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Best way to make table top

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gc

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Im going to make a dressing table for our daughter using redwood as it will be getting painted. The table top will be approx (sizes to be confirmed) 450mm x 600mm made from 12mm boards. I can get boards either 95mm or 145mm wide.
My question is would it be best making it with 3 x 145mm boards so less joints or 5 x 95mm or is it 50/50? (will biscuit joint the boards).

Cheers
 

adidat

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Go with the smaller sections as thin redwood stock will move like a banana, if you going to paint it, why not use mdf and lip it with redwood?

Adidat
 

gc

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That had been my initial thought but thought that would have been a bit more hastle to do. I need to get it made and painted for christmas and already we seem to have plans every weekend in Nov and a couple in Dec so going to be a bit of push time wise.

Another though i had was to just use mdf for the top and run the router profile im going to use round that but i wasnt sure how i would get a nice finish on the mdf so it was nice and smooth, any suggestions?

This is profile going to use
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-thumb-mould-router-cutter-prod806714/
 

wcndave

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Lipping seems like less hassle than jointing and joining 5 pieces and then getting that all exactly flat and flush ;-)
 

devonwoody

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I would go to someone like MFI ok they've gone, try Hardys or the low cost flat pack end perhaps even B & Q and purchase a replacement bedroom top for an imaginary cabinet you bought from them years ago say.

I did for three nightstands 6 years ago, and they have a simulated timber appearance and will stand little girls wear and tear.
 

Chems

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I happen to know that the Glasgow Glasgow Build Center stocks the pine fixboard stuff which is nice to work with.

But if your painting it, might as well use MR-MDF all over, you'll get a much nicer finish and the mouldings will look just as good in it as real wood.
 

gc

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Thanks Chems, will have a look at the fixboard.

If using mr-mdf do you still need to seal the edges with pva/water mix or is this not needed?
 

Chems

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Its needs much less prep but an undercoat or pva/water mix all over helps. There are some pro MDF painters around these parts, I've only ever painted MR-MDF and MDF about 3 times and I sealed it with a PVA mix and then painted it and it came out fine.

I'd avoid painting redwood or pine if you can not because you can't get decent results but because its such a lot of extra work over a sheet good.
 

mailee

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Personally I would go for the MDF and lip the edge and then rout the profile into the Redwood. That way you would't have to worry about sealing the edge and the face will paint up much easier anyway. JMO
 
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