scooby
Established Member
I've read the coarser waterstones, such as the 240 grit, take more effort to flatten. Will the method of using drywall screen or wet & dry work ok?
240 grit waterstone
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Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)
Established Member
I have a 220 King waterstone. I flatten it on 220 grit drywall screen.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Regards from Perth
Derek
JesseM
Established Member
Do you like your 220? It may be the wider blades of #8 and #4 1/2 but my stone dishes really fast. This stone has made more negative work for me than any other. I have a kinda worn DMT which I use to check the bevel periodically, and I always have dish out after using the 220. :x
I think it works fine on narrower blades.
Scooby,
At least for me the norton 220 grit is fairly easy to flatten. I use my worn out DMT.
A
Anonymous
Guest
I have a 240 and stopped using it pretty soon after purchase as it dished REALLY quickly (my 1000 and 6000 take about 20 times longer before they need flattening), wore down far too quickly and doesn't cut as well as my DMT course stone.
I wouldn't bother with the 240, buy a DMT instead and nver flatten it :wink:
I wouldn't bother with the 240, buy a DMT instead and nver flatten it :wink:
David C
In Memorium
I too have been distinctly unhappy with the speed at which extra coarse waterstones go out of shape.
David Charlesworth
David Charlesworth
scooby
Established Member
Tony":32jcujrk said:
How long is really quickly? I just something to remove nicks and forms a new bevel every so often, so I don't think I'll be using it day in day out.
I don't want to use a bench grinder when my new chisels and plane irons turn up, as it get the metal very hot very quickly
Only problem is a DMT stone is about 40 euro's more than the 240 grit waterstone I am thinking of ordering (both at Dieter Schmid's) and they wear out with use as opposed to a waterstone always having a new layer of abrasive.
To be honest if the 240 grit waterstones don't require tons of elbow grease to flatten I don't think it'll bother me too much having to do so often, hopefully.
But now I don't know what to buy :?
A
Anonymous
Guest
scooby":350b4g8g said:
Well, I can sharpen (hone) 5 plane blades on the 6000 without flattening it. I cannot work for more than a minute on the 240 without the need to flatten it and typically might have to flatten it a couple of times for one blade. These stones are a waste of money in my opinion but the higher grit waterstones work very nicely
David C
In Memorium
This is a difficult one.
240 grit waterstones do remove metal fast and do go out of shape fast, but will be easy to flatten (even on a concrete block).
I keep searching for a waterstone which will remove metal significantly faster than an 800 King, without losing shape too quickly.
Coarse al ox paper will also remove metal fast, as will beltsander.
I am disapointed with the speed of metal removal on DMT black, which sounded like the perfect answer.
David Charlesworth
240 grit waterstones do remove metal fast and do go out of shape fast, but will be easy to flatten (even on a concrete block).
I keep searching for a waterstone which will remove metal significantly faster than an 800 King, without losing shape too quickly.
Coarse al ox paper will also remove metal fast, as will beltsander.
I am disapointed with the speed of metal removal on DMT black, which sounded like the perfect answer.
David Charlesworth
Alf
Established Member
Coarse diamond paste?
Cheers, Alf
Cheers, Alf
JesseM
Established Member
I recently bought a Shapton 220 GlassStones and am impressed by how it wears. Though I still get some dishing with my wider blades. Flattening is as easy as a waterstone. I am still undecided if its better than my DMT.David C":2myz0c41 said:
JesseM
Established Member
Its a comany that makes nice diamond stones. Here is a link to the duosharp's which have diamond on 2 sides.Keefaz":2kbxgdg3 said:
http://www.dmtsharp.com/products/duosharp.htm
Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)
Established Member
Scooby asked
I have not used it much. Generally it is easier to grind blades on my belt sander. The 220 was cheap and I bought it more out of curiosity than anything. One major use has been the flattening of a thick blade for an infill. I was pleasantly surprised how well it remained flat. Having said that, I was working on the back of a blade and not the bevel. This probably minimised wear.
