Bought a Sliding Compound Mitre Saw

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wwade

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I have been getting in to woodwork over the last year and recently built a wooden box for the kitchen to sling all the shoes and bags in, since I live in a new build and storage space is at a minimum.

I'm in the process of now building a bookcase and a bench seat with storage underneath for the kitchen now. I have been using a mitre block for all of my projects, not the best, time consuming but yesterday for some reason any wood I cut yesterday wasn't coming out square. I don't know whether it was the actual mitre block or saw that was causing it as I tried three or four different off cuts with the same result, it was getting really frustrating in the end.

In the end I took plunge and purchased one of these mitre saws from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pingtek-Redlin ... EMTC8X19E5

Only a few reviews, but hopefully my jobs will become easier now. Feel like I have cheated myself a little bit by buying one, but I suppose this is the natural progression of wood working. Wish I could have spent about £300 on one, but I'm also on a budget. Hopefully I have made the right choice and won't look back.

Wish I had the money for a table saw, router, drilling machine, planer, proper bench the list goes on and on.
 
This type of machine usually needs very careful setting up to get true 90 degree cuts first and then calibrating the angle cuts to get a feel for the accuracy that the machine is capable of.
 
Myfordman":1duil5ad said:
This type of machine usually needs very careful setting up to get true 90 degree cuts first and then calibrating the angle cuts to get a feel for the accuracy that the machine is capable of.

Thanks for the tip here, I will look out for this when setting up. It is a step up for me from using the plastic mitre blocks.
 
get yourself a good protractor (or if you've got one use a compound square with a protractor on it), mark the angle on a block of wood and cut it, stick it on the shelve. do this for all the angles you typically cut. now you've got a set of gauge blocks for setting up quickly. :) ignore the marks on the saw, they are a guide at best. you can do the same for the compound angle if you feel the need.
 
novocaine":1d7t4sif said:
get yourself a good protractor (or if you've got one use a compound square with a protractor on it), mark the angle on a block of wood and cut it, stick it on the shelve. do this for all the angles you typically cut. now you've got a set of gauge blocks for setting up quickly. :) ignore the marks on the saw, they are a guide at best. you can do the same for the compound angle if you feel the need.

Thanks for this tip here, didn't even think about this one. Found a use for my off cuts now.
 
Thanks all for the tips, just got my first sliding mitre yesterday too! Total lack of instructions; I couldn't even work out why "this model" didn't go up and down until I finally figured the "transport mode" lock/button. What a plonker.
 
I don't mean to threadjack, as I'm sure this will be useful to wwade too, but does anyone have any blade recommendations or know of a guide that says 'use this blade for that' etc.

I've not used mine yet (Metabo KGS216M) but I'm presuming the supplied blade is adequate rather than great?
 
Agrajag
I have owned the same Metabo as you for about 2 years
General occasional DIY stuff; Excellent saw btw

Decided to buy a Freud 64 tooth crosscut blade which arrived this week

Here

Tested against the original and I cannot see any difference in quality of cut whatsoever :oops:
So I have a spare blade :) The Metabo blade tightens anti clockwise btw

This angle finder is excellent for checking square and a lot more; you can check wood angles too, it doesn't have to be metal
Cheers
 
Cordy":1m7qzhg2 said:
Agrajag
I have owned the same Metabo as you for about 2 years
General occasional DIY stuff; Excellent saw btw

Decided to buy a Freud 64 tooth crosscut blade which arrived this week

Here

Tested against the original and I cannot see any difference in quality of cut whatsoever :oops:
So I have a spare blade :) The Metabo blade tightens anti clockwise btw

This angle finder is excellent for checking square and a lot more; you can check wood angles too, it doesn't have to be metal
Cheers
You'd notice the difference after a week or two using the standard blade. The Freud will stay shaper and cleaner for a lot longer. You'll also notice it when cutting soft fibrous wood
 
wwade, thats very similar to the Evolution saws.

One thing to check out of the box is that when you tighten the moveable fence section down, that it doesn't protrude. The fence needs to be flat all the way across both sides of the face from top to bottom.

I went through three similar saws due to that issue.
 
MattRoberts":pcd8667j said:
Cordy":pcd8667j said:
Agrajag
I have owned the same Metabo as you for about 2 years
General occasional DIY stuff; Excellent saw btw

Decided to buy a Freud 64 tooth crosscut blade which arrived this week

Here

Tested against the original and I cannot see any difference in quality of cut whatsoever :oops:
So I have a spare blade :) The Metabo blade tightens anti clockwise btw

This angle finder is excellent for checking square and a lot more; you can check wood angles too, it doesn't have to be metal
Cheers
You'd notice the difference after a week or two using the standard blade. The Freud will stay shaper and cleaner for a lot longer. You'll also notice it when cutting soft fibrous wood
He said he'd been using it for a couple of years?

Metabo isn't a cheapo brand, I'd expect a decent blade from them.
 
Wuffles":32qgcxti said:
He said he'd been using it for a couple of years?

Metabo isn't a cheapo brand, I'd expect a decent blade from them.

I misread that then. I blame it on the sleepless nights!
 
Nowt wrong with that saw at all. As all the comments regarding set-up mentions, spend a little time on getting the cut square both ways. You might find that your quick-set angle settings may be a little off as they can be in cheaper models, but don't worry, just mark it with a sharpie or something to let you know the square point - as I did on one of my chop saws.

Jonny
 
I've looked at that saw before. I'd appreciate it if you could let us know how you get on with it please.
 
Hi Monkey Mark, sorry for the delay, I've been on holiday :D

I'm not sure if you're on about my saw or the OP so I'm going to start a new thread as I have a question to ask anyway.
 
wwade":7m3396ry said:
Only a few reviews, but hopefully my jobs will become easier now. Feel like I have cheated myself a little bit by buying one, but I suppose this is the natural progression of wood working. Wish I could have spent about £300 on one, but I'm also on a budget. Hopefully I have made the right choice and won't look back.

Wish I had the money for a table saw, router, drilling machine, planer, proper bench the list goes on and on.

Don't feel like you have cheated yourself.

Unless you buy something like the Festool Kapex, no matter how much money you drop on one, most of these machines have the same kinds of draw backs, primarily slop in the slide action which means you can never be 100% happy with them for total accuracy.

I have the Dewalt DW774, and I find it more of convenience thing: Being able to quickly chop through stuff roughly to size and then finish of with a small, accurate, cross cut sled on the table saw (+ hand planing) to final dimension.

I was in a similar position a couple of years ago; convinced I needed a mitre saw. Went for a tablesaw in the end, and I am glad I did - they are a lot more versatile, so definitely think about that if you are going down the power tool route.
 
If you are going to do bevel cuts, it is essential that the saw is securely bolted down.
With 90 deg or mitre cuts you are only pushing down.
With bevel cuts you are pushing on a diagonal.
It takes practice when making 45 bevels for MDF boxes to move and slide without pushing down and burning the work with the side of the blade.

I have the evolution 255mm saw. It's amazing how the motor housing interferes with clamping. Always practice the cut first with the saw unplugged to make sure you are able to go all the way through without hitting a clamp. I always use clamps with two hands behind the saw handle.
 
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