condeesteso
Established Member
I appreciate there are plenty of threads about bench builds here already, so I will not be at all offended if you skip past this. It may be a long one (time certainly, up there with Richard T's infill thread :lol:
I'll try and make it interesting - decisions and why, how some tools and machines performed, problems, etc
First, the BRIEF:
My ideal bench - hand-tools, furniture making. (I know there is no ONE perfect bench, but we try to get as close as possible, and minimise the compromises).
A bench to me is: a rock-solid flat worktop that serves to fix vices to it. It has dog-holes to fix work to, and it's at an optimum height.
Size - approx 8' x 22", 34" high. (Imperial because that is how I think about bench sizes)
material: ash throughout, top 92mm thick (about 3 1/2"), legs 5"x 4", horizontals 4 x 2, with 6 x 2 upper front for dog-holes
vices: twin screw front, 36" long with screws at 22" centres (clear 20" between). Screws from bigwoodvise, Shaker style.
tail vice - between the Veritas Q/R tail, or the BenchCrafted - really stuck on this and need to commit very soon. There is at least 4 weeks wait on the BenchCrafted, making the decision even worse. And please don't think 'money to burn' - I really don't have, this is a big expensive decision for me.
Construction: the base will be jointed (mainly through tenons, wedged), but the top will be removable - fixed is marginally better but we may move one day, and I may need to re-engineer the top also - so on balance, removable top, but very firmly fixed to base. I estimate weight will be around 170Kg, before vices.
I got the ash about 2 months ago, and prepped it to slightly oversize. 15 lengths of 92 x 50 x 8'6" (I'm mixing metric and imperial just for fun, but that's the way it was all cut!) - this is the top plus 3 pieces spare - pick the best for the top, the rest for stretchers etc. The top will be approx 12 pcs, and actually they planed out to around 45 - 50mm. Only the front 2 laminates are exactly 50mm for various reasons regarding front vice structure, front leg location etc.
I'm happy the ash is very stable in the workshop, and hasn't moved significantly since ripped from wide boards - any movement is more stress relief than humidity change I'm sure.
Legs are 2 off 5 x 2" each (so 5 x 4") - they were cut and planed at the same time.
The top will probably end up 90mm, allowing a mere 2mm for final flattening once fully assembled.
Front vice - I have never used a twin-screw, and seriously considered a leg vice... but I have 2 screws! Actually, I think I'll get along with it fine, but will have to adapt of course. I've found out how to virtually eliminate vertical racking - will sort that later. It needs some horizontal racking as that is a part of the benefit, and also you need to be able to adjust the screws one at a time. I think it is: stock held in right hand, left hand to rough adjust back screw up, then tighten front screw, tweak back screw if necessary. It sounds a faff, but the pitch is considerable, so I think I'll get fairly quick at it. But if I don't like it... re-engineer the top!!
Here's some pics, incl one with the hand-tools I've used most so far. I love the Japanese marking knife; the Lie block plane and scraper for cleaning joints (some wild grain in there), the Lie 7 1/2 is outstanding for truing edges of tops. I found it very difficult to get the long boards truly straight on my planer - I can imagine those American ones with long beds must be easier - but they always have more space! The old Stanley chisel gets used for paring a lot - not sure really what it is as it's like a thickish paring chisel - but it's a favourite. The Record No4 is very good with some of the tricky grain, a great smoother. And the 4" sliding square is a Rolson, about £8, and I use it way more than the 6" Starrett that cost about 8 times more!!
So far the bandsaw (RP500) has been invaluable, but really tricky handling 10" x 2" boards often 9' long or more, single-handed. The Sheppach 260 has performed well, again tricky handling those sizes single-handed. The Appleby Woodturning blades (£14 a pair) have been very impressive indeed. Chip extraction is poor - using a RP4000 but a lot ends up on the floor. I know the RP4000 is really for dust, but I don't want a dedicated chip extractor too - they take up valuable floor space.
The table saw has been used a bit - mainly cutting tenon shoulders (Scheppach 2500ci). The Festool Kapex has been vital for cross-cutting to accurate length. Expensive but really very good indeed - the blade is excellent (as it should be at about £90!!).