The full description is here:
http://www.wkfinetools.com/restore/inFillSmoother/renovInfillSmooth4.asp
Regards from Perth
Derek
I have not used it much. Generally it is easier to grind blades on my belt sander. The 220 was cheap and I bought it more out of curiosity than anything. One major use has been the flattening of a thick blade for an infill. I was pleasantly surprised how well it remained flat. Having said that, I was working on the back of a blade and not the bevel. This probably minimised wear.
The full description is here:
http://www.wkfinetools.com/restore/inFillSmoother/renovInfillSmooth4.asp
Regards from Perth
Derek
David C
In Memorium
JesseM,
Thank you, coincidentally also playing with 220 glasstone!
David
Thank you, coincidentally also playing with 220 glasstone!
David
Mirboo
Established Member
I have a 220 grit waterstone. I don't use it much and yes it does wear quickly. I bought it because I don't have or have access to any powered means of metal removal (ie. bench grinder, belt sander) and so it is my "quick" :shock: method of metal removal.
The quick rate at which the stone wears doesn't, in my view, cause too much of a problem because it is not the stone that I use for final forming of the primary bevel. For example, the last time I used my 220 grit stone I was converting a 10mm chisel from square into one with a 15 degree skew. The 220 stone dished quickly and I flattened it a few times during this process but the fact that it left a cambered edge on the chisel due to the dishing wasn't a problem. After rough shaping on the 220 stone I took the chisel to the 1000 grit stone and straightened out the cambered edge quite quickly. I achieved the end result much more quickly than if I didn't have a 220 grit stone.
The quick rate at which the stone wears doesn't, in my view, cause too much of a problem because it is not the stone that I use for final forming of the primary bevel. For example, the last time I used my 220 grit stone I was converting a 10mm chisel from square into one with a 15 degree skew. The 220 stone dished quickly and I flattened it a few times during this process but the fact that it left a cambered edge on the chisel due to the dishing wasn't a problem. After rough shaping on the 220 stone I took the chisel to the 1000 grit stone and straightened out the cambered edge quite quickly. I achieved the end result much more quickly than if I didn't have a 220 grit stone.
scooby
Established Member
To avoid opening a new thread, could I just deviate from the main topic for a moment?
Firstly, thanks for all the advice. It is really appreciated. It's good to be aware how quickly coarser waterstones hollow.
As I mentioned I will be using the 220 grit to remove nicks from chisels and plane irons. I hone free hand but will be using a honing guide on the 220 stone so I don't end up with a convex primary bevel. So this is where my questioned is aimed.
I currently have an Eclipse honing guide, the type everyone owns or has at least seen. Next week I'm going to order 1 or 2 oire nomi chisels and due to their shorter blade length am I wondering will they fit into the Eclipse honing guide or will I have to purchase a different guide?
Firstly, thanks for all the advice. It is really appreciated. It's good to be aware how quickly coarser waterstones hollow.
As I mentioned I will be using the 220 grit to remove nicks from chisels and plane irons. I hone free hand but will be using a honing guide on the 220 stone so I don't end up with a convex primary bevel. So this is where my questioned is aimed.
I currently have an Eclipse honing guide, the type everyone owns or has at least seen. Next week I'm going to order 1 or 2 oire nomi chisels and due to their shorter blade length am I wondering will they fit into the Eclipse honing guide or will I have to purchase a different guide?
David C
In Memorium
Scooby,
They don't fit well at all but I usually managed somehow! Not too concerned if the chisel does not fit well into the guide. It may be twisted relative to the registration surface, but one can still eyeball the angle against a line drawn on the edge of a block of wood.
The only purpouse of the guide is to maintain an angle, and I put very little weight on the guide. Forefingers near the edge apply the force.
There will be an eclipse modification in my third book, out in a month or so, which makes room for the thicker temple carpenters style.
Best wishes,
David Charlesworth
They don't fit well at all but I usually managed somehow! Not too concerned if the chisel does not fit well into the guide. It may be twisted relative to the registration surface, but one can still eyeball the angle against a line drawn on the edge of a block of wood.
The only purpouse of the guide is to maintain an angle, and I put very little weight on the guide. Forefingers near the edge apply the force.
There will be an eclipse modification in my third book, out in a month or so, which makes room for the thicker temple carpenters style.
Best wishes,
David Charlesworth
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