Bedroom Mirror frame - WIP

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RogerM

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My daughter recently dropped a not so subtle hint that she was looking for a bedroom mirror about 4ft x 2ft to match her blanket box and that she was shocked to see that they were around the £300 - £400 mark, and that would be without any decorative carving which stuffed the price up even more.

As we were going to stay with her in London only 2 weeks later there was no time to lose. I started off with carving some oak leaves. These were identical to those on my bookcase as I knew I could do them - no time for failures if attempting something new.

As before, I traced the design on to some 20mm oak and routed out around the design to a depth of 14mm, leaving the edges until last to give extra support to the router base plate.

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Then drill out the gaps between the leaves to the same depth and cut away the supporting edge.

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After this the process was exactly the same as used for the bookcase so I'll not repeat it here.

Moving on to the frame, this was made from English Oak, with a 20mm x 70mm section. A recess was cut in two stages, firstly for the mirror, and secondly a shallower but wider one for the 6mm ply backing, on the router table. The ends were mitred by hand using a Nobex picture frame saw as I felt that on small sections this is gives a less aggressive and more controllable cut than using a SCMS. Then cut mortises for loose tenons using my trusty router mortice jig - which is my "poor mans Domino"!

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The frame was assembled on a sheet of MDF, with the mirror resting loosely in place to ensure a square glue up. Two sides were defined using fixed blocks, and the remaining two sides were held in place by fixed blocks and wedges.

DSC07601.JPG


It had been the intention to set the oak leaves in to the top by routing a recess from behind the frame, but there wasn't room to do it that way and still leave sufficient material to retain the structural integrity of the frame, so eventually decided to cut the leaves off their backing using the band saw, leaving just 1mm of "veneer" that could be removed by hand carving afterwards, and also leaving a small oblong tenon which was let in to the middle of the frame.

Finish was 2 coats of Osmo PolyX oil, denibbed with a single pass of worn 120 grit, followed by 3 coats of Liberon Furniture Wax.

Here's the finished article hanging. As this is a rented flat we wanted to minimise drilling of the walls which is why I've used a cord rather than mounting plates on each side. It wasn't possible to get the cord tight enough to stop it stretching to become visible above the top of the frame, so will replace the cord with wire next time we stay. Or if I can find some, get some picture rail hooks and hang it from those.

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Total cost was £56 for the mirror and £26 for materials, which was somewhat better than madam had been quoted elsewhere, so she is well pleased. I enjoyed what turned out to be an enjoyable build and I got a bottle of Bombay Sapphire for my trouble - so we're all happy.
 
Another classy looking project Roger, intriuged by your slip tenon jig do you have do you have advice for making one ? and do you make your own slip tenons ?
 
Thanks for the kind comments guys.

barkwindjammer":2s8rgsq3 said:
Another classy looking project Roger, intriuged by your slip tenon jig do you have do you have advice for making one ? and do you make your own slip tenons ?

This was one of those simple ideas I got from the fine woodworking website. It's simply a piece of laminate flooring screwed to an off cut of 150 x 50 joist. The slot in the top was cut of the router table to be precisely the width of the guide bush on my router. Most of my woodwork is done in 18mm or 20mm oak, so I have made 2 jigs, one with the slot centre at 9mm and the other at 10mm. When cutting loose tenons just screw a stop to the underside to position your work piece, and always place the same side to the joist so that you are registering from the same face. The length of the slot defines the length of mortise. Given that I'm usually mortising 18mm or 20mm material I cut my mortises with a 6mm cutter, and make my own loose tenons by running a length of oak thru the p/t down to 6mm, and then just cut it off to length depending on the depth of the mortise.

For the mirror frame, because I was mortising 45 deg mitres, I simply removed the 90 degree stop and screwed on a new stop at 45 degrees.

Simples! Who needs a domino. (hammer)
 
Very nice Roger. Not much of a one for carving myself, as I'd want to be as good as you are, and it ain't never goinna happen!

Was the mirror bevel ground? Or was it one of the modern cast mirrors, which I am led to believe are available?
I need a bevelled mirror myself, and the price you paid seems well within reason.

Regards
John. :)
 
Benchwayze":3arrnp78 said:
Very nice Roger. Not much of a one for carving myself, as I'd want to be as good as you are, and it ain't never goinna happen!

Was the mirror bevel ground? Or was it one of the modern cast mirrors, which I am led to believe are available?
I need a bevelled mirror myself, and the price you paid seems well within reason.

Regards
John. :)

John - My guess is that it is a cast bevel edged mirror. However, that makes me wonder how they do custom sized mirrors which are only marginally more expensive. For instance, this one in Pilkington Glass at 48" x 24" was from stock, and was £56. However, if I had one custom sized at 49" x 27" (to give a finished size of 53" x 31" with a 2" surround) the price would have been £72. Logic tells me that it is a cheaper and quicker process to grind the bevel than cast it under these circumstances - and the only reason I didn't go down that route was the 7 - 10 working day delay which would not have left me any time to build the frame before our visit.

Don't be intimidated by basic carving. Maybe start off with a few letters or numbers. My daughters initials are LVM - so only straight edges to deal with. A bit of chip carving which is essentially v cuts in a flat surface could be the next move, and only then move on to something in 3D. If you choose something like leaves etc, the shape isn't critical like it would be for (say) a human figure or an animal, and is therefore very forgiving of mistakes. You can start off with whatever chisels you already own, plus a couple of gouges. It makes very little mess so you can even do it indoors when the weather is cold, or on a "workmate" outside in fine weather. Give it a try. It's great fun and costs next to nothing in materials.
 
Thanks Roger.

I'll take on board all you say about carving. (I need a new number plate for my house in any case. I might as well replace the board. I pay enough Council Tax! Almost as bad as running a car these days!)

The mirror I need is going to be a custom size, (A few weeks ago I broke an antique one I had kept for 30 years in bubble wrap!) Sick or what?

I will get myself off to Shard-End Glass and order one. ('Shard End'. An aptly named place in which to run a glass business eh? )


:D
Regards
John
 
Roger, A lovely looking frame and mirror, good to hear your daughter is happy with it.

John

I find Shard End Glass expensive - I use Brownhills Glass instead for smaller bits then a place over in wolverhampton for larger orders.
 
RogerM":3i55jcti said:
Thanks for the kind comments guys.

barkwindjammer":3i55jcti said:
Another classy looking project Roger, intriuged by your slip tenon jig do you have do you have advice for making one ? and do you make your own slip tenons ?

This was one of those simple ideas I got from the fine woodworking website. It's simply a piece of laminate flooring screwed to an off cut of 150 x 50 joist. The slot in the top was cut of the router table to be precisely the width of the guide bush on my router. Most of my woodwork is done in 18mm or 20mm oak, so I have made 2 jigs, one with the slot centre at 9mm and the other at 10mm. When cutting loose tenons just screw a stop to the underside to position your work piece, and always place the same side to the joist so that you are registering from the same face. The length of the slot defines the length of mortise. Given that I'm usually mortising 18mm or 20mm material I cut my mortises with a 6mm cutter, and make my own loose tenons by running a length of oak thru the p/t down to 6mm, and then just cut it off to length depending on the depth of the mortise.

For the mirror frame, because I was mortising 45 deg mitres, I simply removed the 90 degree stop and screwed on a new stop at 45 degrees.

Simples! Who needs a domino. (hammer)

Trend have gone and nicked the idea with their mortise jig. So if you have a spare £170 you won't need to make it for free from scrap.
 
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