Advice Please: Drawer runners. SOLVED! Ta!

[Benchwayze]

Hi folks,

This query is probably for the experienced kitchen fitters.

I am thinking of using 3/4 extension drawer slides in a rolling machine stand I am making. I have never used drawer runners before.

There's a type at Eurofit, which are 12.7mm 'thick'. As this measurement affects the width of the drawer, I need to know how accurate I must be, when making room for the slides.

I think I am going to find it difficult to work to 0.4 mm and I really don't want to buy digital verniers! So, how accurate do I have to be in making side-space allowance for the drawer runners please?

In other words is 25mm going to be too tight; is 26 mm going to be too slack?

Are there metal shims available, in case I need to adjust?


Thanks in Anticipation.

 

[Dodge]

I always work to 25mm without a problem - there is a small amount of play in the runners anyway

HTH

Rog

 

[Oryxdesign]

Or just work to a round inch.

The drawer runners have a relief round the mounting holes to allow for in accuracy and out of square so they are forgiving. I prefer to mount them in a groove in the drawer side, it gives a bit more strength.

 

[Benchwayze]

Many thanks gents.

I had considered using a groove in the drawer side, but I am using plywood for drawer stuff. and because of the extra strength in the ply I was going thinner than 18mm. Maybe!

Many thanks. Problem solved. All I need now is to find out if the slides are sold as pairs AND priced as pairs!

 

[Oryxdesign]

Normally priced and sold in pairs

 

[Benchwayze]

Thanks Simon..
Obviously not always illustrated as pairs!
Screwfix do
Eurofit don't!

Is a puzzlement! :lol:

 

[9fingers]

John,

You might want to look at Buller for slides
http://www.bullerltd.co.uk/section/274/ ... lides-45mm

I've been very pleased with quality, price and speed of delivery on several occasions now.
(priced in pairs!)
Bob

 

[Benchwayze]

Thanks for that Bob.
There was just a bit of confusion... I know it makes sense they are sold and priced in pairs, but 'tis best to check. Thanks for the link.
I shall be doing a few more of these soon, as I gradually get through the jobs!

 

[wobblycogs]

I second the ones Bob recommends. I've just finished installing a few, they are strong and cheap.

As for tolerance I found I could get away with 1mm either side of ideal quite easily and probably more like 2mm. This was lucky as it turned out by frame wasn't perfectly square.

 

[Benchwayze]

I second the ones Bob recommends. I've just finished installing a few, they are strong and cheap.

As for tolerance I found I could get away with 1mm either side of ideal quite easily and probably more like 2mm. This was lucky as it turned out by frame wasn't perfectly square.

Maybe mine won't be square either! Hmmm!

ATM I am trying to work out how to work on the carcass, when it's almost as long as my bench, and in my shop I have three feet by six to move around in. Looks like working on the drive again. But tomorrow now, as the kids are due back from school. I like my garage doors to be shut by then! :shock:

 

[wobblycogs]

I had a very similar problem. The carcass was floor to ceiling and there was no way the whole thing would go up the stairs in one piece so I made the front and back in the shop then put it together in situ. Problem was the walls were further out of true than I realized and compressed the carcass a little. The end result was that the draws were slightly (about 2mm) narrower at the back than the front. Like this:

  __
 /   \
-----

If you look carefully you'll notice the draws are made "incorrectly" - the front and back span the full width. I built them like this so that I could easily test the width of the draw against the runners when they were in place. I made it so that the back was a tight fit so that as the draw was pulled out the runners would take up the slack. Once everything was domino'ed and the 12mm ply base was glued in the draws are virtually indestructible so I don't think this odd construction technique will be an issue.

I have to admit I made the middle draw a little too tight. It's fine once it's about 100mm out but as I push it in I can tell the last 100mm is right at the limit of how much slack the runners have.

If you are putting in multiple draws like this get a story stick for vertical spacing. There are slots on the runners for vertical adjustment but I found the horizontal adjustment slots were more useful when fitting the runners.

 

[Benchwayze]

Thanks Wobbly,

I am making six, 6" deep drawers in a base cabinet. Two banks of three side by side. There is room enough for about 1/2" horizontal space between each drawer, so they will be through dovetailed with the Keller Jig, and false fronts planted. The slides should be here tomorrow I am told! So I'll be busy making the drawers all day. I'm hoping that this will be done by the weekend. I need my Triton running properly!

Thanks for the pic too! You have given me an idea for the alcove in the spare room, where I paint and read!

Cheers again Wobbly

John

 

[wobblycogs]

Glad I could help.

My draws are about 600 x 600 x 200 so absolutely huge (eyes bigger than belly situation). The whole cabinet was built to hold my computer equipment. I fitted a shelf above the printer over the weekend which holds the server, NAS, ADSL and networking equipment. Got to run power, phone and network in there yet.

Good luck with the build.

 

[wobblycogs]

Glad I could help.

My draws are about 600 x 600 x 200 so absolutely huge (eyes bigger than belly situation). The whole cabinet was built to hold my computer equipment. I fitted a shelf above the printer over the weekend which holds the server, NAS, ADSL and networking equipment. Got to run power, phone and network in there yet.

Good luck with the build.