Walker Turner Bandsaw- Help!

[liam8223]

I have an old Walker Turner bandsaw, and I am debating gettting rid, mainly because the guides don't seem very accurate, it doesn't cut straight, I think the tyres need re doing, and it has no fence.

I know it sounds like scrap, but its in good nick, its old and completely cast iron and if i can improve it, rather than spending more dollar that would be my preferred route.

Basically, can anyone give advice on guides, redoing the tyres, and a decent fence setup?

I am proficient at welding, engineering etc, so any ideas will be welcome, even if it involves me making from scratch.

Thanks in advance.

Liam.

 

[Mr Ed]

This article from David Charlesworth may help, as it tackles similar issues to those you are facing;

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/artic ... _Band_Saw/

Hope that helps, Ed.

 

[dickm]

Personally, I'd not even think of getting rid of a machine like that

All the faults you mention are likely to be relatively easy to correct, or are just a "feature" of bandsaws (like not cutting parallel to a full length fence). The only one that would concern me is the tyres, and I'm sure someone on the forum has given instructions on re-tyring if all else fails.

If you can do metalwork, give it a go - sure you won't regret it.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Don't even think of getting rid! I bet it has a rigidity seldom seen on modern machines.

You can make a fence using a piece of 2" angle iron bolted along the front and 2x1 box-section arm as a fence (fastened with a toggle clamp) to which you can fix a fine adjusting home-made fence. If you use slots to attach it you can compensate for drift, too, although it is much better to eliminate drift altogether, and that is usually quite achievable.

In what blade are the guides inadequate? They should be flat-faced (if they aren't dress them) as should the thrust bearing (ditto). They should be set to support the blade back without touching the teeth.

The only thing I can't really advise you on is replacing the tyres, as I've never had to do it, but you can dress the tyres that are on it if they are badly grooved. It takes a while but all you need is a sanding block and some 60G.

It sounds to me that all your woes are fixable.

HTH
Steve
PS if you want a professional restoration, Dalton's in Nottingham do a fine job, I've seen their work. No idea on cost, though.

 

[9fingers]

Bandsaw can be re-tyred using automotive poly V belts used on most cars <15 years old to drive the alternator/steering pump/airconditioning as a source of material.
Clean off the old tyre and adhesive. Dryfit the new rubber with a little extra, say 50mm length to spare. Scarf one end such that when the wheel rotates the scarf joint will close.
I have seen people recommend using both flat face out and flat face to the wheel. The latter makes crowning easier and may give better grip in the presence of fine dust:?:
Clean wheel rim and belt with alcohol/acetone/cellulose thinners but nothing that will leave an oily residue
Use real mans spirit based evostick on both wheel and belt in the usual way.
When this has dried, trim off the excess to complete the scarfed joint with a little more evostick holding the joint open with a matchstick until the glue is tacky.

If your bandwheels are interchangeable, then fit the wheel to the driven hub, override any door interlocks and crown the wheel with a sanding block and medium grit paper 60 - 80. Swap wheels and crown the other one (or two in the case of a three wheeler).
Don't forget to remove the interlock overriders before fitting a blade.

Bearings are readily available in both imperial and metric sizes. I invariably use http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/ for an excellent range and good service (no connection disclaimer!)

hth

Bob

 

[liam8223]

Thanks Steve!
Was hoping i'd get an answer from you, knowing you're up on bandsaws etc.

Very grateful for other replies too, and you have put the idea in my head to keep it, its what i want really!

Now.......

Been in the 'shop for about 3 hours, playing with the bandsaw.

First fault is that the top wheel bearings are very noisy and have excess play, no probs, down to Bearing Centre.

Second fault is the tyres are very badly pitted.

Apart from that I think that it will track up ok.

Sorted the blade length with the replies from the other thread., thanks also everyone.

The blade is 96 1/2"

Can anyone point me in the right direction for blades?
I want to resaw some oak and general work, tenons etc.

As for the tip with the fence steve, can instructions be found on your new dvd?

All help greatly appreciated, this place really is brilliant!

Cheers,
Liam.

 

[9fingers]

Liam,

Axcaliber blades from Axminster are getting positive comments from users. They are making them themselves I think and the product is much better than their earlier bought in stock of a year or so ago.

There is a new supplier doing prototype product testing but he is not ready to sell yet so don't buy too much stock from Axy.

