BLO/CA Pen Finishing - My Way - Critique

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CraigyCraigo

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Hi All,

Finished a Pen and Pencil set in Pink Ivory at the weekend, as the other half wanted them for Valentines day. (I'll post some pic's tonight)

So as i'm a little rusty (hadn't used the lathe for around a year until about 2 weeks ago), the old arguement of what finish to use cropped up. I decided to give the BLO/CA a go as i'd never done it before and wanted a real shine on the pen that would hopefully last (I nicknamed her 'magee' (for magpie) for a reason!!!). Did a few hours of youtube and forum research and there is obviously alot of different methods out there......... so....... here's my take on it, hopefully taking the good and bad bits into account:- (i'm happy with how it 'turned' out (no pun intended ;-) ) it gave it a lovely deep shine

1. Finish the Pen
2. Sand with 150g, 240g, 320g, 400g - With the lathe on and with the grain afterwards with the lathe off (sequentially) - Wiping between grades
3. Burnish the pen in its own shavings
4. Sand with 1500g W&D - With the lathe on and with the grain afterwards with the lathe off
5. Sand through all the MicroMesh grades - With the lathe on and with the grain afterwards with the lathe off (sequentially) - Wiping between grades
6. Small ammount of BLO worked quickly into the blank
7. 3 coats of BLO and CA worked quickly into the blank (BLO onto the paper first, then a small puddle of CA - Using WoodCare CA) - Going to take this upto 10/20 coats on more expensive pens - this is 'friction cured' by half wrapping the paper around it whilst spinning at 1600rpm-1800rpm until you can feel the heat and it makes your eyes water lol
8. 1 coat of CA neat worked quickly into the blank - this is 'friction cured' by half wrapping the paper around it whilst spinning at 1600rpm-1800rpm
9. Sand through all the last 5 MicroMesh grades (think its 3200MM to 12000MM) - With the lathe on and with the grain afterwards with the lathe off (sequentially) - Wiping between grades
10. Apply a layer of bar wax and polish with max lathe speed.
11. Assemble Pen.

If anyone has any comments on this please let me know - wanting to perfect this so i can concentrate on the turning aspect and this becomes second nature!

My four key questions regarding the above are:-

5. I'll probably just stick with 1500g W&D instead of the MicroMesh for any pens i make to sell - Thoughts?
7. Is it worth knocking it back between coats with say 1500g W&D?
9. Is it worth investing in some Plastic Polish instead of using micromesh (maybe cheaper aswell)
9.Is it worth going through all the micromeshes, not just the last 5 grades?

Thanks for any advice in adavce all

Regards

Craig
 
there are so many ways to apply CA/BLO sometimes it’s just a matter of finding what works for you and sticking to it!! (pun intended)
your method seems a little long winded for my taste
I would have
1.sand from 240 to 600 (no need to stop each grit and sand with grain)
2.apply 3/4 coats of CA/BLO - as you do BLO first then a little puddle of CA
3. remove from lathe and buff using two types of mop/compounds
4. job done- apply ren wax/MC wax if you wish

I have found that there is no difference in quality/durability between 4 coats or 20 coats all you are doing by applying more coats is wasting money and time and adding thickness to the pen.
 
Hutzul":1c04dq9c said:
No offence guys, but what is CA/BLO ; ren wax/MC wax , please ?

I guess that W&D is Wet and Dry, CA is cyanocrylic (superglue?)

I cannot find the phone number for Bletchley Park so would some kind soul please decipher above, so that I can sleep tonight please?

Cheers

ps: these links might help others

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcgOf4siqc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFB4ipli6bw

CA- correct, superglue
BLO- Boiled Linseed Oil
ren wax- Rennaisance Wax http://www.picreator.co.uk/articles/3_r ... ce_wax.htm (manufacturer)
MC- Microcrystalline wax, of which ren wax is one.

HTH
Mark
 
As Requested, a complete list of acronyms:-

BLO = Boiled Linseed Oil
CA = Cyanocrylic (Superglue)
W&D = Wet and Dry
MM = Micromesh

As for the finishes 'cornucopia' stated, i'm not sure, haven't googled it yet.

cornucopia - thanks for the advise, i'll give it ago. Could you post links to the polishes you mention please???
 
marcros":2qanvgz4 said:
Hutzul":2qanvgz4 said:
No offence guys, but what is CA/BLO ; ren wax/MC wax , please ?

I guess that W&D is Wet and Dry, CA is cyanocrylic (superglue?)

I cannot find the phone number for Bletchley Park so would some kind soul please decipher above, so that I can sleep tonight please?

Cheers

ps: these links might help others

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcgOf4siqc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFB4ipli6bw

CA- correct, superglue
BLO- Boiled Linseed Oil
ren wax- Rennaisance Wax http://www.picreator.co.uk/articles/3_r ... ce_wax.htm (manufacturer)
MC- Microcrystalline wax, of which ren wax is one.

HTH
Mark

Beat me to it, Thanks Mark!!!
 
is it really needed though to be that thorough with the finishing process? Sounds like a lot of work.

Not saying my method is correct either but this is all I do...

1. sand down to 400 grit
2. use abronet pads 500, then 800, then 1200, then 2000, then 4000
3. use a sanding sealer
4. friction polish
5. carnabra wax stick.

next!

2012-08-15%252013.14.13.jpg
 
Your both probably right!!! Keep it simple....... i probably took alot more care as it was for the othe half!!! was nice though sanding hardwood through to 12000mm.... the finish was amasing!

i went with the BLO/CA as it seems to be the new 'big' thing in the pen finishing world..... unfortunatly don't have many finishes lying around to try, other wise might of tried something different!

i think also i make it sound long winded..... didn't take long really once i had my system going!
 
CA/BLO has been around a long while- shellac is quick but i dont like how quickly it also wears off, some do like the fact it dulls and changes quickly as the wood feels more natural and quickly gains a patina

the hadrest wearing finish i've ever found is woodoc 20 but its tricky to apply to small items.

the best (hardest wearing) material i've vere found is polymer clay- amazing stuff
 
marcros":kqjdkzb5 said:
Hutzul":kqjdkzb5 said:
No offence guys, but what is CA/BLO ; ren wax/MC wax , please ?

I guess that W&D is Wet and Dry, CA is cyanocrylic (superglue?)

I cannot find the phone number for Bletchley Park so would some kind soul please decipher above, so that I can sleep tonight please?

Cheers

ps: these links might help others

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcgOf4siqc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFB4ipli6bw

CA- correct, superglue
BLO- Boiled Linseed Oil
ren wax- Rennaisance Wax http://www.picreator.co.uk/articles/3_r ... ce_wax.htm (manufacturer)
MC- Microcrystalline wax, of which ren wax is one.

HTH
Mark

Many thanks Mark. (What's HTH above your name please?) :roll:
 
no need to go up to 10 coats of CA 3 is enough, any-more and it may crack or glaze in time
 
I'm always drawn between the shiny hard finish of boiled linseed oil + CAN and a friction polish finish... I like the shine of the BLO + CA but prefer the feel of shellac or nothing at all.

Sometimes BLO + CA is a bit plastic feeling/looking.
 
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