Another small bandsaw advice request...Please :-)

[Tugalis]

Hi,

First off....I love this forum!!! I've been coming here for the last 18 months reading advice on all sorts so thanks!

I currently help my Mrs run a small woodwork shop, I'm a surveyor by trade so can be a bit of a stickler for build quality and tend to buy the best we can afford when it comes to tools.

We have had an order in for some work that is going to require repeated veneer style cuts in birch ply. The 1.5th ply is going to be cut to 60mm wide strips, steamed and then laminated into a form using resinite. This will then need to be resawn into 6mm thicknesses. They will need to be as near perfect as possible, I would normally use our cabinet saw for this however it's going to be a curved shape and I dare not go near the saw with something like this. Plus the Kurf of the blade would just mean too much wastage.

So, the question is, are any of these 4"/100mm (Charnwood/Axminster/Record types) cut saws reliable enough to cut straight everytime? I have spent months looking on ebay and seem to get pipped at the post every time. Obviously I would get a new blade on purchase. Ideally I would get a huge saw that I could use for cutting bowl blanks but the money has been put aside for a new cnc so really don't want to go over £300 and that is pushing it atm unless I absolutely have to. Have any of you used one of these with good results? I have looked at the old Startrite Bandits etc but all of the good 2nd hand saws seem to be up north and I'm near Cambridge so it's a bit of a trek!

Apologies if this has been asked already, nearly all the posts I have read regarding these small budget saws have said don't bother and get a bigger one/save The money. Normally I would agreed that you are all right but we just need to get something asap.

Any ideas would be a great help, thanks in advance.

J

 

[jumps]

Couple of points

Cutting straight can be as much a function of set up and blade as it is bandsaw but, the deeper the cut in the more awkward (rip cuts in oak or eucalyptus as examples) the more you need the machine,the blade and the set up!
I once got a small bench top model on a cleanse steal but after 24 hours of messing around I swore I would never touch such machines again (and returned it despite the deal). Having gone the same route you seem to be following I was fortunate to get a machine from someone on here (kity 613) and am delighted with the capability. However it's not for sale and they turn up rarely.
Last week a friend announced out of the blue that he had got a bandsaw, and when I went round I was depressed to find a small 2 wheel bench top model...However and hour later it was set up carefully and worked really well (for what it is). Axminster 205.
I've treated him to a couple of tuff saws blades and will be trying to run one of their 1/2" fast cuts as a test of its ability to tension etc and resaw at its limits. It already cut discs at its max depth in oak very well.
Based on this you may find the 250 model fits your needs - and basically if it doesn't meet your requirements within its spec Axi will deliver support and ultimately a refund.

 

[Bodgers]

If you are buying new, the Axminster 250 is an ok choice. It is a bit of a step up from the bench-top small 8" models (although it can actually bench mounted). I think it's currently about £280 (I bought a year old model from ebay a couple of months back for £100 - the seller didn't post a picture and didn't give a full title in the listing, so I think I lucked out.)

As has been well stated, setup is the key thing really.

The 250 doesn't have a lot of power though, so you really have to take things slowly.

Get a decent low tpi blade, set it up properly and take it easy.

 

[Steve Maskery]

I'm confused.
What is 1.5th ply? Do you mean 1.5mm ply? Or 1.5" ply? The former won't need steaming and I've never seen the latter.
If the former, you will need a HIGH TPI blade, something quite fine, otherwise the teeth will hit the ply one at a time, bang, bang, bang.

You may need a coarser blade for the resawing. How deep will the block be before it is resawn? Remember you are not really resawing, ply is as much cross-cutting as it is ripping.

I'm not clear on what you are trying to achieve. I think I am missing something. Can you post a pic of the finished piece?
S

 

[Tugalis]

Thanks for the advice!!

I have had issues before with buying gear that comes at the cheap end of the market. The old "buy cheap buy twice" rings very true, hence why I asked!

I will have a look at the Axminster, we bought their older model TS250 tablesaw when they had a deal with the extraction unit. Nice little saw for the money once I had built an in feed and out feed table around it. There were issues, mainly that they hadn't checked the box before sending it so the unit was damaged and then the replacement had a missing part. One quick email though and it was all sorted. Absolutely amazed with their customer service!!

I have noticed a couple more saws popping up on ebay so I will try there again just in case. You were lucky with the Ax saw Bodge, I love it when things like that happen. I got a 6 burner stainless BBQ for £80 because they thought the cast iron burners were shot, just needed a good seeing to with a wire brush and it's still running perfectly 2 years later

Has anyone bought the FOX brand saws, they basically look like a re branded ax/record but didn't know what the insides were like.......

