RAJ
Established Member
O/K it's an old bench top one I bought for £30 off ebay.
Blade 1 - managed to cut some straight lengths of Beech. approximately 60mm x 800mm. took about half an hour. I don't push the timber it just stops the blade. I naturally thought the blade was old and not so sharp.
I made some gentle curve cuts in some Spalted Beech, now as you know spalted Beech isn't as hard as Beech. I tried not twist the blade, doing some gentle forward and back moves. Anyway the blade broke, again I thought, old blade.
Blade 2 - I found a supplier and was charged £8 something + £8 post. I was stuck so said o/k.
I made some cuts again tried some gentle curves. Nope' it broke again.
Complained to the supplier who said the blade he'd supplied was to thick for my saw and it was my fault for not ordering the correct blade. O/K maybe he had a point. I ordered another one at the correct thickness. Another £8 something plus another £8 post.
Blade 3 - Didn't do much just some Spalted Beech then a small piece of Pine. Came to a knot. You guessed it. Now I wasn't pushing the blade just letting it cut in it's own time, but it should take a knot. Well I'd have thought so. Or stop the blade if it's too much.
This time I really complained, it had broke on the weld. o/k they said if it's broke in the weld we''l replace it.
Blade 4 - I'd totally lost confidence and put it away without making anymore cuts.
Anyway I've started another project and needed to make cuts. With some gentle curves. Yeah! it's gone again.
Now I've spoke to a guy who has an old bench top saw. He said he cuts small brass, steel and stainless with his blade and it's never broke.
Am I wrong here in making these gentle curve cuts? Can you only make straight cuts with a band saw?
Ray :roll:
Blade 1 - managed to cut some straight lengths of Beech. approximately 60mm x 800mm. took about half an hour. I don't push the timber it just stops the blade. I naturally thought the blade was old and not so sharp.
I made some gentle curve cuts in some Spalted Beech, now as you know spalted Beech isn't as hard as Beech. I tried not twist the blade, doing some gentle forward and back moves. Anyway the blade broke, again I thought, old blade.
Blade 2 - I found a supplier and was charged £8 something + £8 post. I was stuck so said o/k.
I made some cuts again tried some gentle curves. Nope' it broke again.
Complained to the supplier who said the blade he'd supplied was to thick for my saw and it was my fault for not ordering the correct blade. O/K maybe he had a point. I ordered another one at the correct thickness. Another £8 something plus another £8 post.
Blade 3 - Didn't do much just some Spalted Beech then a small piece of Pine. Came to a knot. You guessed it. Now I wasn't pushing the blade just letting it cut in it's own time, but it should take a knot. Well I'd have thought so. Or stop the blade if it's too much.
This time I really complained, it had broke on the weld. o/k they said if it's broke in the weld we''l replace it.
Blade 4 - I'd totally lost confidence and put it away without making anymore cuts.
Anyway I've started another project and needed to make cuts. With some gentle curves. Yeah! it's gone again.
Now I've spoke to a guy who has an old bench top saw. He said he cuts small brass, steel and stainless with his blade and it's never broke.
Am I wrong here in making these gentle curve cuts? Can you only make straight cuts with a band saw?
Ray :roll: