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alec

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Evening all! I have been considering a band saw and would appreciate advise on a sensible buy to include size, make etc. As a beginner to turning I don`t want to kick the backside out of the cost but advise on a good beginners buy would be appreciated.
 
hi alec
i use the record 250BS bandsaw, and although i have used cheaper bandsaws, you get what you pay for. I wouldn't go back to them now, you need a tool you can rely on.
HTH
 
Mornin' Alec.

Buy the biggest and best you can afford, bearing in mind that once you go above a 8" depth of cut the prices go a bit silly.

I've been using a cheap 8" Record saw for years and it is still going well. Axminster do a floor standing saw for just under £400, again I emphasize the depth of cut as I can guarantee you will ALWAYS want a bigger bandsaw.
 
Again, I would emphasis two things.

For turning blanks, a 6" clear depth of cut is a minimum really.

Don't forget to order two replacement blades as you order the saw.
One for normal use as the one supplied with the saw is really only there to illustrate where a blade is supposed to go as the manuals are usually so poor - it will almost certainly not be up to cutting anything in a useful way.
The second is to reserve for cutting bowl blanks ets as once you cut some blanks with it, the 'curve' will be set into the blade and straight lines will become difficult so best to keep one blade for blanks.
 
I'm with Tam on this.
Buy the biggest and best you can afford. My dream machine would be substantial in construction. Large cast iron wheels.
A large steel table, an acurate fence.
As big a motor as possible, rollerbearing blade guide system.
IMO up to at least 3/4" blade width, more if possible.
A well sighted dust extraction outlet. Mine for example the outlet is at the bottom of the casing where in fact it would be better just under the lower blade guides.
A quick blade tension/retension release is not essential but would be a bonus.
Something resembling a Start Rite 401 E or S.
That's what I have on my Would love to have list.

John. B
 
Hi Alec

I have also got the Record 250BS I've had it for about 18 months and woodent :lol: be without it. They are superb quality for the price (approx £180).
I have also still got all my fingers :D

Malcolm
 
Here comes my usual post on these things::D

..........there are some great bargains to be had second hand. Older machines were often more robust than modern ones, with more cast iron......and are often in really good nick. My 14" machine (which is the minimum I would suggest you go for) cost me £150 and a couple of new bearings.

I would never even consider a new machine.

Mike
 
Well, bigger is better, and every bit as important as horse power is having the proper blade. As a production turner, I have a Laguna 16HD, 4.5 hp, and 16 inch cutting height. It runs a 1 1/4 inch blade with teeth at 3/4 inch apart. It is faster, more accurate, and safer than a chainsaw. There are a lot of lathes that are 1 hp, and you can get a riser block so they can cut 12 inches high. They work for this, but not if you are going to be doing production work. Get good blades, I prefer bimetal which are hard metal teeth. You can get carbide, but they are only necessary if you want to cut veneers. I feel that a bandsaw is much safer than the chainsaw, and a table saw. There are a couple of books out which tell you how to fine tune your bandsaw, and if you don't know much about one, buy or borrow one of these books. For cutting the circles out, I prefer a 1/2 inch blade with 3 tpi (teeth per inch). You want a wide set to the teeth, especially if you are cutting green wood.
robo hippy
 
John. B":3axc17ec said:
I'm with Tam on this.
Buy the biggest and best you can afford.

I'm afraid i dont agree (or at least not in every case) it depends on what you want to do with it. If like me you only ever want to use it to cut out 2 or 3 inch thick bowl blanks then something modest in size and power will do fine. ( I have a 2 wheel baby rexon that i bought from blister last year). It does what i need , and its light enough to move arround if i need to. A big solid cast iron badsaw with 12 inch cut etc would just be in the way in my shop.

one reccomendation i would make if you are buying a modest sized one is to go with a good make and to get a two wheel not a three wheel.
 
I'm with Tam on this, go for the saw with the biggest depth of cut that you can afford. Certainly quality would be nice but personally, for mostly turning work, I would go for size first.

Dod
 
On the subject of blades, I was discussing yesterday with Ian at Dragon Saws via email as to which blades were best suited to my requirements - I paid straight away and they arrived today - absolutely great service.
 
I think Nick made an important point. I learned the hard way that a bandsaw never cuts better than the blade on it permits.
I am happy to use blades from Dragon Saws, as do a number of my Dutch friends. From Ian you get good service and advice.

Hans
 
Thanks guys for all your replies, I have a bit to think about and will do a bit more digging around. I suppose I should learn to turn better, this week end I started turning a log and ended with a matchstick and bruised ego. I thought I was doing so well.
 
Alec.
The important thing though, in the process of turning that log into a matchstick, is in learning during the process,
how a particular tool cuts, how it's held, how a cove or a bead is formed, how you make a spigot to fit certain jaws of the chuck.
Your ego may get bruised that you didn't produce an object this time, but think of the experience that you gained.
The next project will then probably produce something you can be proud of.
Keep going you will get there.

John
 
alec":6zaj6zk4 said:
Thanks guys for all your replies, I have a bit to think about and will do a bit more digging around. I suppose I should learn to turn better, this week end I started turning a log and ended with a matchstick and bruised ego. I thought I was doing so well.

Alec

The thing to do is just practice , don't try and make a perfect item

Bit of 4 x 4 between centres , rough it to a cylinder . cut 2 spigots one each end , then do some coves , beads and just have a play

Thats what I get my students to do , best way to learn , same with a bowl just practice , it will come quit quick , and dont forget , HEALTH AND SAFETY , and SHARP tools :wink:
 
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