workbench "holdfasts"

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blighty1969":3ll5n9kz said:
Peter Sefton":3ll5n9kz said:
4" is thick

Hmmm back to the drawing board then #-o When I designed/built this bench I wanted it to be hefty and pinched ideas from loads of designs on the web/YouTube. The other down side to a thick bench if I need to buy bigger clamps.
You can still have a 4 inch top. Just counter bore the under side to allow the hold fasts to grip. :)

This is the famous holdfast thread :)

holdfast-group-buy-may-have-found-a-uk-blacksmith-t42256.html
 
Blighty, I had a blacksmith lesson in Barnton, near Northwich. Google Barnton Forge. Very interesting it was too (although it convinced me to stick to wood).
 
James C":2902o9ve said:
Richard posted a video about helping holdfasts to grip in thicker benches.

http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/?p=1329

I assume that's what Peter meant when he spoke about Barbing. I think it is probably easier than counter boring all of the dog holes that you want to put a holdfast in.

Thats the idea, I am sure there will be several ways of getting over the issue. I was trying to raise the problem for those making benches.
Cheers Peter
 
If you choose to counterbore the back, it's not difficult as long as you know it is neccessary during the build of the bench, and not after.

I bought what looked like half a Sjoberg clamp - it was "missing" the top arm. I later realised that it is a holdfast - the bar goes through a rectangular slot in the bench top. This has given me an idea for my next one - get a couple of pairs of F cramps from Aldi, drill the rivets and rout some slots in the top to drop the bars through. Hold downs as long as you require them. You could still use the cramps - just put a nut and bolt where the rivet was. :lol:
 
If it helps - I've got a 4 inch thick bench completed last year - actually it is 96mm - and Richard's holdfasts work beautifully - but I just took a file to roughen up the 'back face' of the holdfast. I have used one to hold down a 4 inch belt sander on the bench top - i.e. only 4 or 5 inches of the holdfast was through the bench and it was absolutely fine
Cheers
Mark
 
Benches differ greatly in the way that holdfasts work in them. Thicker and thinner, what species of wood used, how cleanly bored the hole was .... whatever the conditions and whether the shaft of the holdfast is roughed up or not, the pre - clout angle is critical.

This, for instance, is too much gap.



It will hold at this but the toe will dig in and there will not be so much grip in the hole.
What to aim for is this:



The toe is clear and it will sit down flat with a single hard clout.



Also it will not work well if the visible gap is too narrow. It will sit down flat before much gripping force has been attained at top and bottom of the hole.

By the way this holdfast pictured is in 4" of Pine.

You don't need to be a blacksmith to do this adjustment, all you need is a 2lb hammer and something to act as an anvil. Simply, to increase the bite, give one sharp blow in this position:



and to decrease the bite one sharp blow in this position:



I tune every holdfast this way as it is such a precise angle, it can really only be judged in situe' when cold.
 
Very grateful to all for advice and assistance.

Decided to take the plunge and Richard will soon be making me a pair of Holdfasts for my new bench. :D
 
Thanks to RichardT I have a set of holdfasts.

Next job is to make my new bench look like Swiss cheese!

Now for the next question for those who have used them.

Where have you drilled your holes?

I am thinking of drilling a line along the front of my bench about 6" in from the front at 9" centers. My thinking behind this is that the bench will be mainly worked off the front edge; and 6" back 9" centers will mean I can clamp anything on the first foot.
 
I've taken a simpler approach and just drilled holes as I need them, where they are actually needed. It only takes a minute or two with a brace and bit.

I'd also highly recommend this video by Richard Maguire - who sells Richard T's holdfasts - on how to use a holdfast with a notched batten as a quick and easy alternative to a tail vice: http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/?p=1434
 
Andy, thanks for the link..I'll be making one those on my next day off.
 
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