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Not specifically, no. At the risk of starting something it was made because there appears to be a widely circulated myth in woodworking fora that if it hasn't happened to me (yet) then it can't/won't happen, etc. when logic often dictates otherwise. But what do you call a large section? If your...

Forget the pocket hole screws - they're quite weak especially with MDF. Go instead for black carcass screws - cheap and work well and are used in a heck of a lot of shop fitting work. They'll be hidden at the backs of units and by the face frame in any case. The idea of pre-making carcasses is...

Really? Then why is it such a recurring topic of conversation on almost every US forum you read (do a search for Richard Jones and Barb Siddiqui and you'll even find a published article or two by member SgainDubh on the subject, like this one). In Europe it's not so much legislation, but...

The slat wall inserts are shaped like the outline of a letter "J" in cross section so it should be possible to spring them out from the top edge unless they're glued or painted in for some reason. Have you tried knocking them out from one side with a wooden "drift"? If you're really stuck you...

I agree with others about the number of teeth for ripping, but a small point about maple, sycamore and beech - when cross-cutting it's better to use a newer blade with the correct clearance angles on the teeth. Worn or many times sharpened blades seem to cause burning on cross cuts with those...

And a skew rebate block in a spindle moulder will do even better. For anyone who hasn't tried them CMT (and others) do both skew and spiral cutters for routers which cut much cleaner than a straight router cutter

Mayeb so, but it's always best to cover one's arris! :lol:

In my experience they're generally what you can cut on a chop saw with a bit of extra work with the hand saw, so more like 3 to 5in long. The problem with using wedges is that you need to ensure they don't twist the legs of the casing. Try using one form each side and the problem is one of...

The term you're searching for is "free air delivery". This is normally only quoted by the larger (and therefore more expensive) manufacturers Direct drive is normally only used on smaller compressors up to about 3 or 4HP. Seems to me that above that the starting resistance becomes too much for...

Ian The point about oscillating sanders, be they bobbins or vertical belt is that you get much more sanding out of the belt before it "loads up". That's why they're commonly used in productionm woodworking. But at the end of the day these cannot accommodate a 3D curve. To sand that you'll need...

I've worked with a few people who've got them. As someone else says they're the same as the older blue models, only red - but the other difference is that they seem to have have a cheaper, slower battery charger than the blue models they are derived from

Unfortunately, yes, other brands can suffer from this. Even the mighty Festool (which start quite tight in my experience) which uses TWO connector bars isn't immune. Would it, though? And does it really matter that much? In use you'll end up dinging the corners and possibly even chew off a bit...

Perhaps what is needed is for some enterprising manufacturer to come up with a "battery pack" which is in fact a 240/110 volt mains to 18/24/36 volt DC converter so that a saw could be used as mains or cordless

That's because any arbor run out is magnified more by larger blades and the larger the blade the more both it and the frame of the machine tend to flex. I've used both the LS1013 and the LS1214 side-by-side and I can testify to the 12in saw flexing more noticeably on large compound bevel cuts...

Sharpening them - a bit too often. Put simply they don't hold an edge terribly well, especially on hardwoods.

Wadkin still exists (after a fashion) and are at: Franks Road Hilltop Industrial Estate Bardon Leicestershire LE 67 1TT Tel. 01530 513 500

So it should be. Been around ages (started life as the Elu MOF1877e back in the 1980s), relatively little to go wrong and repairable if it ever does (try getting spares for Freud, Ryobi or Makita and you'll see what I mean). Big and powerful, but not well made and with some annoying limitations...

Then why not put a longer flex on the saw? I've done that with a few of my tools and it makes working on long pieces a lot easier As far as cordless stuff goes I've got to say I'm with RogerS on this one - cordless saws are a bit gutless and eat batteries. OK if you've got loads to spare, but a...

I think the older book was good as far as it went, for example where else can you find any reference on saddle or double saddle work (i.e curved in one or two planes)? Main problem with it is that it is really dated, pre-dating even the 1974 woodworking regs, so a lot of the tooling information...

Not used the B&Q, but I have used American guillotine laminate shears a few times to lay laminate floors (assume that's what you're talking about). Laminate knocks the edges off TCT blades double quick whilst a guillotine cutter is generally resharpenable and makes a lot less mess and dust than...