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These guys have a spare parts listing and diagram but the part is £96 http://www.mtmc.co.uk/Spare-Parts/Dewal ... 56744.aspx

Yes - you can get cheap generic paper bags for some Rowenta vacuums that are a good fit for the Trend T30, they're not as thick or as well made as the Trend bags but they are a lot cheaper, I last bought some 3 years ago and I've lost the labels but I think the two types I tried were: Rowenta...

Can't comment on that particular set but I found the Silverline straight bits very poor. Using a 6mm bit and taking shallow passes in pine I had a number of them shear off, fortunately they tended to embed themselves in the work piece rather than fly off toward me. Since then I switched to...

I'd try something like a 3 tpi, skip tooth blade. It will give a rough sawn finish but the fewer teeth and bigger gullets are more suited to shifting the saw dust when ripping.

I've got the Ryobi ECS-1214N. It's not bad, you can use the cheap palm sander sheets from Toolstation but need to use the supplied punch and some scissors to make some extra dust extraction holes. The dust extraction filter bag wasn't great and let fine stuff through but it works well hooked up...

Depends on what tools you have and intend to get. I started with portable power tools and bought a Trend T30AF (with the fine filter), it's a HPLV unit, like a shop vac and works very well but then I bought a bench-top planer thicknesser and a band saw - it doesn't have enough throughput to...

Slightly off topic but have you painted the walls? My garage was gray breeze block and with a single 6ft tube was very dark/dull, a couple of coats of white paint on the walls and glossy gray floor paint and it's made a huge difference, much nicer environment. Definitely worth doing if you've...

The other thing to consider - have you got a decent vacuum with a fine filter for connecting to the sanders to stop the dust getting air-borne in the first place? I was using my sanders with the built-in dust box/filter and from the amount of dust my face mask was picking up they weren't doing...

The panel saw makes B&Q handy - some of the sheds charge stupid prices for cut down sheets, Wickes wanted £30 for a quarter sheet of 18mm plywood.

Another option is to screw them down - I've just laid a small (~9 sq m) area of strip oak flooring and as a DIYer without a secret-nailer used Tongue-tite screws - fine screws designed for screwing through the tongue like the nails. They're not cheap at ~£6 - £10 per 200 but not too bad for a...

I've seen printable veneer advertised, I don't know how thick it is but I assume it must be pretty thin to go through a standard inkjet printer: http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/.W ... 000023.htm (BTW - I've not ordered this product or from this company) [EDIT] I wonder if there's another...

I wondered if anyone here has used the Sika Liquid batten system or similar flooring adhesive products for gluing solid timber flooring onto a concrete subfloor and whether they had any feed back on performance and longevity? Following a rush of blood to the head I've bought 20m2 of solid oak...

I think it's a local temperature issue at the back of the cupboard - it's a Victorian property with solid walls rather than cavity, so whilst the room is heated I expect this area could get quite cold, particularly given that the unit is filled with drawers which restricts air circulation in the...

I wondered, given the number of kitchen projects on the forum, if anyone had any experience on the best way to solve condensation problems in kitchen cabinets? I made a drawer-line type sink base unit for a relative, it was made from 18mm WBP plywood, mounted against a double thickness but...

Biscuits definitely add strength - I've got a book with an article testing their performance for joinery for full sized doors. It compared butt joints with 2 or 3 biscuits, against tongue and groove joints reinforced with either a loose tenon or a mortise and tenon. The biscuits came out...

Depend on what kit you've got or intend to get, the dual motor DX4000 or DX5000 might be more future proof - more suck if you want to use it with a small planer-thicknesser.

It's surprising how much of a difference the right blade makes - for resawing or rough cutting through thick stock it's worth getting a blade with widely spaced teeth and large gullets - something like a 3 tpi skip-tooth blade.

I've been working my way through a 5L bottle of Bondloc D3 PVA over the past 18 months, slightly more expensive at £9.50 from Toolstation. Only used it for indoor work, biscuit joints, small frame and panel doors etc, no problems with joint strength and no issues with mould to date. I've found...

I guess it depends on how portable you need it to be, but if it's staying in the workshop and you think you may expand your range of fixed kit I'd consider a twin motor extractor like a DX4000 or DX5000. They're around ~£270 but they're potentially more future proof as they are LVHP like the...

As it's plastic you might be able to cut through it with a hot blade - some soldering guns come with a plastic cutting/melting attachment for cutting sheet plastic.