Anyone have an idea how to wire this old lathe motor

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Tvp30

Member
Joined
1 Oct 2012
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Location
Didcot
Please see attached pics, I'm trying to use this old lathe motor for a drum sander I've built, but not sure how to power the motor...
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    138.9 KB · Views: 3,870
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    116.4 KB · Views: 3,873
Interesting. Motors that I've seen with with those kind of jumpers on the connections were dual voltage 120/240. IIRC, you'd put the two brass bars over the two central terminals and hook up the wires to the two outside terminals for 120V, while for 240 you'd just hook the wires to the two outside terminals for 240V. I'd do the latter, with a switch in between to allow you to bump start it to make sure there aren't any shorts. If it starts without any sparks, let it run for few seconds. If that works fine, give it a minute or so running and see if it starts getting hot.

Kirk
 
A1 - A2 are the main windings.
Z1 - Z2 are the start winding and reversing these will reverse the motor.
With single phase motors there are variations on whether they need a start capacitor, either left permanently connected or with some form of start switch on the motor or externally.
If my memory serves me correctly Brook Crompton needing a start switch or button normally have EDA or TDA in the type number, those that don't require a switch have PDA in the type number.

The one on my metal turning lathe has a drum switch to change over the Z1-Z2 connections to reverse and has a capacitor in the feed to the start winding and has a integral centrifugal start switch.

There is wiring information here, see Page 4. and much more info. on the Brook Crompton site that should enable you to sort out your motor type.
http://www.brookcrompton.com/pdf-files/ ... _v1.1e.pdf
 
Thanks CHJ,

I can only see two points of contact, I'll wack some power through it tomorrow see what happens.
 
Tvp30":335nw1x8 said:
Thanks CHJ,

I can only see two points of contact, I'll wack some power through it tomorrow see what happens.

There are only two points of contact ! The joining points of A1 to Z1 and A2 to Z2 by the brass plates linking those leads; A1 and A2 are the run winding, and Z1 and Z2 to start winding. On the BrookCompton site the run winding is U1 and U2, the modern designation.

From the fact the leads are all joined in the manner shown, there should be a start capacitor and quite possible a centrifugal switch somewhere in/on the motor frame. The purpose of the start winding and it's capacitor is to create a pseudo second phase to create the start-up rotating field for the machine - once running that normally gets switched out of circuit.

Connect the line to A1/Z1 and neutral to A2/Z2 and be prepared to switch off quickly if it doesn't come immediately to life. If all is OK and you want the motor to run in the opposite direction, you'll need to swap over the wires going to Z1 and Z2 - ie reverse the start winding.

Rob
 
Tvp30":2ase6zem said:
Thanks CHJ,

I can only see two points of contact, I'll wack some power through it tomorrow see what happens.

Whatever you do remember the most important wire is the Earth connection do not attempt to handle the motor without an earth connected, even if there is no severe fault there could be enough leakage via damp/dust or capacitor casings to be a hazard.
 
CHJ":3oszprow said:
Tvp30":3oszprow said:
Thanks CHJ,

I can only see two points of contact, I'll wack some power through it tomorrow see what happens.

Whatever you do remember the most important wire is the Earth connection do not attempt to handle the motor without an earth connected, even if there is no severe fault there could be enough leakage via damp/dust or capacitor casings to be a hazard.

Chas' advice is the bit I forgot - but if you are anything like me you will find a long length of wire, a non flammable floor and a socket switch you know will operate quickly. I've got an temperature adjustable hot air gun that had to have its electronics rebuilt and I found I hadn't taken full note of the wiring on dismantlement so there was that bit of a lack of confidence that I had it right, so I was at one of the hall, it was at the other ---, etc. Fortunately I did have it right :D

Rob
 

Latest posts

Back
Top