You can’t use a Japanese saw on hardwoods

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David Barron doesn't seem to have a problem either: -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0sI3VUeNyk

Not in his league but I used a Gyokucho 372 to cut these dovetails: -
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Jimi43 isn't active round here these days, but I think this post proves the point that you can use a japanese style saw on hardwoods - here he is, cutting up a lignum vitae bowling ball:

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Glynne":148pxke3 said:
Not in his league but I used a Gyokucho 372 to cut these dovetails: -

If you're not in his league then you're pretty damn close! Maybe the half pins could be a shade thicker but that looks to be a very tidy job!

=D>

And yes, some Japanese saws are only designed for softwoods and softer hardwoods, but there are plenty available these days that can take the hardest of hard woods in their stride. Dichter Tools stocks some of the best,

http://www.fine-tools.com/hardwoodsaw.html
 
I have never had explained where this belief that the Japanese only ever used softwood came from, but then I'm no expert on the subject. Certainly their temple buildings, houses and the like seem to be largely built from softwood, but the classic Japanese furniture that I have seen or seen described, always is made from hardwood.
I have bought a number of Japanese saws, and generally they have performed well, but have been fragile. One, a Bridge City Ryobi, with a very fine blade and tpi, broke teeth for fun, whereas a second hand but larger Ryobi, with a lower tpi, works just fine, and I have sharpened it. The main difference is that most of the Japanese saws currently offered for sale are induction hardened, whereas my second hand Ryobi is not.
Is this the source of the problem?
I have largely reverted to Western saws, because I simply don't find the pole handle comfortable. My only exception is an Irwin pistol grip which again was second hand, with induction hardened teeth, and I use for all sorts of rough sawing, including firewood.
 
Hi Mr P

I think it's just a joke. Wilbur has taken issue with the concept that Japanese saws can't be used on hardwood. And so, ironically posts that you can't.

As custard alluded to above and as we all know some can't be used but many can. It might have stemmed from this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tq8IF5A7ruc that lacked a little bit of balance to help people make a truly informed choice. I think Kevin is right if you used a Japanese saw tuned for easy cutting softwood on hardwood you could loose teeth. But that's would not be the saws fault.

I don't "Know" Wilbur apart from interaction on-line but that interaction has always be very good.

I just wanted to draw attention to something that I had used and had great results with. Well worth a look considering how long the teeth last. And if Mr Barron likes them they can't be all bad.
 
G S Haydon":2s6dd3j7 said:
Hi Mr P

I think it's just a joke. Wilbur has taken issue with the concept that Japanese saws can't be used on hardwood. And so, ironically posts that you can't.

... snip ...

I don't "Know" Wilbur apart from interaction on-line but that interaction has always be very good.

Yes. This is Wilber's sense of humor.

To further fan the flames, here's an old post he made about the cost of new premium manufacture hand tools. http://giantcypress.net/post/1487152382 ... -hand-tool

Vimeo direct link https://vimeo.com/35420975

However something seems to be funny at Vimeo today as the link is just stalling out.
 
Think it's my turn to say

Heavens I'm thick! Carry on.....

On the bright side we did get to see Glynne's excellent dovetails/box =D> =D> =D>
 
Excellent video I clicked on the vimeo link (works fine for me) without reading the warning on the blog page first so it took me massivelly by suprise when the languange turns very blue towards the end.

Warning: rated R for language, and ****. Luckily, it’s Friday. Have a great weekend.

I know a guy on a forum who bought a second hand stanley for five bucks. Hilarious.
 
There are high dollar japanese saws that are hardened over the entire plate and not with impulse hardened teeth. Those saws can lose teeth in certain woods, especially as you get faster with them and ask a little more of them for speed.

Most of the impulse hardened tooth saws with soft plates probably cut hardwoods fine, but I have pinged teeth off of dozukis in the past (Z brand).

I have also broken teeth off of the lee valley rip dozuki.

Use them for a while and sooner or later it will happen, but on the low end saws, it shouldn't happen too much if you're not pushing the saws.
 
Gyocucho have saws suitable for hardwoods, which I have used for many years.

Softwood crosscut blades have needle like teeth which are fragile.

On Hardwood blades the teeth are stouter.

The main problem is that many UK outlets do not describe their saws accurately, if at all! I think Dictum do.

David Charlesworth
 
Stanley Covington on another forum had a very expensive hand-made saw made for himself years ago and had it sent to me to try (a japanese saw). It was close to four figures, but made entirely by hand like a saw would've been made 100 years ago. It was a stout saw with a two handed grip 45 degrees to the tooth line, not a lightweight joinery saw.

I suggested that ripping hardwoods puts people using japanese saws at a disadvantage to western saws (that's neither here nor there in all of this), and he requested that the sawmaker make a saw that would be good for hardwoods.

Not surprisingly, it came out thicker and heavier than a softwood saw with teeth that were closer to western teeth than many of the very high hook maebiki teeth, etc. It was tempered dark brown, and probably made of something similar to W1 steel, so it was not as hard as many of the saws we're used to seeing come out of japan. There is no way I could have damaged it in use no matter what I cut with it and how hard I would've bore down on it - I gave it a go on a few pieces of stock and it wore me out without having to be tentative.

Long story short, some of the saws made in japan won't handle hardwoods, some will. Some of the ones that will still require a user to have patience and not bear down on them as you can do with a western saw when you get into a good work flow.

There is another side to this, and it's much like the planes. If you intend to use saws for joinery only, and perhaps the rare precise awkward cut or small crosscut, then it's not a problem to be patient with a saw. If you're going to try to use saws to do heavier work, inevitably, you won't want to finesse cuts forever, and that's where I got in trouble with my saws - using them to size stock and pushing them past their limits.

I'd be curious to find out if any other people have had the same experience. Usually, this topic comes up and someone points to one of Wilbur's quotes or something else similar, and it's deemed settled. But my saws still have broken teeth, and they were never kinked or stopped in a cut - they just broke off in various manners (some a tiny bit of the tooth broke off, and others, it broke close to the saw plate) and I didn't notice it until the feel of the cut got worse.
 
While my preference is for a Western saw, I have used Japanese saws for decades. These have almost all been Z-saws, partly as they are easily sourced.

What I particularly like about these saws is the easy starting and fine, smooth cut. By contrast, the LV rip saw (for dovetails) starts quite hard. The Z-saw dovetail saw is my favourite, although I do break teeth occasionally (I almost exclusively use hardwoods). This does not seem to affect the cut, and the saws soldier on. They are my go-to saws for very delicate rips or crosscuts.

The Z-saws that have caused my problems are the larger, unbacked versions. The blades are very thin and quite delicate. A moment of over-exuberance will lead to the plate kinking.

Regards from London

Derek
 
those large z saws in rip format are quite hard on the hands in a hardwood, too.

On the dozukis where I have broken teeth, I also use them until it becomes a cascading thing, but over the last two years, I've gradually given away most of my japanese saws to a power tool using friend who finds appeal in their ease of starting.
 
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