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attaching metal to metal

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mickthetree

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I am in the midst of making a new rail guide for my circular saw (el cheapo). My plywood one is good, but I think it can be improved.

Is it possible to attach a strip of steel to the base plate of my circular saw (also metal) without welding or screwing?

The strip is 4mm square steel and I think the base plate is steel also. The base plate is coated in some sort of thin paint that is wearing off in places. I assume I would need to remove the paint where I want to attach the strip of steel. Any type of glue that might do this?

I am basically making a track in the new guide which I want the base plate to locate into.

I can get some wider metal strip that I could screw into place. This may also make routing the groove cheaper as I already have a cutter just a hair undersize.

I think the most important thing will be to get the strip aligned on the base absolutely square with the saw blade.
 

marcros

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i have some 2 part araldite rapid that I am sure mentions metal to metal.
 

mickthetree

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ha!! those sound like what I am after.

Does araldite go off?? I'm sure I have a two part set of that from years ago knocking about in a drawer somewhere.
 

marcros

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mickthetree":2qfbljqk said:
ha!! those sound like what I am after.

Does araldite go off?? I'm sure I have a two part set of that from years ago knocking about in a drawer somewhere.
I dont know. I have lost mine somewhere. I am hoping that when I find it, it will be ok!
 

marcros

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theartfulbodger":2xp99xc3 said:
"Super Steel" is great for gluing metal to metal.

It's a 2 part epoxy, dries hard enough to file in 5 minutes and is good also for sticking coins to pavements.
Oh, its you that does that to make me look a fool. Raises my hopes of a free 20 pence, and then dashes them!
 

mickthetree

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I got caught out with that outside a pub once. There were a crowd all sat behind the window who cheered when I tried to pick up the 1 pound they had stuck to the curb. They must have had hours of fun that day.

:)
 

JakeS

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mickthetree":3sfxmr2w said:
Does araldite go off??
I'm pretty sure the answer is 'no' if the tubes are sealed; I've certainly had tubes that lasted for years and still worked. If in doubt, try a small amount and see if it still cures!

I recently used some of the "extra-strong" blue and white Araldite to glue some washers to the underside of my table saw table, they're stuck on pretty securely.
 

AES

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Dear Mickthetree

Best would be rivets for that job, as someone has already suggested. The downside/s are: 1) to ensure success you'll need to practice a bit on some scrap beforehand; 2) by the very nature of the job rivets with countesunk heads will be best; 3) the are various "rules" to be followed, especially re size of rivets (i.e.the dia) v the thickness of the 2 pieces you're joining; spacing between rivets; o/a length of rivets. However if you fancy a go I can send you a little table which will sort out all those variables for you - and as said, after a bit of practice you will produce a really nice job that will outlast you most probably.

But a 2-part epoxy such as Araldite would work very well too. I would suggest the "original" (about 24 hours cure) stuff and NOT the 30 mins new stuff which is OK but always seems to cure a bit "rubbery". If you really do decide you need the quick-set stuff then the best to my knowledge is "Devcon 30 minute" (usual disclaimers) but though you MAY find this in some better tool stores etc, it's mainly available from model boat n aeroplane shops.

Using either Devcon or "original"Araldite, the key is absolute cleanliness on both surfaces to be joined i.e. absolutely NIL grease or oill (inc fingermarks). So yes, the bits of old paint you mentioned should be cleaned off thoroughly first. I usually use Acetone for the final cleaning (if you can get it), if not petrol out of your car.

BTW, all 2 part epoxies such as Alaldite DO have a shelf-life - I keep mine in the fridge (along with the cyano acrylate "super glue"), but Araldite should keep for a couple of years at least provided you've kept the (right colour) caps on each tube. But it's cheap enough really so if it were me and I had any doubts I'd just buy a new pair of tubes - I think it's about a fiver per pack in UK these days.

Good luck with it.
Krgds
AES
 

mickthetree

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Thanks for such a thorough reply AES.

I do have a rivet gun and some rivets. I'll take a look at that idea this weekend too.

I'm leaning towards using the flat wide strip as I think it will form a more sturdy track and not so fiddly to attach.

I'll post some results as I go.

Many thanks
 

Tinbasher

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Pop rivets or drilled and tapped countersunk screws.

Or maybe make a sub base which fixes over the existing one to give you more glueing area.
 

Lowlife

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Personally I wouldn't trust epoxy, it's great stuff, especially on porous materials such as wood, but for metal to metal the bond will only be temporary, exactly how long it lasts is impossible to say. A large surface area will give the best results, but 4mm wide strip is not going to give much bonding area.

With really good prep, thorough cleaning, degreasing, and keying it might last quite a while, but it'll never be permanent and Sod's Law says it'll fail at the worst possible moment!

A mechanical fixing, either bolts or rivets, is the only kind I would trust.
 

Lowlife

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And don't forget about expansion and contraction of the metal which can be enough to cause the glue joint to fail.
 

xy mosian

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A thought occurred, doesn't happen often, if you fix a strip of steel to the underside of your saw's base plate aren't you limiting its use a lot.
xy
 

hunggaur

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hi i have seen some tape which desgined for sticking metal to metal it is used to stick on motifs to cars and bikes. once its on it will never come off.

may or may not help

jon
 

dickm

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hunggaur":2tlcc15o said:
once its on it will never come off.
Oh yes it will! DAMHIKT..

Would have thought small bolts countersunk into the metal attachment, with shakeproof washer and nut on the top of the sole plate would be the best solution. Then the guide bar is easily removable for other use, and there is enough wriggle room to get the bar exactly parallel to the blade.
 

PMK54

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Be careful with rapid Araldite. It goes ultra brittle after a few months and will fail easily. We bought some equipment a few years ago that was held together with the stuff and within a year our supplier had to replace the lot. Better epoxies are available that are resiliant, they usually come in 2-part plastic sachets. I would by instinct reject any B&Q product, but that might be unfair on them.
 

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