Ags10 help

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JuniorJoiner

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Shropshire uk
Hello. I have a ags 10 saw, purchased recently without any Manual
Etc. I've downloaded the PDF from wadkin, it doesn't explain how to
Oil the main shaft, just tells you to do it twice a year. Hopefully this will
Be a simple answer for someone.
Also:) I need the end cap for the original rip fence. If any one out there has 1
Or an idea of where I can look.
Many thanks guys.
 
You don't "oil the main shaft" - they're sealed bearings...least, mine are!

Are you sure you downloaded the correct manual? There are at least three versions, 'old' AGS, where it is a cast, rounded upper casing, 'new' AGS - a squared, pressed steel cabinet and a triangular fence support and a panel saw version called (I think) a BGS.

I have an old AGS, as have several members here, so feel free to continue querying, or PM us when you have several posts and the permissions kick in.


As to end caps for the fence, good luck with that. They're fragile as they are cast iron and thin section. The 'hook' can snap off - mine had, long before I got it - and replacements MAY be available from Daltons or similar, but you will need a small mortgage to fund this! A 'bodge' in steel and/or welding is the way to go.

Just check that the tightening mechanism inside the fence body pulls the hook up sufficiently to hold the fence steady when cutting. Also, some advise a miniscule 'toe-out' of maybe a gnats todger of a degree to avoid pinching, say, 90.05 degrees? The really good safety factor that avoids this is to fit a false face to the fence, ending about 5mm after the blade begins, in other words, just behind the teeth as the blade spins. This permits slight separation after the cut, if the wood still has tension and wants to spread into a 'Harvey Smith'....DAMHIKT!
Sam
 
Thank you Sam for the good advise. I've managed to align the fence now so she's cutting true as now;)
I will add the secondly fence tomorrow did no that so thank you.
I'm fitting an out feed table to the rear of the table so doing away with the rear bar. Are there any general servicing tips you can give me as I only really keep it clean and the blades are sharp. Thanks as any tips are embraced.
 
Hi JJ, general tips relate primarily to dust extraction - there is NONE in the original design! Most folks 'box in' the cabinet (motor tilting problem?) and install a sloping surface in the cabinet and below the motor, leading to an extraction outlet at the cabinet's bottom edge? There are various photos knocking around, try Mr Fish of this forum and see his drool-worthy installation. Alternatively......the dust deflector plate just behind the saw blade is a joke. I've presently got the 'lid' off my saw, trying to fashion a wrap-around cowl to replace it with, one that I hope to attach my 4" dust hosing to, so that I can more efficiently catch emphysema initiators. I hope to suspend a 90-degree fitting to the underside of the motor, so that the hose attachment point is directly below the motor and therefore eminently accessible.

There is one real dust trap/possible damage point underneath the saw. Go to the motor side, slightly forward of the motor, look backward toward the 'smile' cut-out in the cabinet. On the underside of of the main casting, do you see the 'worm' that drives the elevation quadrant? Get a relative or colleague to crank the elevation wheel back and forth; that worm wheel and cogs on the bottom of the casting are very, very exposed to sawdust and the worm can gum up with resin to an astonishing amount. Cleaning it involves extracting the worm from its housing. If you know your way round an AGS, and have quadruple jointed, 19" fingers, you MIGHT just do this without a complete strip-down....us ordinary arthritic mortals swear and strip down!

Just be careful about removing the rear bar. The big long fence becomes an excellent lever and an 8' plank of, say, 2" thickness could REALLY put a bending/shearing force on your front bar? Beismeyer realised this when he specified HD box section for his debatablely excellent fence? The cast bar on our AGS's could snap more easily than box section? Also, the AGS fence itself is just a pressed steel U shape with a bottom section spotwelded (or similar) into the open 'U'? I feel that its too flimsy to stand up to the forces we could exert on it if only secured one end?

Good luck. They are great wee saws (400 pounds weight, 'Yeah right'; they're "wee" ](*,) ) and stable. I've totally stripped mine down, de-rusted it, re-painted it [DON'T USE WICK'S HAMMERSHITE....go on, ask me how I know this... :oops: ] replaced the arbour bearings, put a new 3hp motor in it (and a 16amp plug) and am now - after two years*, am re-assembling it and refining it as I go. Have you seen the price of replacing the fine adjustment cogs inside the fence housing? :shock: :shock: :shock:


Sam

*Depression eats your initiative.
 
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