Advice on laminates needed

[Snetty]

Hi guys, long time lurker here.

I've been planning on building a new hood for my fishtank for a while and it's my plans have got to the stage where I need a few questions answering before I can go any further.

I want a natural wood look to it, but the convenience of a wipe clean surface on the inside (to clean water splashes etc.). So I figured plywood laminated on one side with beech (probably, but maybe oak) and laminated with melamine for the inside. Am I likely to find anywhere that will supply this for me? If not are there alternatives?

I understand taht there are 3 types of plywood. Cheap stuff, waterproof and marine grade. How effective is the waterproof? The hood will obviously never be immersed in water, but the air in the top of the tank is pretty moist and the hood is likely to get splashed pretty frequently. So would it be sensible to go for marine grade or is that total overkill?

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[Scrit]

Hi Snetty

I want a natural wood look to it, but the convenience of a wipe clean surface on the inside (to clean water splashes etc.). So I figured plywood laminated on one side with beech (probably, but maybe oak) and laminated with melamine for the inside. Am I likely to find anywhere that will supply this for me? If not are there alternatives?

Laminate-coated plywood is normally a special order in my experience as it has relatively few uses outside the marine field. Melamine faced MDF (MF-MDF) and MFC (melamine-faced chipboard) are stick in trade, though you'll proably want something that will withstand heat (from the light) and moisture. If you have any boat builders where you are you may find that they can let you have some MF plywood.

Another approach would be to face some sheet material with Formica or another decorative laminate, although you'll need to face both sides with the same type of material (i.e. laminate) to minimise the risk of bowing. If you put veneer on one side and Formica on the other sure as eggs is eggs it will bow in time. The laminate needs to be cut in the same direction on both sides (i.e. the grain on the back of the laminate sheet must run in the same direction on both sides). As for the substrate you'll need either MR-MDF (the green core moisture resistant stuff) or a WBP (exterior grade) plywood. You can get a wood grain laminate made from real wood veneer (made by Polyrey amongst others), but it's expensive and I somehow don't think that yopu're looking to buy two sheets of laminarte for this job.

Personally I'd be inclined to make an aluminium foil reflector to sit inside the top, make the whole thing from veneered MDF with solid wood lippings and ensure that there's plenty of vents at the top. Then I'd seal the lot with about 6 coats of something like yacht spar varnish to seal it and see how it goes. Technically not the correct approach, but with good sealing likely to last as long and cost a lot less.

Scrit

 

[Matt1245]

Would plastic coating be suitable for the finish?

http://www.axminster.co.uk/recno/13/product-Rustins-Rustins-Plastic-Coating-23018.htm

Never tried it myself, but claims to be good against heat and water.

Matt.

 

[jasonB]

You can buy ready veneered oak moisture resistant mdf, I would make it with this then use a clear epoxy finish all over from someone like West Systems.

Have a search for fish tanks as I think Lynks had a long thread going about his marine set up.

Jason

 

[Nick W]

Plastic coating is the most bomb-proof finish I have used, and I would have thought there'd be no problems with it.

One tip if you are going to put on more than one coat. Mix up enough (it's a two part product) for the entire job, it's easier to get the proportions right with larger volumes, and store the unused part in a sealed plastic container in the fridge (get permissions from SWMBO first). It will keep that way for a week or so.

 

[Snetty]

Firstly, thanks for the replies guys. Very helpful lot you are.

Right, when you refer to laminate, do you mean melamine laminate (the white plastic stuff)?

I don't mind using MDF as the base material, but I want a real wood look to it, so it'd need to be laminated with Beech or something for the outside.

I'm considering that plastic coating Matt1245 but if I can get a melamine finish I think that'd be more ideal as it'd be 100% wipeclean and waterproof.

So it sounds to me like you lot are recommending MDF coated with both melamine and Beech... am I right?

 

[Nick W]

Plastic coating is 100% waterproof and also available in white IIRC.

 

[Snetty]

Plastic coating is 100% waterproof and also available in white IIRC.

Ah, now I kinda assumed it was clear. Ok, well that makes things a little easier I suppose.

 

[Nick W]

It somes in both clear and white, see here

 

[Scrit]

When you refer to laminate, do you mean melamine laminate (the white plastic stuff)?

We're referring to what is commonly called "Formica" (actually a brand name, the trade term is decorative laminate). Melamine facing is the term used to describe sheet stock which has been manufactured with a thin layer of melamine-based laimnate bonded onto both sides. It is much less waterproof than laminate bought as separate sheets (and much thinner)

I don't mind using MDF as the base material, but I want a real wood look to it, so it'd need to be laminated with Beech or something for the outside.

The downside is that a half sheet of laminate doesn't come cheap

I'm considering that plastic coating Matt1245 but if I can get a melamine finish I think that'd be more ideal as it'd be 100% wipeclean and waterproof.

If you use any commercially rated floor finish such as Rustin's or Dulux Diamond and build up enough coats you'll effectively waterproof the surface (make it wipe-clean). The problem areas might be the joints and edges which will need to be tight and well made.

So it sounds to me like you lot are recommending MDF coated with both melamine and Beech... am I right?

Actually, both facings need to be covered with the same material, i.e. veneer and lacquer/varnish or melamine or laminate, and the coatings should be of similar thickness. If you have veneer on the outside and laminate on the inside you're asking for it to warp, so if you add laminate to the material then make it a beech laminate, which unfortunately could look sort of plasticky.

Scrit

 

[Snetty]

...which unfortunately could look sort of plasticky.

Yes, that's exactly what I want to avoid. I think Plastic Coating is looking to be the answer.

I hear what you're saying about the joints needing to be tight and accurate. Problem is, that atm I don't have a table saw, or a biscuit joiner. But I'm keen to make this hood to a high quality so I'm probably going to end up buying the right tools to get the job done to a decent level.

To be honest, I've been looking to get into woodwork at a high level ever since getting Sky TV and getting hooked on Norm. I have a few projects in mind, the tank hood is just the first.

 

[woodbloke]

Hi guys, long time lurker here.

I've been planning on building a new hood for my fishtank for a while and it's my plans have got to the stage where I need a few questions answering before I can go any further.

I want a natural wood look to it, but the convenience of a wipe clean surface on the inside (to clean water splashes etc.). So I figured plywood laminated on one side with beech (probably, but maybe oak) and laminated with melamine for the inside. Am I likely to find anywhere that will supply this for me? If not are there alternatives?

I understand taht there are 3 types of plywood. Cheap stuff, waterproof and marine grade. How effective is the waterproof? The hood will obviously never be immersed in water, but the air in the top of the tank is pretty moist and the hood is likely to get splashed pretty frequently. So would it be sensible to go for marine grade or is that total overkill?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Hi - i've got a 300L marine tank which doesn't have a hood as i've got MH lighting and I loose maybe 4 litres a day through evaporation. In my view I would go for marine, WBP ply is ok but will eventually delaminate in a very damp environment like the top of an aquarium, having said that if your tanks' marine you don't really need one anyway IMHO - Rob

 

[Snetty]

standard tropical tank tbh. If I had a decent sized tank I probably wouldn't bother with a tank hood... but I don't, it's really rather small so it'd just look odd imo.

 

[Jake]

I think WBP would be fine. The difference between it and marine is that the latter is guaranteed not to have any voids, which is a concern if the plywood is permanently immersed, not just subjected to some humidity.