

If you go back a page in the thread Dennis says that M10 gives 1.5mm per turn so with the average saw blade 3mm thick that should be easy to manage. The other option is to put a second flat on the wheel directly opposite to the first. This will allow half turn increments.
 
The standard pitch on an M8 is 1.25mm which is why I thought the M10 would be better, might as well do it right first time :D Will order the M10 bar :)
 
Bigbud78":2cdpvwbx said:
The standard pitch on an M8 is 1.25mm which is why I thought the M10 would be better, might as well do it right first time :D Will order the M10 bar :)

You'll probably find some at B&Q :wink:
 
Threaded rods are easy to come by, just remember to buy enough nuts & washers for them, locking nuts might be a good idea too so you don't have to use two nuts to lock them in place.

I fitted runners and varnished the jig over the weekend but I was otherwise occupied with yard work, stapled some lumber amongst other things. Need to get some parts for the clamping portion and then it ought to be ready.
 
For anyone who's not noticed, Graham has kindly provided a link to the plans from the youtube video that he mentioned in the first post of this thread :wink:

Thanks Graham!

Chris
 
Put it together finally and did some test cuts but I got gappy joints, so it would seem that despite the 1.5mm pitch and 3mm blade things are out of spec enough. This can be avoided I think by removing the cam and using quarter and half turns, but that makes it kinda complicated. I believe I now see the advantage in Matthias Wandels gear driven jig, thanks to customizable gear ratios you can overcome the issue of thread pitch having to equal very precisely an even fraction of the blade kerf.

I'll continue working on this jig and see if another blade would work, I think this has some wobble to it and that might be the culprit.
 
DennisCA":2h99dxwk said:
Put it together finally and did some test cuts but I got gappy joints, so it would seem that despite the 1.5mm pitch and 3mm blade things are out of spec enough. This can be avoided I think by removing the cam and using quarter and half turns, but that makes it kinda complicated. I believe I now see the advantage in Matthias Wandels gear driven jig, thanks to customizable gear ratios you can overcome the issue of thread pitch having to equal very precisely an even fraction of the blade kerf.

I'll continue working on this jig and see if another blade would work, I think this has some wobble to it and that might be the culprit.

Idea. Set the work-piece against the blade with the spindle locked in position on the flat spot of the cam. Mark the position of the blade on the work piece, turn the spindle until the work piece has moved by one blade thickness, then mark the cam wheel and create a small flat where your mark is. A bit trial and error but it will probably work.
 
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