Blooming Blum Hinges

[jedmc571]

Hello Everyone !

Having a nightmare at the mo with a coupe of doors on a home made tv cabinet. I've drilled my 35mm holes 5mm from the edge of the door and fitted that side no problem, but when it comes to getting the carcass side done I just can't seem to get it right. I figured I would just line up the door edges with the carcass with a 2mm washer as a spacer, open up the hinge fully and mark where it lies, but when I put it together, its all out ?
The carcass is definitely square in all planes and lay on it's back the doors line up perfect, but when it's back on it's legs, they both drop considerably ? any ideas ? it's all 18mm MDF, I'm thinking it's a weighy issue with the door ? but that's the only thing I can think of.
Any help appreciated before I put that 35mm bit in my forehead

 

[Scrit]

Hi Jed

Assuming that this is an overlayed door and that the door is 18mm thick and you are using Blum Clip hinges (Modul are about the same) the distance from the edge to the hole should be in the order of 3 to 6mm, as it says here (on page 2), so it sounds as though your door is drilled OK. On a frameless carcass (o.e. one that looks like a "standard" kitchen carcass) the hinge mounting plate line is 37mm in from the edge and the holes are 32mm apart vertically (16mm above/below the hinge centre lines). I'd strike that 37mm line using a combination square for consistency.

Or am I barking up the wrong tree, here?

Scrit

 

[johnelliott]

If the fit is OK when the cabinet is lying on its back, but not OK when it's staqnding up it sounds as if the cabinet itself is flexing, and that the feet need to be adjusted. I am finding your description of the problem a little difficult to folow, though

Jophn

 

[Steve Maskery]

I'm with John here. I bet that if you measure your carcase when it is standing in situ, it won't be square (I'm taking it for granted that your doors themselves are square!). MDF carcases, especially large ones, are not very rigid at all, and will simply follow the floor, especially if they house something heavy like a TV. So make sure that you have the thing levelled out properly. It doesn't take much for the doors to be out by miles. 1mm at the hinge edge becomes an inch at the leading edge. DAMHIKT.

For wardrobes I use the levellers from Hafele. They are adjustable in situ with a long Allen key through the floor of the carcase. Otherwise just shim the thing up with small wedges.

 

[jedmc571]

Thanks for the quick response, And I'm privileged to have such experienced people on hand to answer ( unlike the screwfix forum, which seems to attract the childish and patronizing all at the same time )

Anyway, Got up at 3 this morning after a nightmare about "Concealed Hinges" went in to the garage and pulled the thing apart and re-constructed it in the dining room. I've measured corner to corner and it's the same, checked the doors, they're fine, I added a strip to the front of the cabinet which splits the door to stop any sag, and it now seems fine.

However........... I'm using the screws in the hinge package (1/2"x6) and they get very little bite, and wasn't aware that some have stripped the carcass thread, any suggestions ?

Jed[/quote]

 

[Steve Maskery]

Glad it's sorted.

some have stripped the carcass thread, any suggestions ?

Do you have a plug cutter? If so, drill out the hole to 6mm and cut a 6mm plug. That way you will have face-grain to screw into, rather than plugging it with a dowel which will give you only end-grain.

 

[Colin C]

I agree with Steve as I also use this way to plug screw holes all the time

 

[Rob Lee]

However........... I'm using the screws in the hinge package (1/2"x6) and they get very little bite, and wasn't aware that some have stripped the carcass thread, any suggestions ?

Jed

Hi -

You may also want to consider using "system" screws, or "euro" screws (I'm sure there some different name on your side of the pond)... they bear loads well, and can be a good choice for replacing stripped screws, as they use a 5mm pre-drill....

Look like these, and are available in a number of lengths..

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=42000&cat=3,41306,41315

Cheers -

Rob

 

[Scrit]

You may also want to consider using "system" screws, or "euro" screws (I'm sure there some different name on your side of the pond)... they bear loads well, and can be a good choice for replacing stripped screws, as they use a 5mm pre-drill....

Rob, that's one thing where we do use the same name..... for a change!

Scrit

 

[jedmc571]

Hello again,

I like the idea of cutting plugs for the screws, I'm also going to take the other advice about using the "euroscrew" which I bought from screwfix today, I will attempt to re-hang tomorrow.
Spent all day filling ,sanding a priming, it seems so laborious but you have to put the effort in.
Incidentally, a tip I was given by a fitter when I was in the RAF some years ago is to use Primer/Undercoat (in the same tin) to coat MDF, gave it 2 coats today and looks fantastic, and only £4 a tin from B&Q, £17 for MDF primer :shock:

Cheers

Jed