Bandsaw BS400 problems

[Jmac80]

Hello all

I seem to have never ending problems with this band saw ever since i bought it little over 1 year ago.

First and still existing is the problem with tensioning the blades i have to crank it up until it won't crank no more to get the blades tensioned and that's even after i got Ian @ tuffsaws to make my blades a few mm shorter.
Next is all the bearing around the guides were super stiff and noisy, Record sent me more and it has fixed it somewhat (the bearing are just rubbish)
Then my bottom door is giving me problems where it doesn't always engage the switch allowing me to start the machine i have cleaned it all etc but it's still troublesome.
And now the worst... While trying to put on a new blade on today to "give the machine another chance" I notice the wheels are out of line when i get it to tesnion the blade teeth are about 1/3rd from front of the top wheel but overlapping the bottom wheel actually sticking of the wheel!
I can't even nudge the blade back a bit to bring the bottom back on because soon as i touch it the blade goes all the way to the back of the wheels (just with a tiny touch) It's like there is no way to get it on the middle of the wheels, It moves very fast from 1 side to the other of the rubber wheel. (hope that makes sense)
I'm also going to send this to Record as i have now had enough of it.

Thanks James

 

[CHJ]

If you gave us a rough indication of your location in your profile there may be a member near you that can take a look and give you some pointers.
Afraid your current IP of central London near Victoria street is hardly relevant for the machines location.

 

[Jmac80]

If you gave us a rough indication of your location in your profile there may be a member near you that can take a look and give you some pointers.
Afraid your current IP of central London near Victoria street is hardly relevant for the machines location.

Hi
I doubt anyone is close to me lol.
North west highlands of Scotland, Further up than Inverness.

 

[CHJ]

Lower Wheel, with blade and drive belt off is there any movement of the lower wheel support shaft, (item 25 in the parts list I think) does it look as though this may have moved from factory settings?

Don't touch 4 adjusting bolts if fixed firmly.

 

[Jmac80]

CHT, No movement at all and item 25 doesn't appear to have moved any but i guess that's what needs properly setup..

 

[CHJ]

CHT, No movement at all and item 25 doesn't appear to have moved any but i guess that's what needs properly setup..

If it is as supplied it is very rarely that this needs adjustment, if you check the distance of the periphery of the lower wheel from the back face of the machine casing (N-S-E-W) are the measurements consistent within a couple of MM?

 

[Jmac80]

Ok looking into the machine at the wheel.
From the point i measured it with a mitutoyo digital vernier i get:

N-70.02mm
W-69.20mm
E-69.93mm
S-66.89mm

Then i rotated the wheel and took a few reading and also making sure i was using the same measurement spot on teh wheel for North & South, It always came back between 2-3mm (close to 3mm on average)

 

[CHJ]

Taking that the rear face is only a sheet metal box then I can't see it getting any better than that with flexing etc.

Next check that the top wheel is, or at least can be adjusted, in the same alignment with similar tolerances.

May need to remove the table to do this.

 

[Jmac80]

Taking that the rear face is only a sheet metal box then I can't see it getting any better than that with flexing etc.

Next check that the top wheel is, or at least can be adjusted, in the same alignment with similar tolerances.

May need to remove the table to do this.

Will have a closer look tomorrow mate, also interested to see what Record say before i go on a major tampering mission.
Cheers for all your help.

 

[woodpig]

It doesn't matter where the blade tracks on the bottom wheel provided you can get the blade tracking where you want it on the top wheel without the blade coming off. If your 400 is anything like my 300 there's no way you'll get the top and bottom wheels co-planar but they don't need to be to get the machine cutting well. You may well need to adjust the bottom wheel though:

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/libr ... _guide.pdf

As a point of interest what size blade are you using and where are you attempting to track it on the top wheel?

