Yum Yum!!

[woody67]

Thought I'd like to gloat about my new freebie courtesy of my bro-in-law!
It's elder and very well seasoned. Trouble is - what would you do with it? Obviously not thick enough for bowls, but it's a real beaut.
What would ''you normally pay for such a piece?? I knew by seeing some for sale and having just returned from a timber supplier, that they're not cheap - well into double figures. When I told my bro-in-law the possible cost, his words were "HOW MUCH?". Luckily he's in the timber business so I think he's going burr hunting the morrow!!

Thanks

Mark

 

[CHJ]

Mark, I would try for something along these- lines, keeping as much of the natural edge as possible.

Lovely piece of timber.

 

[Bodrighy]

Must be one of those weeks. Just been given this


also by my brother-in-law. I have two questions
1 What is the best way to mount it if I want to keep most of the outside skin?
2 Anyone know what wood it is, he was told it was Australian but that was all he knew.

It's 12" long, 12" at widest and about 2" thick.

Pete

 

[woody67]

Thanks Chas - now one of those I might manage! Is that one of yours? It looks like your usual high standards

Mark

 

[CHJ]

.......
1 What is the best way to mount it if I want to keep most of the outside skin?
.....

Pete, I have never tackled a shallow burr like that but my shot at it assuming you intend to hollow the face for one or more bowl depressions would be:

1. Mount the flat face on the chuck with screw chuck or faceplate ,using a hot glued scrap piece if necessary.

2. clean up the flat face edge as far in as possible on the chuck side and finish, sanding and oil, wax whatever.

3. Mount a large diameter piece of thick MDF or chipboard to faceplate and clamp the burr to it around the edges with short bolts, lengths of threaded rod etc. and wood toggles or doughnut type ring, protecting the finished rim with thick tape or the like.
Any packing pieces of wood needed to hold the burr flat face true should be be hot glued to the backing piece when in situ to stop them moving.

4. Proceed to hollow out with care and utmost respect for knuckles and fantom images of spinning wood.

PS: think you may have to call on a friend for an extra pair of hands at some point.

 

[CHJ]

Thanks Chas .... Is that one of yours?...

Yes, a piece of Ash board that looked to good to waste by turning it round.

Done with hot glue blocks both sides to hold, turned back first, finished as far as sanding sealer, fixed hot glue block on and drilled screw chuck hole whilst still mounted on chuck.

Finished off front edges and back as close to glue block as possible the removed block by splitting along grain with chisel (supported on edge of bench) and hand finished centre base area before drilling shallow holes and fitting feet.

 

[NickWelford]

How about using some other method of hollowing rather than the lathe

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/181/4200 ... b35f_o.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/156/4200 ... 020f_o.jpg

I make these from time to time, and it's a shame to lose the rough side. I have one on the lathe at present which had a small flat on the underneath, so I hot glued it to a faceplate - having warmed the faceplate first with a blowlamp. Very unbalanced, but not impossible.

Re: cost - I normally pay between 10 and 20 notes for elm or oak burr, up to 15 inches across and maybe 6 deep

 

[jpt]

HI Pete

Hard to tell from the picture and untill the face is cleaned
up but it looks like Red Malle Burr.




john

 

[Bodrighy]

Looking up different burrs on the net the rough side looks like some kind of Malle. All spiky. As said it'll probably be more obvious once I've cut it....when I get up the nerve.

Pete