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Bending Wood with glued Lamination

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tomthumbtom8

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Ok so this week I'm picking up some ELM 3 x 2 stock for bent lamination ( Coffee Table Legs)

I wood like to know some key factors.

I normally resaw to a thickness of around 2.5 to 3mm is this a good thickness to work with ?

I've see a video on this subject where the person just glued his resaw wood with out planning the wood, I've always put it in to the thicknesser to clean it up before gluing.

Am I doing this wrong advice please
 

worn thumbs

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No need to saw to that kind of thickness unless your bend radius is very tight.With good grain conditions you can normally expect to bend to a radius of about 50 times the laminate thickness.Planing isn't essential if the saw gives a decent finish but becomes necessary if the saw leaves a rough or ridged surface.Both cutting thinner than necessary and the act of planing will reduce the amount of wood you have to work with.Have a play with some offcuts.
 

tomthumbtom8

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Thank you for the reply
the bending radius is only 225 mm and only about 80 degree so I will try 6mm re-saw first
 

woodbloke66

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tomthumbtom8":2bjx53hw said:
Ok so this week I'm picking up some ELM 3 x 2 stock for bent lamination ( Coffee Table Legs)

I wood like to know some key factors.

I normally resaw to a thickness of around 2.5 to 3mm is this a good thickness to work with ?

I've see a video on this subject where the person just glued his resaw wood with out planning the wood, I've always put it in to the thicknesser to clean it up before gluing.

Am I doing this wrong advice please
IMO 2.5>3mm is ample to work with for laminating purposes. Normal commercial veneer sold for the same sort of work is 2mm thick, but if you try and put that thin sawn stuff through the thicknesser, it's liable get chewed up. Much better to put it through drum sander as this will then result in thin, smooth veneers and you ought to end up with a consistently thick laminate when they're all glued together - Rob
 
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