Apologies. I am writing up on my phone and my auto correct has ideas of its own sometimes lol. It's 1.5mm birch ply that I will be using. The steaming was more of a way to help the wood keep to a form whilst I mess around with the resinite and to ensure no cracking when attempting the bend. I did think it may be a little over kill if I'm honest.

The block will be around 50mm thick. I haven't got a pic I can post but think of it as a stretched S. So are we thinking a high or low tpi? I don't mind some clean up at the end sanding wise but would hate to cause a large amount of of chip out as the ply isn't cheap!

Cheers for the replies!!

 

[Steve Maskery]

OK, am I right in getting this then?:
1 Start with 1.5mm ply
2 Sandwich it up to make a curved piece about 50mm thick
3 Cut it to 6mm thick slices

If so, you don't need to steam.
You need a fine blade for the 1.5mm. Fine like a coping saw.
I'd use something like 6tpi for plywood 50mm thick. I think it would be a reasonable compromise of speed and quality of cut.
S

 

[Tugalis]

Yeh thats exactly right.

That's great. Thanks for the info!! Just need to get the bandsaw now and I'm away

Just out of interest, have any of you seen those Fox ones working? They sell them at Poole. I have had some great experience with Sheppach and their plunge saw when most people thought it would fall to pieces after a few weeks so wondered if it would transfer over to other pieces of kit. I've struggled to find any actual reviews!

 

[Bodgers]

Fox bandsaws don't seem to have a good reputation on this forum...do a search...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Tugalis]

Yeh as soon as I clicked post I thought of all those times Ive read forums and see people don't use the search function before asking a simple question but wasn't sure how to edit lol. Never mind!

Cheers for all the advice, it's very much appreciated.

J

 

[Steve Maskery]

I have the big Scheppach and it has never let me down. It's the one you see on all my videos. There are smaller ones in the range!
S

 

[spiderlane]

I have an Axminster 250 Bandsaw which I'm very pleased with. Its got a dead flat cast iron table and the fence is solid and dead square to the mitre slot out of the box.

It will tension and power a 1/2" Tuffsaws 3/4 Vari-Tooth blade and will re-saw 4 inch oak with a surprisingly nice finish if you take it steadily.

Cheers
Mark

 

[Bodgers]

I have the 250, and whilst I would generally agree, it doesn't have a lot of power, so I bet you had to take that VERY steady.

I need to get a tuffsaw blade on mine I think...

 

[spiderlane]

Yeah it's not a super powerful saw and I fed at a steady pace but it cut through faster than I was expecting. To be honest I won't be doing a lot of resawing, but I wanted the ability to make the odd cut at full depth.

That 3/4 tooth variable TPI blade is excellent - it's very very sharp and really removes a lot of material quickly with a surprisingly good finish at the end of it. It was a recommendation from Ian @ Tuffsaws and it does the job very well

Cheers
Mark

 

[Tugalis]

Steve - Cheers for all the info, I'm sure your a busy guy with all your DVD's to make. Any joy with your tools? I saw on your webby they had been stolen. Only saving grace I guess is hopefully someone who looks at buying them might be on here and see!!

Spider and Bodgers, cheers for the info. If I'm being honest I'm still unsure whether to spend that amount on a smaller bandsaw. We have had axminster stuff before and they are in truth worth the money.

In the back of my mind I'm thinking no doubt we will outgrow it quickly but I have promised her the CNC so not quite sure what we will do. Normally I don't buy the tools untill we have secured the work but I am tempted to spend the extra to try and future proof having to buy another saw in another 6 months!!

I've seen an early Inca 260 on sale not far from here so might check it out and then go from there!

 

[Tugalis]

Just a quick update guys.....

I found a 2nd hand Inca 260 online. Went to have a look today and it looked good. Picked it up for a good price. No mitre gauge or fence but I will build a new fence for it anyway so that's no bigger and I do all the mitre cuts on the table saw so I'm one happy chap!

Just need to grab a new blade and give it a clean up and I will be away!!!

Thanks again for all the help guys, think I will be giving your website a look Steve for a DVD or 2!!

 

[Bodgers]

Inca 260...looks like an interesting machine. Looks like it doesn't cut very deep...?

 

[Steve Maskery]

Small but beautifully formed. They are nice, well-built pieces of engineering.