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Auto master/slave switch

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I would go DPDT….
DP= Double Pole - it switches two wires
DT= as above
this allows both live and neutral wires to be switched.
There are also ‘DPDT Centre Off‘ switches which do what they say - there is a central off position where there is no connection.
Understood. Thank you very much for the clarification.


FYI - for anyone wondering what kind of load is required for "multi-way extension block to the tool socket" option HamsterJam suggested here - with the auto-switch model discussed in this thread - I found that 20W 11W dummy load on the master socket is sufficient to turn the slave socket on.

Update: turns out 11W in Master socket works to trigger Slave socket just as well
 
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rather than unplugging and plugging in the vac, if you have changed the master socket to a multiway or have a multiway extension plugged into the master socket. get an old small table lamp with a 25w bulb and switch the lamp on which will bring the vac on.
 
rather than unplugging and plugging in the vac, if you have changed the master socket to a multiway or have a multiway extension plugged into the master socket. get an old small table lamp with a 25w bulb and switch the lamp on which will bring the vac on.
Thank you for the suggestion.
Yes, this is exactly what I did and eventually found that with 5W lamp in the multi-way extension it does not trigger slave socket, but with 11W lamp it does.

Will probably have to do some more permanent re-wiring eventually, as table lamp in a quarter garage "workshop" takes too much room :), but my main issue with having to plug/unplug cords all the time is now sorted, thanks to nice people of this forum.
 
20210728_134313.jpg


for anyone who has one of these (yep, thanks) this is what the insides look like so easy to modify if required to build in to a different housing perhaps
 
Da woodster said in an earlier post it had an internal 13A fuse ( I must admit despite opening it up, and it has a silly security screw to hold it together, I didnt read the fuse value.
 
I actually dont see the point of the internal fuse unless it is a quick blow one (hope not)

Just opened the case again to see the fuse value. its 10a. with an L marker so low capacity what ever that means.
 
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Ignoring the price - if it is 230V Maxvac version with 2000W power take off then (on paper) it is indeed a better option than the switch discussed in this thread.

sounds like the power on/off is a little tricky and cables are a little thin so glad I went for the upgrade with it built right into the vacuum
For anyone wondering - cables to Master and Slave receptacles of the switch are 0.75mm and the mains one is 1.0mm
 

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