Bandsaw blade caught a nail! Can I re-set?

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It was my own fault, I assumed the screw in the sleeper I'm ripping was only an inch or two long, but instead of just removing it I ploughed ahead and the 4" nail caught my 1" ripper blade. Only two teeth broken off. The teeth have a large set, in a "left, right, neutral" pattern. I re set them with my handsaw set, but the wood is still wandering wildly in the cut. Any tips on how I can save this blade? I only have it a few weeks.

Re sharpened each tooth with a dremel, and ground away the ragged edge from the broken teeth.

Cheers
 
At first you say it’s a screw then it’s a nail, then you attack it with a dremel. It’s not cutting straight because it’s blunt. And that was not a mistake it was stupid.
 
I am sorry to say it but the blade is toast.


Pete
 
wizard":1tfdeudh said:
At first you say it’s a screw then it’s a nail, then you attack it with a dremel. It’s not cutting straight because it’s blunt. And that was not a mistake it was stupid.
How does it feel going through life without having made a mistake?

Is there a book for this wizzardry......see what I done there?

A genuine question, admitting a mistake deserves a fair, not a snide answer. The guy probably feels bad enough.
 
Having my grammar checked now too! Awesome. What's wrong with touching up a bandsaw blade with a dremel? Tried and tested. What you lack in manners you also lack in knowledge.

New blade ordered, watch out for nails, screws, and sharp comments :O
 
Now you've been using the Dremel, as opposed to a decent file, there's no telling the high teeth from the low teeth, so dump it.
Should you hit "nasties"again, If the teeth are not hardened and therefore ok to file, you could attempt to re juvinate the blade by knocking up, out of scrap, two flat circles,same size as you're bandsaw wheels with a lip under, much like a loco wheel to save the blade falling off, clean any resin away by using a broken hacksaw blade with a handle.
Working between the wooden, "scrap" wheels you can support an area about 8"or 9" long and count the steady file strokes, mimicking the original angles until the shine goes meaning the teeth are now sharp then set to you're best guess.
Worth a £5, or £6 file And you never know, it may just work! Regards Rodders
 
"What you lack in manners you also lack in knowledge"
Manners nil knowledge plenty that i am willing to use to help others. :wink:
 
If you're salvaging timber you could try a bi metal blade, which can handle the odd nail. I've got a Tuffsaws M42 blade in my bandsaw at the moment, never used one before. The kerf is a bit bigger than I'd like and the finish isn't quite as smooth as I've had from some other blades, needs a fair bit of tension too, but it takes a beating like a rented mule.
 
skronk":1t9en6cp said:
wizard":1t9en6cp said:
At first you say it’s a screw then it’s a nail, then you attack it with a dremel. It’s not cutting straight because it’s blunt. And that was not a mistake it was stupid.
How does it feel going through life without having made a mistake?

Is there a book for this wizzardry......see what I done there?

A genuine question, admitting a mistake deserves a fair, not a snide answer. The guy probably feels bad enough.

+1
 
custard":7z0bo45m said:
If you're salvaging timber you could try a bi metal blade, which can handle the odd nail. I've got a Tuffsaws M42 blade in my bandsaw at the moment, never used one before. The kerf is a bit bigger than I'd like and the finish isn't quite as smooth as I've had from some other blades, needs a fair bit of tension too, but it takes a beating like a rented mule.

Cheers custard. I've actually got a bi-metal from Ian, but the resin buildup from my sycamore is unreal, and I have maybe 100 logs to dimension, so I got a 1" 1.3tpi to horse through it so it can start drying ASAP. I'm planking some, but mostly making bowl blanks, and a little firewood! The bandsaw is earning it's keep.
 
I know it's not much help now but i recently bought a 30mm ripper blade for my saw (Jet 18) It's a hell of a blade with 1 tpi. It has hardened teeth which will take abuse, such as the odd nail. The kerf is a little wider than normal but I guess that is the payoff.

It was £20, or thereabouts which I considered very reasonable and one of the Axminster range. Only problem was, it being so wide its a pig of a job to get off to get off as the blade isn't very flexible.

David
 
that is one reason that i dont like using 1" blades on my saw. It will tension them ok, but they are a pig to fit!
 
I think you are right marcos, they are a pig to fit. I would only consider using it again if I had a large stock of wood needing resawing. The effort would definitely be worth the agg. For the small job however not feasible.

Of course the hardened blades are also supposed to handle cutting the odd nail or two so in the OP note it may be wort something to consider if he or others is dealing with lots of salvaged timber, assuming the saw can take a wider blade.

David
 
I for one an very pleased to see an honest mistake being confessed to and some pretty useful band saw advice too, my little 'hobby' model really isn't up to much but just changed the blade and have it cutting parallel to my fence - small beginners victories.

Here's to making, and learning from, many mistakes to come!
 
I don't know if they're anything to write home about in real life, but the Axminster hardened blade (Axcaliber?) are advertised as being able to cut thru screws and nails pretty comfortably.

The cobalt steel teeth shouldn't take a huge amount of damage per screw, but I doubt they are quite so impervious to damage as the video advert makes out.

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
 
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