Bad technique or bad steel?

[bodgermatic]

I've been preparing the stock for my new/reclaimed workbench (rebuilding an abused old school workbench from Education for All in Corby). So I've been alternating between the #6 and the #7, but the blade in the #7 dulls extremely quickly. I'm sharpening the two blades in the same way (I hope!), but one is the older Stanley blade that came with the plane from ebay, and the other is a new blade bought from Axminster in the past year. I knew that people said that the steel in the recent Stanley blades wasn't up to much, but I'm astounded at how poor it seems to be. After a handful of passes I can turn it over and actually see the edge deteriorating, at which point I put the #7 down and go back to the #6 which seems to actually hold it's edge!. Grinding at 23deg, honing at 30deg. Any suggestions? I'm leaning towards junking the blade and looking for some better steel!

 

[Racers]

Hi,

Bad steel I would say, it seems like you can get a good edge on the No6. Go for a Hock blade (and chip breaker).


Pete

 

[woodbloke]

Sounds like a cr*p bit of steel. If you're looking for a replacement try the Hock blades from CHT - Rob

 

[lurker]

As the others have said

However ask yourself - was the steel rubbish when I aquired it or did I crappify it when grinding, cos if its the latter then the Hock will go the same way.

 

[Alf]

There used to be a running joke on the Old Tools List that new Stanley blades were invaluable in the workshop - they attract all the rust to themselves and away from the tools you actually intend to use. Which pretty much sums up the esteem in which they're held. They do have the advantage of giving you multiple opportunities for a breather while you resharpen them though; you could do yourself a damage if you wait for that to happen with a good quality aftermarket iron. Don't say you weren't warned. :wink:

 

[bodgermatic]

As the others have said

However ask yourself - was the steel rubbish when I aquired it or did I crappify it when grinding, cos if its the latter then the Hock will go the same way.

Ground on a 400 grit japanese waterstone, so I hope not Not unless I'm going into a trance and moving _really_ fast...

 

[mack9110000]

Nice to see you back Alf.

 

[bodgermatic]

So putting my tightar*e hat on for a bit (I have spent quite a bit on tools and sundries recently, although not in the league of some of those I see slipping past me down the slope) What's to choose between, say the Hock Iron & Cap @ £38.33 + £28.75 = ~£67 (at CHT), and the Ray Iles Iron & Clifton Cap @ £28.50 + £17.25 = ~ £45 ?

I know the Hock blades are widely claimed as the best possible, but I need a rationale to spend a further 33% for my modest usage...

Cheers for the responses, folks.

 

[lurker]

So putting my tightar*e hat on for a bit (I have spent quite a bit on tools and sundries recently, although not in the league of some of those I see slipping past me down the slope) What's to choose between, say the Hock Iron & Cap @ £38.33 + £28.75 = ~£67 (at CHT), and the Ray Iles Iron & Clifton Cap @ £28.50 + £17.25 = ~ £45 ?

I know the Hock blades are widely claimed as the best possible, but I need a rationale to spend a further 33% for my modest usage...

Cheers for the responses, folks.

I've been thinking the same thing

 

[woodbloke]

There may not be allot to choose 'twixt the blades (don't know as I've never tried a Hock) It depends on whether you like the two part Cliffie cap iron...personally I hate the bloody things :twisted: with a passion so the Hock would have to be the choice for me - Rob

 

[dunbarhamlin]

I've had Hock, Iles and Clifton replacement irons.
All three are good, though unless you like ruler tricking, the Hocks take the most work.

No reason any of them couldn't be used with(out) a stayset cap iron according to taste. Just check the total thickness of the intended double iron plus lever cap to make sure it'll fit under the lever cap screw.

Suppose it's non-pc to suggest buying British - so I won't. Oops

Steve

 

[Paul Chapman]

Mike Hudson showed me the latest Clifton blades at Westonbirt, which are now slightly thicker. The old ones were 3.1mm thick - I'm not sure of the exact thickness of the latest ones. This could possibly give you a problem with the Y-lever not being long enough to reach the slot in the cap iron (although they can be lengthened if you know how).

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[bugbear]

I was going to put in my usual plug (with link) for the excellent and cheap Japanese laminated blade that APTC sell.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Japa ... -22303.htm

It's not cheap anymore :-(

BugBear

 

[Racers]

Hi,

How about 2 2.3/8 blades for £10.41? you need to cut them out and harden them :wink: http://www.cromwell.co.uk/CTL4133407H
I have made some my self and they are very good.


Pete

 

[Pekka Huhta]

My friend had bought a new Stanley a few weeks ago and the iron did not hold an edge at all. He did not know that plane irons could not be sharpened with a file, so he had filed it sharp several times.

Having heard this, I had to try myself and really: New Stanley irons can be sharpened with a file :roll:

Pekka

P.S: Alf, it's absolutely lovely to see you back again.

 

[woodbloke]

....although they can be lengthened if you know how

Cheers :wink:

Paul

:wink: :wink: - Rob

 

[Harbo]

There's an advert in Pop Wood by Industrial Tool Co. (IBC) claiming their Pinnacle range to be "the best kept secret" and "the best plane irons in Woodworking".
"Previously available as original manufacture equipment, these blades are designed for and are 100% compatible with Veritas® planes. All blades are A2, Rc 60-62."
They offer replacements for most LN, LV and Stanley irons.
Woodcraft sell them- price for a LV about $40.
Have not seen any reviews on them though?
The quote "Previously available as original manufacture equipment" intrigues me - did they make them for the others?

Rod

 

[jimi43]

I would like to say that without doubt the old irons hold their edge AGES longer than the new ones which IMHO are only fit for the BIN (Hoch and Neilsen et al aside).

New Stanley blades can be honed on a wet fish!!!

Alf...hi I'm Jim and my missus is looking over my shoulder asking from whence you hail? She is from Marazion so I have to ask...I have a huge Cornish contingent here in Kent as both my kids were born in Treliske....

Back to the regular programming...... :wink:

Jimi

 

[Alf]

Considering the tightar*e proviso, can I enquire whether summat's happened since I last looked that makes a replacement cap iron essential? A bit of a Charlesworthian fettle of the existing one should be more than enough for the time being, no? Or even forever. Yes, I know I'm suggesting one less purchase and this is unnatural and frowned upon, but I'm out of practice looking at the prices and I found my eyes popped a bit. Other than that it's probably a case of sticking a pin in the screen to pick which one to go for - all of them will be a marked improvement over that slice of cheese currently masquerading as an iron. It's possible an actual slice of cheese would be an improvement.

Dos El Presidente still wander along these shores? He might be able to comment upon the Pinnacle irons. Or he might make no comment, which could be equally informative...

Hiya, Jim. I regret you'll have to tell the missus I was born on entirely the wrong side of the Tamar. The workshop's in Cornwall but my heart is much further up country. I do have a godmother in Marizion though, if that softens the blow. Lovely spot and a splendid view of the Mount.

Cheers, Alf

 

[Philly]

Al
Prices have taken a fair jump on most handtools over the last year due to the Dollar and other increases, as you have probably noticed.
Rob does still pop his head in from time to time - usually to dangle one of his usual teases :lol:
Cheers
Philly