Best Method For Polishing Metal

[G S Haydon]

Just to save me too much time experimenting on alternative methods what would you guys do to polish up the back and saw plate on one of these http://www.spear-and-jackson.com/produc ... tenon-saws ? They are quite rough a feel like they will need some reasonable elbow grease.

Note: I respect the fact this may not be essential and may be viewed as a waste of time by some, that said I do want to improve the feel and look of the tool to suit my needs.

Thanks in advance!

 

[AndyT]

If you just want to improve a roughly finished new tool, I would suggest some fine wet and dry round a cork block with a squirt of WD40. No need to seek out anything exotic.

 

[Cheshirechappie]

The new saws I've had were all slathered in a sort of gloopy varnish - not thick, but after using the saw a bit, sort of 'sticky'. Hammerite thinners took it off quite easily.

To get a real, chrome-like polish on the steel, the only way is to start with a medium grade of wet-and-dry (say, about 320) and work steadily through the grades until you've got the smoothness you want. Sticking pieces to a wooden block can make it easier to hold (and keep your fingers away from sawteeth), and it would mean losing the printed logo. A gleaming polish could then be applied with Solvol Autosol or similar.

I suspect the brass back is quite nicely finished as is. Just a rub with autosol should be enough to dazzle the most cynical workshop visitor.

Of course, you'd then have to throw away that nasty modern handle and fit a lovely comfortable, curvy 19th century style one....oiled walnut should do nicely....

 

[matthewwh]

Not much to add except for Sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner) is apparently the best stuff for removing lacquer. A polished saw plate isn't just about looks, it also serves to make the plate function as a mirror for dividing angles and giving a visual reference for plumb.

There is a limit though, beyond a certain point the saw becomes prone to corroding by pitting rather than an easily removed powdery surface rust. Just enough to see what's going on and no more. Protect it with a light oiling (or maybe a coat of lacquer :shock: ) and you're good to go!

 

[MIGNAL]

I have the exact same saw, bought 4 or 5 years ago. The handle is Beech and is well worth reshaping.



I'm fairly certain it came set and sharpened as universal teeth. I can't quite remember but I think the set to the teeth was a little odd - two consecutive teeth bent to the left (or the right) - some strange configuration. It worked OK but I re set and sharpened mine to a dedicated cross cut. Might be worth doing when yours needs to be sharpened. It's a very good saw once it's been worked on.
Heavy brass back, hardwood Beech handle and a piece of saw steel. All the ingredients are there!

 

[G S Haydon]

Thanks all, very similar thoughts to mine, Mignal, they look good! On brief inspection teeth seemed to be normal cross cut.

 

[pedder]

Hi,

I don't know what the best method is, but I can tell you how we do this:

We shape with a file and than sand from 120-1200 (don't skip a grit).
Than steelwhool 0000 and autosol (other polishes will do, but autosol
doesn't smell that bad as the others) applied with an old sweatshirt.

Cheers
Pedder

 

[bugbear]

I do have a related tip;

http://web.archive.org/web/200910271345 ... eeth_guard

BugBear

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Hi,

I don't know what the best method is, but I can tell you how we do this:

We shape with a file and than sand from 120-1200 (don't skip a grit).
Than steelwhool 0000 and autosol (other polishes will do, but autosol
doesn't smell that bad as the others) applied with an old sweatshirt.

Cheers
Pedder

You just can't resist spoiling things for us mere mortals, can you? :lol:

 

[MIGNAL]

Thanks all, very similar thoughts to mine, Mignal, they look good! On brief inspection teeth seemed to be normal cross cut.

Perhaps they offer different configurations or they have changed the way they set these up. Mine was definitely a strange tooth configuration because I remember having to bend some teeth to the opposite side. I was a little concerned it might fatigue the metal but it all worked out fine.
Which just leaves you to reshape the handle. Probably more important than polishing the metal given that it feels better and is more comfortable to the hand. Of course you can polish the metal as well if you feel inclined.

 

[Jacob]

..... A polished saw plate isn't just about looks, it also serves to make the plate function as a mirror for dividing angles and giving a visual reference for plumb.

Sorry to be a party pooper but this is another little woodwork myth! It doesn't work, which presumably is why nobody ever bothered to polish their saws in the old days.

 

[Racers]

Not much to add except for Sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner) is apparently the best stuff for removing lacquer. A polished saw plate isn't just about looks, it also serves to make the plate function as a mirror for dividing angles and giving a visual reference for plumb.

There is a limit though, beyond a certain point the saw becomes prone to corroding by pitting rather than an easily removed powdery surface rust. Just enough to see what's going on and no more. Protect it with a light oiling (or maybe a coat of lacquer :shock: ) and you're good to go!

The reflection method works very well have a look here, from 14:45 http://video.pbs.org/video/2365021524/

Pete

 

[Jacob]

Not much to add except for Sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner) is apparently the best stuff for removing lacquer. A polished saw plate isn't just about looks, it also serves to make the plate function as a mirror for dividing angles and giving a visual reference for plumb.

There is a limit though, beyond a certain point the saw becomes prone to corroding by pitting rather than an easily removed powdery surface rust. Just enough to see what's going on and no more. Protect it with a light oiling (or maybe a coat of lacquer :shock: ) and you're good to go!

The reflection method works very well have a look here, from 14:45 http://video.pbs.org/video/2365021524/

Pete

Have you tried it yourself?

 

[Racers]

Same question, roles reversed.

Pete

 

[G S Haydon]

Thanks all. Mignal, the handle is due for a reshape. I have a nice old, heavily used S&J that I will be trying to emulate. The polishing is more a looks/vanity issue really, if it aids my working then that's a plus.

Pedder, tool making of the highest order . I love the avatar as well!

 

[bugbear]

We've had the reflection "debate" - it would be tedious and repetitive to have it again.

spear-jackson-s-spearior-52-t71410.html

BugBear

 

[Jacob]

Same question, roles reversed.

Pete

Yes I've had a go. It's possible to get a straight looking reflection with the saw turned at various odd angles, but from one view point. Move your head and no longer straight. But if the saw is exactly perpendicular, move your head and it stays a straight line reflection. So the theory does actually work. But in practice you can't saw whilst craning your neck in various directions, and look at the line simultaneously.
Try it and you will see.
The trouble with the media circus performers is that they have to come up with good ideas on a regular basis. They only have to sound good and make a bit of sense as there is a fair chance nobody will test them. Or if they do they'll blame themselves for not getting it right. Then these duff ideas bob about for years and never go away!
The other part of this "good idea" is a mirror finish. This too is nonsense as you can get a reflection on any old saw (black and rusty even) as long as the surface has been buffed up a bit with use.

 

[Graham Orm]

I've never used the reflection idea, it seems extremely dodgy, how hard is it to put a square across?

 

[pedder]

the reflection idea only works with a square across. If the reflection gives a straight line while the saw is set perpendicular to the face, the cut will be perpendicular to the top.

To use this effect, no one needs to polish the blade to a high level, as Jacob has shown.
Our saw blades come high polished and we never found a reason to blunt the shine.

Cheers
Pedder

 

[Graham Orm]

the reflection idea only works with a square across. If the reflection gives a straight line while the saw is set perpendicular to the face, the cut will be perpendicular to the top.

To use this effect, no one needs to polish the blade to a high level, as Jacob has shown.
Our saw blades come high polished and we never found a reason to blunt the shine.

Cheers
Pedder

I like shiny