Cabinetman
Established Member
The whole top (L shape) weighed in at 115 kilos, it took some real ingenuity to manhandle it. Trouble with working on your own.
Advantages of a Sliding table saw vs Standard Table saw
- Thread starter Prizen
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Doug71
Established Member
I love my slider, they make life so much easier.
Google Fritz and Franz jig if you haven't seen one, very handy.
The only downside I find is the gap around the blade is a bit big if you are cutting fine stuff. To get over this I just cut part way through an offcut of MDF so it's like a false top and it gives you the zero clearance around the blade to avoid breakout
Google Fritz and Franz jig if you haven't seen one, very handy.
The only downside I find is the gap around the blade is a bit big if you are cutting fine stuff. To get over this I just cut part way through an offcut of MDF so it's like a false top and it gives you the zero clearance around the blade to avoid breakout
Bristol_Rob
Established Member
I'd love to see a photo of this?
Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)
Established Member
I find most of the posts here fail to convey the difference between a slider and a table saw. While the essential difference may be summarised in a few words, it really requires using a slider for a little while before appreciating that it extends the technique of sawing well beyond a table saw. This cannot be grasped from looking at photos.
First off, the heart of a slider is the wagon, and these come in a range of lengths. Some are very long, and you need a large workshop to allow for the travel. I have a “short stroke” Hammer K3, with a 1300mm long wagon. This is fine for my work, which is 100% solid wood. I do not work with manmade panels.
Secondly, the wagon on the slider differs from the crosscut platform on a table saw (such as a Saw Stop). The wagon on the slider runs right up against the blade, while the crosscut platform usually runs about 6-12” away from the blade. The slider wagon’s position enables far greater precision and ease of set up.
Thirdly, the value of the slider is not crosscutting, as one might imagine, but ripping. This is really where the slider and table saw vere off on different paths! Essentially, on a table saw, one pushes a board along a rip fence past the blade. Keeping the board firmly to the rip fence is extremely difficult (impossible without an extra fixture), and the result is that the board will move. This affects the accuracy of the rip. By contrast, a rip on the slider moved a fixed board past a fixed blade. The board is secure and the rip cut is precise. The result is a glue line joint straight off the saw.
Besides ripping and crosscutting (the slider is brilliant at crosscutting, naturally) on the wagon, a slider may also be used as if a traditional table saw with a rip fence. But the heart of the slider is the wagon, and I am just scratching the tip of the iceberg here. I have had the K3 for about 4 or 5 years now. The choice was this or a Saw Stop with all the fruit. Once I used them alongside one another, it was no contest. I have zero regret at getting the K3.
Read about Fritz and Frans jigs on YouTube. This will provide some insight into the way the slider may be used. I prefer the Parallel Guide I designed. It allows for precise ripping on the wagon, including tapers for legs. Scroll down to Hammer Sliding Tablesaw Mods on my website: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered Tools and Machinery/index.html
To give an idea of the footprint, this was shortly after it was installed …
Regards from Perth
Derek
First off, the heart of a slider is the wagon, and these come in a range of lengths. Some are very long, and you need a large workshop to allow for the travel. I have a “short stroke” Hammer K3, with a 1300mm long wagon. This is fine for my work, which is 100% solid wood. I do not work with manmade panels.
Secondly, the wagon on the slider differs from the crosscut platform on a table saw (such as a Saw Stop). The wagon on the slider runs right up against the blade, while the crosscut platform usually runs about 6-12” away from the blade. The slider wagon’s position enables far greater precision and ease of set up.
Thirdly, the value of the slider is not crosscutting, as one might imagine, but ripping. This is really where the slider and table saw vere off on different paths! Essentially, on a table saw, one pushes a board along a rip fence past the blade. Keeping the board firmly to the rip fence is extremely difficult (impossible without an extra fixture), and the result is that the board will move. This affects the accuracy of the rip. By contrast, a rip on the slider moved a fixed board past a fixed blade. The board is secure and the rip cut is precise. The result is a glue line joint straight off the saw.
Besides ripping and crosscutting (the slider is brilliant at crosscutting, naturally) on the wagon, a slider may also be used as if a traditional table saw with a rip fence. But the heart of the slider is the wagon, and I am just scratching the tip of the iceberg here. I have had the K3 for about 4 or 5 years now. The choice was this or a Saw Stop with all the fruit. Once I used them alongside one another, it was no contest. I have zero regret at getting the K3.
Read about Fritz and Frans jigs on YouTube. This will provide some insight into the way the slider may be used. I prefer the Parallel Guide I designed. It allows for precise ripping on the wagon, including tapers for legs. Scroll down to Hammer Sliding Tablesaw Mods on my website: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered Tools and Machinery/index.html
To give an idea of the footprint, this was shortly after it was installed …
Regards from Perth
Derek
Last edited:
Thanks Derek, informative as ever. I like your parallel jig. Also Mike Kreinhops. I have seen some parallel rip fence attachments from Felder and also from Brian Lamb Tool Works but they are so very expensive!
