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NazNomad

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.... but I have spent the afternoon extolling the virtues of polycarbonate.

Best thing is, I don't have to make any more mess with that poxy Padauk. :-D

Also, I can now go over to LED battens.

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That's two epic fails out of two lately, is it just bad luck or am I doing something wrong. I was taking the lightest of cuts with the tool too.
 
Do you know if the blank split as it left the chuck or was the total split due to an impact along the way.

Assuming you were attempting to hollow the item I would say that holding on that very narrow socket rim was the reason for it leaving the chuck, there is virtually no cross grain strength left in that narrow foot flange and was the socket a little to shallow so that the blank was not hard up against the accessory jaw outer flange. (for maximum support)
 
design opportunity? sand the mating surfaces flat, sandwich back together with a. piece of veneer in between.

trouble is, if you do that, you are going to have to do some more hollowing!
 
Does the inner face you were cutting show a deep gouge from a tool Catch?
 
I think there was a slight split in it, which due to a slightly over-tightened chuck caused it to fly apart. The socket was just the right depth and it seated lovely. As you say it was probably too thin in diameter where the chuck was gripping it.

There was no catch, it flew apart when the tool was away from the piece.

I expect it was just a compounded comedy of errors. Just lucky that I wasn't showered in glass.

I've glued it back together, I'll bung it back on a faceplate and redo the bottom with just a recess with no rim. Shame to waste it because it's a lovely looking piece of wood.
 
Anyway... today's lesson children.

If you must have fluorescent tubes in a workshop make sure they hide behind a tough cover.
 
NazNomad":1mzid1vr said:
There was no catch, it flew apart when the tool was away from the piece.

Then check very thoroughly that the piece does not have more Ring Shakes that might let go.
Try not to tie yourself in to finished foot profile before reversing to hollow, much safer to leave excessive material and reduce diameter and/or shape the foot when reversed.
soket.jpg
 

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I'll most likely not do a foot next time, I'll just leave the recess.
 
marcros":h5kke3aw said:
design opportunity? sand the mating surfaces flat, sandwich back together with a. piece of veneer in between.

trouble is, if you do that, you are going to have to do some more hollowing!


Definite design opportunity - square off the break and you have two books ends (whether you want them or not :))
There will be other ideas coming, I'm sure

Brian
 
Well, returned the outside but when I flipped it round the glue joint wasn't going to hold well enough with the chuck pushing it apart.

I'm going to slice up the blank and use it to make something orange on the scroll saw. :-D

There is no waste, there is just a plan B.
 
I have had a few fails when I've been turning bowls with a recess and the chuck is holding with ourward pressure. I got my brain cell turning over about it and came up with the idea that if I had the recess, BUT with a dovetail tennon within that recess then instead of outward pressure I would still have the same foot, but the chuck would be holding with inwards pressure and holding the grenade to gether instead of trying to explode it!!

It works a real treat and a couple of quite well spalted 3 dimentional jigsaw puzzles that I caused, found the bits and glued back together have gone on to become nice bowls/dishes. Just make sure that the tenon is not proud of the foot and Bob's the proverbial uncle! :mrgreen:
 
I don't throw anything away, it'll keep me in keyring blanks for ages. :)
 

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