accuracy on startrite table saw

[mickthetree]

I've had a few table saws now and they all have their good and bad points. I am currently the proud owner of a startrite 275ds and it has proved very good so far, but I've been trying to do some smaller more accurate work on it.

The issue I have is when cutting at 90 degrees the blade seems to wobble a bit. The saw came with loads of blades but I picked up a 12" Metabo blade for cross cutting. Very nice, but the bore was too big so I used a reducing washer. The cut is 90 degrees but wavy with it.

I'm not sure if its not the entire internal assembly that has a bit of "bounce" to it.

Using one of the blades it came with massivly reduces the issue as these have the correct bore diameter.

Should I be able to get higly accurate mitre cuts straight from the saw? I have made a cross cut sled but the wobbly metabo blade made short work of ruining that.

I had a small Kity 419 before and hanker after is quiet precision using a cross cutting sled again.

Maybe I just need to get a descent blade with the correct 5/8" bore???

 

[Steve Maskery]

Hi Mick
Yes, it does sound like it is the blade that is the problem.
Go on, treat yourself
S

 

[mickthetree]

cheers steve.

Any suggestions?

 

[RogerP]

cheers steve.

Any suggestions?

I expect any of the top makes will be fine but I've found Freud blades about the best.

 

[andersonec]

Sounds like the blade is out of balance, I had the same problem once so ordered from Atkinson Walker, if they have not got one of what you want in stock they will manufacture one for you with the right bore. I also had one made with a specific kerf and flat teeth to cut slots for splines in boxes (£16) very helpful and very knowledgeable British company that manufacture blades of the highest quality, they may even sort your wobbly blade if it was an expensive one. It may be best to speak with someone.

The link to Workshop Heaven gives details on A W blades and explains (more clearly) which type suits which job.

http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools/Atk ... lades.html

Andy

 

[marcros]

was that £16 andy, or £16 extra?

The wealdon blades are manufactured by Atkinson Walker too- may save you a few pounds. Cutting solutions also worth a look.

 

[andersonec]

was that £16 andy, or £16 extra?

It was only a 16 tooth 8 inch blade with the teeth sharpened to a kerf of 2.8mm and with flat tops which gave me perfect flat bases to my spline slots, it only ever gets used for that purpose so doubt if it will ever wear out.

Andy

 

[Steve Maskery]

Doug Perry of Cutting Solutions (on here - not very often - as cutting-solutions) sells a range of good blades and they are all fairly priced. He will advise you on the right blade for the job.
I had a FTG one off him that was excellent. I'm currently using a Freud combination TK blade and love it, but it was brought back from the States for me and I've not seen it for sale over here.

 

[mickthetree]

Many thanks Steve.

The idea of "bounce" of the motor/tilt arbour assembly ring true? On this saw it is all hung of the pressed steel cabinet and not the table top. Has its pros and cons, but the two are not connected.

I'll pick up a new blade and do some experiments and report back.

 

[deema]

The Startrite is fairly rock solid there are three things that can affect the cut IMO
1. The actual blade is detailed.
2. The actual mounting of the blade, reducer rings can move and become lodged such that you are unable to tighten up the blade properly / the cheeks don't make contact with the blade properly
3. The spindle bearings are worn. With the power disconnected, and the drive belts removed (you cannot check if the belts are still in place) grab hold of the blade wearing protection for the pinkies and pull and push it. If it moves you have a bearing problem. Don't get too alarmed, there easy to replace and if (worst case) the spindle is scored you can get a replacement....a little pricey however.

 

[mickthetree]

Many thanks deema. I shall do that test this weekend.
I'm also going to check the flanges (I think that is the correct term) that sit either side of the blade on the arbour. Someone mentioned that if these have any knocks, debris in it could be causing misalignment.
I'm also going to order a new blade to rule that out of the equation.
Many thanks

 

[haroldteunsisen]

I just bought an TA 175. I was wondering, does anyone know you to adjust the rip fence? I could not find any adjustments.
It has an offset of around 1/32" front to back towards the saw blade (which squeezes the wood in the end).

Furthermore, does anyone tried to align the saw blade other than removing the spring dowels in the top, or by leveraging the saw arm with force...

 

[deema]

The fence should as a factory setting be c1/32 set away from the blade with the fence on the RHS of the blade. If your left handed, this is frustrating as you've probaly got the fence on the LHS (just a guess). There is no adjustment in the fence.

However you can easily shim the bar upon which the fence runs at one of the two points it attaches to the table. Alternatively, make the adjustment with the sacrificial fence attached to the fence I.e. Plane it down to a wedge to overcome the alignment issue.

As a general principle, if the fence is running away from the blade when on the RHS, I would keep it exactly as it is. This reduces the risk of anything getting trapped; far safer.

 

[haroldteunsisen]

I am running the fence RHS most of the time so 1/32" inwards resulting in "trapping" the wood. Flipping the roller (a bit worn) at the back of the fence seemed to have fixed the offset. The fence now locks square.

Now I only have to align the saw blade... which is approx 1/64" off... Not sure if I am pushing the limits of accuracy on this machine...

The sacrificial fence is a good idea! thanks.

 

[blackrodd]

Startrite are, as mentioned by other owner/users, Excellent quality machines.
You don't say what timber species you're test piece was, or what teeth on the test saw blade.
I think the problem is with the blade being blunt, burnt, losing it's temper, or the wrong tooth in use.
If there was a problem with the flanges each side as the arbour, as mentioned earlier, the blade would be very loose.
and not cut at all.
Mention of the arbour spacer is very relevent, as they can be a very nuisance to try and fit properly,
Bearings are worth a look, like the man said, and make a note of the drive belt tension and also the drive belt numbers,
If possible, When you need them, you may be able to buy any replacements locally and cheaper.
Use the other blades, try some more, ripping and cross cutting.
As if they prove to be useless, you will want to throw them out!

I'm behind on this one!
Regards Rodders

 

[haroldteunsisen]

I am measuring the position of the blade against the left mitre slot. Regardless of the blade or timber this should be parallel in my opinion. Btw. I am using a 10" 40T "general purpose" blade. Tomorrow I will try with a new ripping blade to test the squareness. And check all the points you mentioned. I replaced the belts already last week. Tension is as described in the manual "quarter twist between thumb and forefinger"...

Thanks directing me to the other points, yes it is an excellent machine, but it has over 25 years of usage behind it.

Harold

 

[Steve Maskery]

I agree with you that the fence should be parallel. Yes, setting a tiny gap at the far RH side is helpful for ripping, but it is not helpful if you are crosscutting or doing any other operation where you required workpiece is on the LH side of the blade, such as cutting the tenon vertically, for example. In those cases, the 1/32" gap is a hindrance rather than a help.
You are on the right lines, I think.
S