Attaching Wood to Wall Ends

[Alex H]

I'm renovating a barn and have a couple of breezeblock walls at either end of the central heating system. A few years ago it looked like this;

Now it looks like this;

I have some hardwood to place at the ends of the walls, the same width as the blocks. The system will be enclosed with sliding doors and the wood will 'neaten off' the wall ends.

Any suggestions as to how I can attach the wood without the fixings being obvious?

The wood is 10cm x 10cm

The blocks are not solid

It is our intention to 'finish' the walls but not in anything of great thickness i.e. plaster

 

[AndyT]

The easy way - which can work surprisingly well - is to stick the wood on with 'Gripfil,' 'No more nails' or similar. You might need to wedge it with some bits of wood across to the main wall while it sets.

Alternatively you could use screws but counter-bore the holes and buy a plug cutter so you can cut matching pellets from the same wood. If you choose them carefully and line up the grain they can be very unobtrusive.

 

[chippy1970]

Screw a few lengths of flexible metal strapping to the face that touches the wall. Bend them to a U shape then screw to either side of the wall if you sink the strapping in the wall slightly then you can plaster over them and then you will have no visible fixings.

 

[Pond]

If the blocks are aerated "breeze" or clinker blocks gap-filling (gripfill and the like) adhesive won't stick as the faces are dusty and not very sound.

I would plaster first, then PVA, then you can use any decent gap-filling adhesive. Or PVA the sections to have timber and stick on. Make a couple of timber wedges just wider than the gap to hold in place until the adhesive sets.

If you are putting doors on, though, will you not have jambs? If so, just plug and screw where the jambs will hide the fixings!

HTH

 

[Dibs-h]

If I get the "picture"so to speak - you could fit a "top plate" (or whatever it's called) easily enough, assuming it screws to the underside of the joists that are visible (perpendicular to the joists, is how it looks to me, but could be wrong). The ends would butt up against the block walls. Then the "uprights" could be wedged in rather tightly between the concrete floor and the top plate. Some expanding foam between the uprights and the block wall. Some 4" screws or something into the top corners and possibly the bottom one.

HIH

Dibs