Bob

 

[Steve Maskery]

Hi Liam
The fine adjuster fence to which I refer is indeed on Workshop Essentials 4, Bandsaw Essentials. You do need a fixed fence in place though, so if yours hasn't got one (in which case how do you know it doesn't saw straight?) then I suggest you use this as a starting point. It's designed for a tablesaw, but there is no reason why it could not be built for a bandsaw. You could then fix my fine adjuster fence to that. It would be an excellent and inexpensive solution.

Cheers
Steve

 

[dickm]

Hi Liam
I suggest you use this as a starting point. It's designed for a tablesaw, but there is no reason why it could not be built for a bandsaw.

Thanks for that one, Steve - I now see how to sort the current home made fence on my Startrite .

 

[Rod in Sarnia]

You will have to join the site to ask a question...


http://www.owwm.com/


Rod

 

[liam8223]

Quick one for anyone who knows!

I have just ordered from the states a pair of urethane bandsaw tyres, that were advertised for my bandsaw, they are 14" dia and 1-1/4" wide.

Should they be glued or are they a good friction fit?

Would anyone recommend the kreg precision bandsaw fence?

cheers, Liam.

 

[9fingers]

I think you will find them to be a dry fit onto the bandwheels.

Kreg fences have a good reputation generally. A bandsaw fence needs to be adjustable as each blade tends to cut at a different angle so a precsion fence will only be as precise as you set it up by trial and error on each blade.

Bob

 

[liam8223]

advice really appreciated, thanks.

 

[Mike.C]

Hi Liam,

What a load of bleeding rubbish. These guys are talking out of their backsides. Basically you have a pile of scrap and you will be wasting your money trying to put it right. Get rid of it and buy new. You lot should be ashamed of yourselves for the information you are giving him [-X [-X















Is there any chance that I could come down and take it off your hands [-o<

Only joking :roll:

As they have already said keep it and put it right because you will not buy anything as well made today. Let us know how you get on.

Cheers

Mike

 

[liam8223]

Thanks mike, will let you know when i'm fed up with it! :^o

Should i be crowning the new tyres?

And, while i'm here, whats the best tpi for resawing hard woods?

Liam

 

[9fingers]

I expect they will have some degree of crowning from new.

If the blades climb onto the wheels Ok then leave well alone.

My resawing blades are 3 or 4 TPI. The pitch needs to allow about 3 teeth to be in contact with the work at all time. So below 1" thick, use a finer blade.

Blades for resawing thick timber need nice deep gullets to carry away the sawdust.
I'm experimenting with a new blade at the moment with alternate different depth teeth. One for cutting and the next one is smaller to clear the cut.
So far they seem to cut very well. The vendor hopes to have them on the market in a month or so.
Watch this space.

Bob

 

[liam8223]

Thanks Bob, I will be interested in a couple if they work well.

I am looking at leaving either a 3/4" or 1" blade in permanently, as i dont do any curved work at present.

So if I was to get a 4 tpi blade, resawing anything over an inch deep will be fine?

And if i do make myself a circle cutting jig (a la Norm probably), should I be looking at a 1/4" blade?

Really weird, i feel like a complete novice asking these questions, but since having this machine, I tried it a couple of times but was not accurate enough, so its sat in the corner gathering dust!

I'm fairly confident that after the advice from you guys, this machine should perform nicely, as others have said it really is completely rigid, and blooming heavy too.

I shall clean the dust off and put some pics on, if only to try uploading some than anything else.

Thanks again, and happy new year all.


Liam ccasion5:

 

[9fingers]

Yup 4tpi would be a good general purpose blade down to an inch thickness.

It will still cut below the inch but maybe a bit rough and you will have to keep the feed rate down.

As for the circles, I have 1/4" blade but it tends to wander a bit on a circle cutting jig but to be fair it is a bit old and may have lost it edge.

On anything greater than 100mm radius, I'd use a 3/8 blade. Remember that once you have done radius cutting with a blade it will be more difficult to do straight cuts afterwards.

Keep an eye out for a new brand called "Tuff Saws" which should be launching in the near future. I have no commercial connection with the company -I've just been helping out with some product testing. I've been cutting 1mm thick veneers 100mm wide in iroko, oak, beech etc and they are looking good to me.

Bob

 

[Steve Maskery]

I use predominantly two blades - a 3TPI Skip for ripping and resawing, and 1/4" 6TPI regular tooth for thinner stuff, curves and anything requiring a finer finish.
The quality of the blade is by far the single most important part of the machine, and even an entry-level machine can be set to perform well with a good blade. A big beast like yours shold run very sweetly.

Cheers
Steve

 

[liam8223]

Some pics here hopefully!

I'm getting there slowly with the strip down, not had much time so far.

What you guys think?

Liam.