90RPM can be scary! - and some saw advice please

[big soft moose]

FWIW, the local machinery dealers will only sell top handle saws to person who can produce the relevant certificates, whereas they will sell rear handles to anyone.
Not sure why - The Moose may know!

probably because , as richardhead above is demonstrating, you can use the top handle one handed (not a good move in most circumstances - but it can be done) - so the risk of unskilled accident is higher.

also tbh the top handle is a piece of proffesional kit - theres no need for an amateur to have one.

My local chainsaw dealer wont sell or hire any kind of chainsaw to anyone unless they produce relevant certification (by which they mean at least NPTC CS30 or the lantra equivalent)

that said while it protects the dealer from litigation - untrained people can still just pop into B&Q or buy one off ebay so its a fairly pointless propsition in the larger scheme of things

 

[big soft moose]

as far as cambourne pete goes i'd suggest something like this

(the nearest decent one i could find to cambourne)

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/stihl-chainsaw-MS ... 2a0ae5542f

also see here for protective equip (nowhere near cambourne but they ship)

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CHAINSAW-PROTECTI ... 1c1632c667

 

[Jonzjob]

I have had no professional training as such, but a lot of info from pros that I know and the knowledge that if a saw can cut through a huge log with not a lot of effort then human, or any other, flesh and bone is a doddle.

I have the trousers, boots, gloves, ear defenders that stop the noise of military jet engines and my normal glasses are safety glasses. I don't do any more than cutting wood down to the size I want, helping neighbours to clear downed trees and the like. If it looks as if it will be difficult I leave it to the pros and I still have all me bits!

I find it a bind at times when I have to cut a few branches and have to put me gear on, but I always do it! Or I get my Ryobi One reciprocating saw on a 2 metre stick and use that and work on the principle that at a couple of meters away I am doing as I have been told, to keep away from work :shock:

 

[big soft moose]

I have the trousers, boots, gloves, ear defenders that stop the noise of military jet engines and my normal glasses are safety glasses.

you really need a fullface visor , or a chainsaw helmet - safety glases arent adequate

otherwise you are running the risk of winding up like this guy (who looks to have been incredibly lucky not to loose an eye)

 

[big soft moose]

some good general advice on saw use here

 

[mtt.tr]

Off topic but this is so funny/ scary
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oCDcTxFUkk

 

[boysie39]

Blister has one of these :lol:

http://www.abbeypro.co.uk/subprod/husqv ... 01017.aspx


:wink:

to go with his saw and the rest of the PPE :lol:

 

[duncanh]

Something else you should do :-

before every session check that the anti kick-back/inertia brake is working.

At the end of the training course which I did they gave a demo of how effective this is at stopping kick-back very quickly.
Never use a saw without it or where it is damaged or where it doesn't work. If you follow best practice then you probably shouldn't get kick-back but if you do get it then you want the brake to work.

 

[cambournepete]

Just to complete the story on the chainsaw...

I have decided to chicken out, and have bought the Hitachi reciprocating saw, now I just need to choose some blades, for which I'll post a separate thread in the advice section.

Anyone want a used B&D chainsaw that leaks oil?

 

[UnicycleBloke]

My word! That bloke in the treee is an silly person. I already have some tools which could do me some very serious harm, and treat them with enormous respect. I suspect a chainsaw is in the pipeline, but I won't be doing anything without full safety gear.

One thing, chain saws seem to have a right-hand bias. Since I'm a southpaw, this could be an issue. I can use scissors without leaking claret, but it is often uncomfortable to do so. If chainsaws are like that, such as the blade being uncomfortably close to my left leg, or the controls out of reach, maybe I should think again. Or become dextro...


Al

 

[big soft moose]

One thing, chain saws seem to have a right-hand bias. Since I'm a southpaw, this could be an issue. I can use scissors without leaking claret, but it is often uncomfortable to do so. If chainsaws are like that, such as the blade being uncomfortably close to my left leg, or the controls out of reach, maybe I should think again. Or become dextro...


Al

chainsaws are a two handed thing anyway - your right is on the trigger control and your left is on the front handle guiding the saw and working the chainbrake - therefore there is no need for a southpaw to reverse the hand positions and you'll soon get used to it

 

[Melinda_dd]

I'm scared of my baby mini lathe, not even gonna consider a chainsaw for about 100yrs!!!

 

[cambournepete]

Finally used the reciprocating saw to cut a log today.
Yes it's slower than a chainsaw, but much less scary so I'm happy

<PS it's my thread so I can resurrect it when I like! :wink:>