 

[woodpig]

My BS300 works far better since following the blade tracking advice in this video, have a look.

http://youtu.be/wGbZqWac0jU

 

[Jmac80]

2 different blades a 1/2" and a 3/4" both give me the same results.
Im trying to put it the teeth of the blade around the centre of the wheel.
Problem is the blades either go to the left or right of the wheel they just wont sit in the centre or near the centre.
I very slowly adjust it and it shoots straight over from left to right, try again very very slowly adjusting it and it gets so far and shoots right over to the left.. it is extremely infuriating lol.

 

[blackrodd]

My BS300 works far better since following the blade tracking advice in this video, have a look.

http://youtu.be/wGbZqWac0jU

He is the man, Rodders

 

[blackrodd]

Are the tyres and blade clean of sap, or dust or debris of any kind?
I suggest you look at mr snodgrass's vid, (The last link) and follow his instructions, If that doesn't work, get Record in.
This bloke is excellent!
Regards Rodders
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWa ... e=youtu.be

 

[woodpig]

Problem is the blades either go to the left or right of the wheel they just wont sit in the centre or near the centre.
I very slowly adjust it and it shoots straight over from left to right, try again very very slowly adjusting it and it gets so far and shoots right over to the left.. it is extremely infuriating lol.

That does sound strange. I can appreciate your frustration.

 

[Alexam]

Hi James, as you know, I have the same machine and my top and bottom wheels are not in line but that is not an issue. May I ask a few questions just to check the things I do when changing blades and every time a blade width is changed, it needs doing. With the blade tension roughly right, which should be almost the same as the indicator, but not totally acurate and without making any changes at all with tension .........................

1. Did you use the Alex Snodgrass method of tuning the blade?

2. Do you back off the side guides and rear thrust bearings both top and bottom each time you tune up?

3. By how much do you move the rear adjustment knob after unlocking it ( in minutes sections 5-10-15) and do you lock it off after each change?

4.Each time you make those changes, do you turn the top wheel by hand and then turn under power?

At the moment I can't see what may have changed since it must have been working well initially. When I started to tune my machine the correct way, it took about 20 mins and still take 10-15 each time I change a blade width.

Please answer the above first of all.

Malcolm

 

[Rhossydd]

I can't see what may have changed since it must have been working well initially.

That's not what the OP said though. He's described having several on going problems since new.

Call RP and get them to sort it out under warranty.

 

[Jmac80]

Hi James, as you know, I have the same machine and my top and bottom wheels are not in line but that is not an issue. May I ask a few questions just to check the things I do when changing blades and every time a blade width is changed, it needs doing. With the blade tension roughly right, which should be almost the same as the indicator, but not totally acurate and without making any changes at all with tension .........................

1. Did you use the Alex Snodgrass method of tuning the blade?

2. Do you back off the side guides and rear thrust bearings both top and bottom each time you tune up?

3. By how much do you move the rear adjustment knob after unlocking it ( in minutes sections 5-10-15) and do you lock it off after each change?

4.Each time you make those changes, do you turn the top wheel by hand and then turn under power?

At the moment I can't see what may have changed since it must have been working well initially. When I started to tune my machine the correct way, it took about 20 mins and still take 10-15 each time I change a blade width.

Please answer the above first of all.

Malcolm

Hi Malcom

1, No i haven't tried his method but i shall check it tomorrow.
2, Yes i back everything off when i change the reset.
3,In minutes not even 5, like i say it just gets to a point then the entire blade shifts to the other side, no happy medium in the middle.
4,i turn the top wheel when i'm setting the blade, and i can set it fairly central BUT i turn on power briefly to test and the blade goes walkies right over to the edge and has even come of the wheel before.

To be honest it's never been great, ongoing issues, if it ain't one thing it's another, vibrating, tension, door not closing correct etc etc... It's £1000 i wish i put towards a Hammer / Felder.

Thanks

 

[n0legs]

It's £1000

That's the only reason you need to phone Record Power.

 

[CHJ]

I suspect there is something not right with the mounting of the upper wheel, allowing way too much uncontrolled free movement and when you say the blade shoots from one edge over to the other it's because the wheel tilts of it's own free will. (Lots of backlash)
Are the wheel bearings correctly installed and no excessive play on the wheel shaft or its mounting.