Anyone point me in the direction of the operation, maintenance and assembly manual for the new model TS250-2 table saw? Just taken delivery of one and the manual within the packaging is for the older version! I've mailed Axminster but they've yet to respond. Download version from their web site is also the old version. Rip fence arrangement and extension table are now fundamentally different. Need to crack on and get it built! Thanks.
Axminster TS250M - 2 table saw manual
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spiderlane
Established Member
Here you go -> http://www.axminster.co.uk/media/downlo ... manual.pdf
Seems the Mk2 200 and 250 saws are covered under the same manual now.
Let us know how you get on with the saw.
Cheers
Mark
Seems the Mk2 200 and 250 saws are covered under the same manual now.
Let us know how you get on with the saw.
Cheers
Mark
Thanks Mark, that's a great help. Trying to make a bloody jigsaw without the box is just so frustrating! Axminster has an obligation to issue this with the kit under the CE regulations and machinery directive but hey, it's not like I can come to any harm with this is it?!?
Selsdon_PJS
Established Member
I received my TS250M-2 last week and it had the correct manual so maybe a genuine mistake? I've also downloaded a version to my iPad as backup.
I have only set up the main saw so far but pleased with initial results (this is my first table saw). I went for the full kit. Extension table here but not yet set up, stand and sliding table not due until the end of the month, unfortunately.
I have only set up the main saw so far but pleased with initial results (this is my first table saw). I went for the full kit. Extension table here but not yet set up, stand and sliding table not due until the end of the month, unfortunately.
Hi Selsdon, I'm in a similar position. Bought the full kit and have been working to set up square and level for the last couple of nights. I've got the extension table and sliding table installed but not fully square etc. You shouldn't underestimate the amount of time this takes!! I'm a degree educated engineer but admit that (for me) it's been quite a frustrating and lengthy process. Hope it's worth it in the end when I get it running. Let me know ho you get on with it when th kit arrives.
I have one and it is an excellent saw - my only complaint is the room it takes up which is why I am selling mine right now. The only tricky thing to get precisely set up is the sliding table. Here's what I do to get my saw set up...
EDIT: First raise your blade to its full height and get it exactly 90 degree to the table bed - use a small 2" or 3" machinist square (be sure to get a square marked either BS 939 or DIN 875-1 - don't use a wooden handled carpenters square or somthing called "precision" from B&Q or Screwfix - they are very approximate and for chippys day to day work - ideally, dont trust any square until you have checked it and keep it in a case and not knocking around your bench). Make sure you square doesn't contact the teeth of your blade - it will throw off your measures and could possibly damage your blade teeth
1. Check that the blade is running exactly parallel to the T tracks in the table bed. I raise the blade to its full height and then attach a dial gauge to a small piece of wood that slots snugly into the track and run it along the flat side of the blade ensuring that the variation is very, very minimal - human hair minimal. You might prefer to attach rare earth magnets (as spacers) to the side of the blade and place a straight edge against them (checking that's an exact parallel width first with callipers/vernier gauge) to give you a better and longer surface to reference off (longer will exaggerate any variations making it easier to see them) - just make sure you are not measuring from the teeth as they are welded on and so will vary slightly and throw off your measuring. Also spin the blade by hand a little and measure again to check it's not buckled.
2. Once you are certain your saw blade is running parallel to your tracks you can then use the tracks to set the sliding table and the fence parallel to the blade. The fence is easy, simply slide it until its in line with the right hand T track and check it's finger flush along the edge - adjust as needed. Some people like to toe-out the fence so it's approx 0.5mm further away from the blade at the blade end because it reduces kickback - however if you are using a short fence (i.e. sliding it towards you so that the end of the fence does not go past the arbor of the saw) then you have already solved this problem and can set your fence parallel - just NEVER have it toeing in - not even by 0.05mm - better to err out than in, if that makes sense.
3. For the sliding table, I first get the sliding arm of the saw roughly perpendicular to the blade (eyeball it to the bed of the saw) and check that it travels across the bed of the saw evenly - height wise. Its very easy to end up with a sliding table that lifts or dips over the saw bed and you dont want that or else you will end up with non-square cuts that will drive you nuts trying to work out the cause of - because even if your blade is exactly 90 degree to the saw bed and your sliding fence is 90 degree to the blade you could still end up with very slightly curved cuts if the sliding table is not gliding across the saw bed at a consistent height. I usually float mine above the surface by about 0.25mm - that stops it scraping the top and you can use a thick piece of paper or something as a guide. Its the bolts under the aluminium rail that raise and lower the whole sliding table.