Anyway, will keep you posted... but tail vice has to be obtained as it is holding the whole thing up.
I'll try and make it interesting - decisions and why, how some tools and machines performed, problems, etc
First, the BRIEF:
My ideal bench - hand-tools, furniture making. (I know there is no ONE perfect bench, but we try to get as close as possible, and minimise the compromises).
A bench to me is: a rock-solid flat worktop that serves to fix vices to it. It has dog-holes to fix work to, and it's at an optimum height.
Size - approx 8' x 22", 34" high. (Imperial because that is how I think about bench sizes)
material: ash throughout, top 92mm thick (about 3 1/2"), legs 5"x 4", horizontals 4 x 2, with 6 x 2 upper front for dog-holes
vices: twin screw front, 36" long with screws at 22" centres (clear 20" between). Screws from bigwoodvise, Shaker style.
tail vice - between the Veritas Q/R tail, or the BenchCrafted - really stuck on this and need to commit very soon. There is at least 4 weeks wait on the BenchCrafted, making the decision even worse. And please don't think 'money to burn' - I really don't have, this is a big expensive decision for me.
Construction: the base will be jointed (mainly through tenons, wedged), but the top will be removable - fixed is marginally better but we may move one day, and I may need to re-engineer the top also - so on balance, removable top, but very firmly fixed to base. I estimate weight will be around 170Kg, before vices.
I got the ash about 2 months ago, and prepped it to slightly oversize. 15 lengths of 92 x 50 x 8'6" (I'm mixing metric and imperial just for fun, but that's the way it was all cut!) - this is the top plus 3 pieces spare - pick the best for the top, the rest for stretchers etc. The top will be approx 12 pcs, and actually they planed out to around 45 - 50mm. Only the front 2 laminates are exactly 50mm for various reasons regarding front vice structure, front leg location etc.
I'm happy the ash is very stable in the workshop, and hasn't moved significantly since ripped from wide boards - any movement is more stress relief than humidity change I'm sure.
Legs are 2 off 5 x 2" each (so 5 x 4") - they were cut and planed at the same time.
The top will probably end up 90mm, allowing a mere 2mm for final flattening once fully assembled.
Front vice - I have never used a twin-screw, and seriously considered a leg vice... but I have 2 screws! Actually, I think I'll get along with it fine, but will have to adapt of course. I've found out how to virtually eliminate vertical racking - will sort that later. It needs some horizontal racking as that is a part of the benefit, and also you need to be able to adjust the screws one at a time. I think it is: stock held in right hand, left hand to rough adjust back screw up, then tighten front screw, tweak back screw if necessary. It sounds a faff, but the pitch is considerable, so I think I'll get fairly quick at it. But if I don't like it... re-engineer the top!!
Here's some pics, incl one with the hand-tools I've used most so far. I love the Japanese marking knife; the Lie block plane and scraper for cleaning joints (some wild grain in there), the Lie 7 1/2 is outstanding for truing edges of tops. I found it very difficult to get the long boards truly straight on my planer - I can imagine those American ones with long beds must be easier - but they always have more space! The old Stanley chisel gets used for paring a lot - not sure really what it is as it's like a thickish paring chisel - but it's a favourite. The Record No4 is very good with some of the tricky grain, a great smoother. And the 4" sliding square is a Rolson, about £8, and I use it way more than the 6" Starrett that cost about 8 times more!!
So far the bandsaw (RP500) has been invaluable, but really tricky handling 10" x 2" boards often 9' long or more, single-handed. The Sheppach 260 has performed well, again tricky handling those sizes single-handed. The Appleby Woodturning blades (£14 a pair) have been very impressive indeed. Chip extraction is poor - using a RP4000 but a lot ends up on the floor. I know the RP4000 is really for dust, but I don't want a dedicated chip extractor too - they take up valuable floor space.
The table saw has been used a bit - mainly cutting tenon shoulders (Scheppach 2500ci). The Festool Kapex has been vital for cross-cutting to accurate length. Expensive but really very good indeed - the blade is excellent (as it should be at about £90!!).
Anyway, will keep you posted... but tail vice has to be obtained as it is holding the whole thing up.
But I like the plane too much...
