advice for re-finishing a dining table

[JBlack50]

Hello,

First post here, really looking forward to using this forum:

I've inherited a dining table which I believe to be oak, pics attached (I'm afraid I can't say for sure if it's oak, I'm lacking the experience) and there are two problems with it:

1. The finish has started to come away at the edges. It is quite a dark finish (see pics)
2. The existing finish marks very easily, especially with water

I want to refinish the table and use it as a family kitchen table. I have small children and really want it to be very hard-wearing - no coasters on the table, regular Ribena spills, coffee cups, everything. I don't really mind too much what the finish looks like - shiny/matt, dark/light etc I just want to use the table and not have to worry about it all the time.

Of course I've read lots of posts about different finishes I could use but would really appreciate direct advice on this.

Many thanks,

Andy

 

[rafezetter]

Hey Andy - what sort of refinishing have you done before, and do you want to remove the old finish and start again or just go over the top as each will require different tools and time.

When you say you don't want to worry about it - do you mean you want something that's pretty much bomb proof, or you are not too bothered about the cosmetics at all?

There are only 2 real options here, bomb proof epoxy style coating (2 products come to mind) or treat it to give some protection but accept it'll wear and stains and rings are inevitable.

Once you've decided which path we can give you more accurate advice on products etc.

Wood looks like beech to me. (I'm not saying it IS beech it just looks like it to me )

 

[JBlack50]

Thanks very much for the reply.

I've only done simple varnishing, waxing and oiling previously but more than happy to learn new things I don't mind going over the old finish is that's a sensible possibility but will remove the old one if it's generally thought to be the best way forward.

Exactly as you suggest - I'd like something that's bomb proof, I don't want to be sprinting to the sink every time my daughter knocks her drink over or forever slipping coasters underneath my wife's glass. I'm not too bothered what the final finish looks like but I'd like it to protect the wood from damage and visible rings etc (maybe that seems a bit odd!)

It sounds like an epoxy style coating might be a good route for me. Any advice on this appreciated.

Andy

 

[Jacob]

....
There are only 2 real options here, bomb proof epoxy style coating (2 products come to mind) or treat it to give some protection but accept it'll wear and stains and rings are inevitable. ......

Simple raw linseed oil is very tough. Slow drying and takes time but very durable once it's on and hardened off.

 

[JBlack50]

Thanks Jacob, I'd not actually thought of that. I've also read that Osmo oil will withstand anything, should I believe the hype??

If I go with the epoxy coating, does anyone have any advice on product and application?

Thanks for your input .

 

[MusicMan]

Fiddes Hardwax oil works very well; used it on a yew desk about three years ago, withstands coffee, alcohol etc with no problems, still looks excellent. I believe Osmo is similar.

Needs about four coats, rubbing down between each and making the coats progressively thinner; the last coat needs very little.

Keith

 

[rafezetter]

Well I can't comment on the Osmo or Fiddes, and their ability to resist stains and rings - and while Raw linseed I've heard is good - it takes an age to dry.

For a faster - relatively fool proof way of making something pretty impervious - the epoxy coating can be done 2 ways:

Rustins Plastic coating - a 2 part epoxy goes on thin like a varnish, requires several coats to get a good durable finish, but using the product can be finicky (as I found out recently). It doesn't like it if there has been any previous coating of any kind on the wood, and can react badly leaving a horrible stippled finish. Best way to reduce the chances of this is to give the top a very hard sanding, with a sander going through the grits. (according to rustins whom I had to contact)

A simpler solution is west systems epoxy (or similar product) - as used on things like bathroom vanities etc to make them waterproof.

It's a simple 2 part epoxy, mixed then poured onto the table top, spread around, but left thick, and left to cure.

if you google how to apply it there are plenty of youtubes, and it will show how easy it is to apply, and the finished result after.

It should be done outdoors as the fumes are very hazardous, but they gas off.

One of the few downsides to using this is the top will have to be totally free of any wax based finishes - but varnish, oil or water based are OK.