Once you have the height set setting the sliding table to the saw square is easy. Clamp a piece of timber into the sliding table (as though you were cross cutting) so its end is exactly finger-flush with the T track at the near end of the saw and then slide the table forwards checking it runs flush to the T track the whole length of travel across the table. If it doesn't, you loosen the bolts just a little (the allen key bolts that hold it to the the bed of the saw) and adjust the table position slightly - a very light side tap with a rubber mallet moves it a lot. You might want to machine a piece of timber that sits perfectly into your T track and attach a dial guage to another piece of timber in you sliding table clamp and run it down the length - be a perfectionist, it pays dividends.
After I have done all of that, I quickly double check them all over again - it's amazing how setting one thing can knock off another.
As a rule I check that the fence is flush to my T track at least once per day and I only re-check other things if I have moved the saw, not used it in a while or if cuts start going off a bit.
The great thing about the Axminster TS 250 saw is that it can and will set to exact machinist's tolerances - and most importantly, it will stay there. If yours simply wont no matter how hard you try, then you MIGHT have a bad one and should return it - but that's quite rare judging from feedback on this forum, it's far more likely that you are the problem, dont give up, you will get there, see it as building up your skills.
Did I mention that I have a good one for sale
EDIT: First raise your blade to its full height and get it exactly 90 degree to the table bed - use a small 2" or 3" machinist square (be sure to get a square marked either BS 939 or DIN 875-1 - don't use a wooden handled carpenters square or somthing called "precision" from B&Q or Screwfix - they are very approximate and for chippys day to day work - ideally, dont trust any square until you have checked it and keep it in a case and not knocking around your bench). Make sure you square doesn't contact the teeth of your blade - it will throw off your measures and could possibly damage your blade teeth
1. Check that the blade is running exactly parallel to the T tracks in the table bed. I raise the blade to its full height and then attach a dial gauge to a small piece of wood that slots snugly into the track and run it along the flat side of the blade ensuring that the variation is very, very minimal - human hair minimal. You might prefer to attach rare earth magnets (as spacers) to the side of the blade and place a straight edge against them (checking that's an exact parallel width first with callipers/vernier gauge) to give you a better and longer surface to reference off (longer will exaggerate any variations making it easier to see them) - just make sure you are not measuring from the teeth as they are welded on and so will vary slightly and throw off your measuring. Also spin the blade by hand a little and measure again to check it's not buckled.
2. Once you are certain your saw blade is running parallel to your tracks you can then use the tracks to set the sliding table and the fence parallel to the blade. The fence is easy, simply slide it until its in line with the right hand T track and check it's finger flush along the edge - adjust as needed. Some people like to toe-out the fence so it's approx 0.5mm further away from the blade at the blade end because it reduces kickback - however if you are using a short fence (i.e. sliding it towards you so that the end of the fence does not go past the arbor of the saw) then you have already solved this problem and can set your fence parallel - just NEVER have it toeing in - not even by 0.05mm - better to err out than in, if that makes sense.
3. For the sliding table, I first get the sliding arm of the saw roughly perpendicular to the blade (eyeball it to the bed of the saw) and check that it travels across the bed of the saw evenly - height wise. Its very easy to end up with a sliding table that lifts or dips over the saw bed and you dont want that or else you will end up with non-square cuts that will drive you nuts trying to work out the cause of - because even if your blade is exactly 90 degree to the saw bed and your sliding fence is 90 degree to the blade you could still end up with very slightly curved cuts if the sliding table is not gliding across the saw bed at a consistent height. I usually float mine above the surface by about 0.25mm - that stops it scraping the top and you can use a thick piece of paper or something as a guide. Its the bolts under the aluminium rail that raise and lower the whole sliding table.
Once you have the height set setting the sliding table to the saw square is easy. Clamp a piece of timber into the sliding table (as though you were cross cutting) so its end is exactly finger-flush with the T track at the near end of the saw and then slide the table forwards checking it runs flush to the T track the whole length of travel across the table. If it doesn't, you loosen the bolts just a little (the allen key bolts that hold it to the the bed of the saw) and adjust the table position slightly - a very light side tap with a rubber mallet moves it a lot. You might want to machine a piece of timber that sits perfectly into your T track and attach a dial guage to another piece of timber in you sliding table clamp and run it down the length - be a perfectionist, it pays dividends.
After I have done all of that, I quickly double check them all over again - it's amazing how setting one thing can knock off another.
As a rule I check that the fence is flush to my T track at least once per day and I only re-check other things if I have moved the saw, not used it in a while or if cuts start going off a bit.
The great thing about the Axminster TS 250 saw is that it can and will set to exact machinist's tolerances - and most importantly, it will stay there. If yours simply wont no matter how hard you try, then you MIGHT have a bad one and should return it - but that's quite rare judging from feedback on this forum, it's far more likely that you are the problem, dont give up, you will get there, see it as building up your skills.
Did I mention that I have a good one for sale
