Arranging shiplap joints

[HowardM]

Hello,
Currently building my workshop, just wondering about the shiplap layout.
Should I make all the end joints vertically in line.? Walls are 7320 long.
I am thinking of having them half and half, like a brick wall.
The thinking being any end joint would be supported the upper lap.

thanks
Howard

 

[carlb40]

Hi Howard. When i did mine - not as big as yours. I offset the joints, so if the first joint was at 2m, the off cut would then be the first piece on the next course. I also made sure that within 5 courses no 2 vertical joints lined up. Plus each joint was on a stud.
Hope all that makes sense?

 

[MMUK]

Same as with brickwork, offset your joints. Inline butt joints can lead to expansion and contraction problems and water ingress. When I fit shiplap or T&G cladding I tend to create a chamfered overlap at the joint, purely aesthetic but it also stops any big gaps showing if the wood shrinks.

 

[Grahamshed]

Definitely join over a stud though.

 

[HowardM]

Thanks folks,
Am I right in thinking that warpage in 4.8 metre shiplap would be more troublesome than 2.4 metre.?
My trailer is only 8 foot anyway, so there's more expense/hassle having 4.8 metre delivered.

Yes, I was planning on fixing every 1.2 metre at each stud with a stainless c'sunk screw, with clearance hole in the shiplap.

This time of year, would I install without clearance between shiplaps, assuming the planks would only shrink from their current state.?
The shiplap is going to be cuprinoled, any reason why not to do all surfaces before fitting.?

The planning demands dark chestnut cuprinol, would using red cedar or larch be gilding the lilly.?
The cost is secondary to durability/peace of mind really, the shiplap is a drop in the ocean compared to the total project cost.

thanks
Howard

 

[carlb40]

When i built mine, it was the middle of summer. I kept mine tight fitting and never allowed for shrinkage and after 8 plus years its still ok.

Also i coated mine before fitting - both sides had 3 coats of ronseal. Plus the ends.

 

[Grahamshed]

Yes, treat before putting it up and drip some into the screw holes as well.

 

[MMUK]

Yes, I was planning on fixing every 1.2 metre at each stud with a stainless c'sunk screw

:shock:

Nowhere near close enough IMO. You should really be fixing at absolute maximum 600mm centres, ideally 400mm.

 

[Grahamshed]

Yes, I was planning on fixing every 1.2 metre at each stud with a stainless c'sunk screw

:shock:

Nowhere near close enough IMO. You should really be fixing at absolute maximum 600mm centres, ideally 400mm.

Missed that. Definitely agree.

 

[Billy Flitch]

Howard if you haven`t started to build this project yet here`s something to think about.
Why are you building a wall 7320 long that size is not one thing or the other,when a Architect starts to lay something out he dose not work with the first number that comes in his head he works to a system and the system is worked to the materials that pass to that system.

Any advice that I give you here is given freely so you must take in to account its worth,7200 is a much better size and works into the system if a client asked me to set out the studs at 1.200 centers the answer would be no, and if he insisted that for me would be the end of the project for me. Why well when the roof collapses as it will do it will be that crappy carpenter that gets the blame and that wont be me.

You have two systems that work 40 or 60cm centers for the studs best practice says 40cm centers. whats the difference well 40cm takes 20 studs and 60 cm takes 14 studs you save 6 studs but then you come to the roof.


Sooner or later this roof will have snow on it and believe me snow is heavy I would set the rafters at 40cm but its up to you can set them at 60cm but don't mix the systems or you will have to double the wall plate.

Cuprinol the planks before you use them and if possible get larch, the first three will pass no problem the next you cut to land on a stud but that is only to shift the buts. Shift them how you want to make a strong wall you don't have to go crazy a boat only has a shift of buts every third plank.When you fasten the ship lap put one fastening in the bottom of the plank into each stud and on the next plank up let it over lap and fasten it also on the bottom but don't let the fastening pass through the plank below,this hold the plank in place but allows it to move have fun Billy.

 

[HowardM]

Thanks for the input,

This isn't a conventional shed.
I am building a steel portal frame which is clad with shiplap to look like a timber shed (planning).
Yes, the studs are designed at 400 centres, the roof is Kingspan on zed section purlins.

 

[Billy Flitch]

OK hope you can use some of that post any way .

 

[HowardM]

Thanks Billy you input was very helpful,

It was the planking I needed help on.
Screwing at the bottom makes a lot of sense, movement was my main concern.

Howard