Newbie question about paraffin

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kboyd

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Hi all, I've just inherited by grandfather's old lathe and have been having a lot of fun with it- it's a great hobby which I'm hoping to get a lot better at!

I'm wanting to make some bits and bobs for in the house and some items will need to be food safe. I've read in a bunch of places (including a book I have) that paraffin is a good finish and is food safe. However, I know there is a terminology thing here because i'm guessing that what we in the UK call paraffin (kerosene etc.) is not food safe? I tried it on a wee test piece I was doing and it actually made a really nice finish... What is our equivalent of what the american's call paraffin?

I've spent a few hours on various websites trying to get get to the bottom of the whole 'finish for food safe' question. As a second question, for a newbie, where would be a good place to start with an easy to use finish for small projects like this. People seem to be suggesting NOT using vegetable oils, but going for raw linseed or mineral oil (I see you can buy butcher's block oil) or using wax or something. Anyway, any help appreciated!

Thanks, Ken
 
Pete, thanks - and I take it you can get this in liquid form which is what you're calling 'liquid paraffin'? This is where the confusion is coming in I think!
 
Walnut oil is good, you can get it in the supermarkets. Unlike many other veg oils it dries so won't go rancid
 
To be honest I've never seen liquid paraffin in my area so I can't say what its properties are. About the only thing that gets paraffin wax in my shop is the tables of my jointer (surfacer to you). :) Mineral oil for food surfaces like cutting boards etc., works well but needs renewing regularly. You should know that most hard finishes like lacquer are food safe after they have fully dried cured and have off gassed. A few months will usually do. To be on the safe side and to avoid using something that isn't safe look for one of the salad bowl finishes your vendors sell.

Pete
 
Hi kboyd and welcome to the forum. You're going to need to find your nearest "proper" wood turning supplies shop and pay them a visit to really open up the world of turning but also go online and you can order from Axminster power tools or any of the professional turners like turner's retreat or turner's workshop, some food safe finish. It's an oil which I cant remember what the blend is but its good for bowl interiors etc and not expensive.

A number of folks do use vegetable oils but there are many claims of them going rancid over longer periods of time. Food safe oil (it's actually called that and made by a finishing products company called Chestnut) is specifically formulated for what you need.
 
Personally I use ordinary vegetable oil such as rape etc. Walnut oil can be a problem as some people are allergic to it. I have found (after a number of years) that olive oil can go rancid but have never had a problem with ordinary culinary oils.

Pete
 
"Liquid Paraffin BP" is also known as Mineral Oil (in USA).

The Chestnut Finishes version is a light grade that is less viscous so penetrates a bit easier, various other places will sell it as a worktop/wooden utensil finish it has a medium viscosity, also available from your local Pharmacy (much thicker viscosity) and most veterinary practices and suppliers will have it in bulk for treatment and grooming of animals.
 
Woodmonkey":2fjczdkx said:
. Unlike many other veg oils it dries so won't go rancid
Be Careful, not all brands are the same, depends upon how it has been extracted and heat treated.

Don't always take comments from USA web links to products as applying to EU products, solvent extracted etc. with its high temperature treatments are different processes to cold pressed, all nut, seed and vegetable oils will rancidify given heat, light and oxygen exposure. Admittedly some may never reach the combination needed to trigger in domestic conditions.
 
I was was doing a little research on Danish/Finishing Oil and came across "Bestwood" Danish Oil which is, according to their blub 50% tung oil (no linseed), toy and food safe. It's a small family run firm I'd not heard of but I noticed a can at the club and looked into it (the details, not the can :) ). I didn't price small cans, but at £30 delivered for 5ltrs it's the cheapest I've found as well. I shall split one with a couple of others.
 
kboyd":1kwt19rc said:
I've read in a bunch of places (including a book I have) that paraffin is a good finish and is food safe. However, I know there is a terminology thing here because i'm guessing that what we in the UK call paraffin (kerosene etc.) is not food safe? I tried it on a wee test piece I was doing and it actually made a really nice finish... What is our equivalent of what the american's call paraffin?
Chas has the correct answer and also mineral oil, butchers block oil and baby oil (may have perfume added) are all the same.

Some other uses for baby oil if you have some left over http://www.instructables.com/id/11-Unusual-Uses-for-Baby-Oil/

Bill
 
I make a paste wax from beeswax and baby oil. Smells lovely.
I'm not sure I would use it on anything that's likely to pick up a taste from it though... :D
You can buy unscented baby oil from some pharmacy chains. Buying pure mineral oil from the same chains though is normally much cheaper.
Paraffin wax can be purchased from most hobby/craft outlets in pellet form.
 
Liquid paraffin can be bought very cheaply in agricultural suppliers and equestrian stores if there are any near you.

Please note it's not plain old paraffin/kerosene as you'd put in oil lamps.
Jon
 
Mineral Oil or Liquid Paraffin has been used for years as a laxative for cattle and infants. You can buy small bottles in a chemist for human use or if you have a farmers co-op nearby they would have it in five litre drums for about £15
 
keithkarl2007":38dnjg5v said:
Mineral Oil or Liquid Paraffin has been used for years as a laxative. You can buy it in five litre drums.
I'm trying not to picture the result of that.
Bill
[Sorry about the selective edit.]
 
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