Yet another Router Table

[Tom K]

:roll: The mission I have chosen to accept is to build a superb router table/station that the"Bearded One" would be proud of :shock:. As with most of my projects this involves spending large amounts of money on kit and taking forever to getting around to finishing the job. So far I have a huge Porter Cable mounted in a Woodpecker Unilift that I bought direct from the USA (the shipping doubled the price and then I got stuffed for £45.00 Vat) and I have laminated two pieces of 18mm MDF for a top. Using my trusty Bosch POF500 an opening was routed for the Unilift however getting the assembled router and plate through the opening proved impossible so I had to remove one of the handles from the Porter Cable to get it through found the 18" spring! maybe I assembled it wrong but I don't see how!
Heres a link to some photos
http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/7065207
I am looking for some opinions as to what works best ie what is the value of adding a mitre slot what is the most useful width etc obviously I realise string comes in different lengths but there have been quite a few built so hindsight anyone?

 

[BradNaylor]

what is the value of adding a mitre slot what is the most useful width etc

I would definitely add a mitre slot - as to the width; you have a nice mitre gauge on that big lump of a table saw. Cut the slot on your router table to suit that and make it interchangable.

The only question is how to cut the slot...

... this is the old 'I need a router table in order to make a router table' conundrum! :lol:

PS Are you just leaving the surface bare MDF? You will get a lot less friction and the table will be harder wearing if you add a layer of malamine laminate (Formica or similar) to it. Trouble is, you've already routed for the Woodpecker.

pipper!

 

[Tom K]

Thanks for the reply I am intending to cover with formica I thought I would be able to plunge through the opening with a trim cutter :? . I was thinking more of the table width i.e its quite a lump

does the left side of the table serve much useful purpose except as an outfeed? :roll:

Regards Tom

 

[Tom K]

however getting the assembled router and plate through the opening proved impossible so I had to remove one of the handles from the Porter Cable to get it through found the 18" spring! maybe I assembled it wrong but I don't see how!

Obviously my cantankerous streak had kicked in and my certainty that I had tried it every which way was wrong I'm much happier with the handle reattached!
At least now I will be able to pop it out of the table to use on the little CDJ300

Tom

 

[Waka]

You do realise that you sould have got both the router and unilift in the UK?

By the way what is the size of the router table? Looks awfully big to me.

 

[Tom K]

Hi Waka, I actually bought the router on E Bay it was a bargain New in the box for about £100 I couldn't see how they were so cheap until I realised that the flex support where the cable enters the housing was split making it defective :roll: It was the Unilift that cost all that VAT which is charged on the item the shipping charge and any thing else they can think of When I started putting this kit together probably getting on for 2 years ago it wasn't exactly widely available as I remember I think
I found a link to a site that said all goods available phone for a price not my style of shopping!
The top measures 600 x 1220 at the moment I'm debating on lopping about 300-400mm off of the left hand side.

Regards Tom

 

[Waka]

Tom

If you have the space available then I'd leave the table to the existing dimensions, its always good to have plenty of worktop space, you can use it for other things when not in router mode.

 

[Gary]

Is it just me or should he have applied the laminated top before fitting the Unilift?

 

[Tom K]

Hi Gary, yeah its just you mate :twisted: the Uni is sitting about an 1/8th or so proud of the MDF I figured this would allow me plenty of room to add the laminate and readjust the depth. :wink:
Edit
On re-reading this it sounds a little harsh, just that I dont see why you would apply laminate first when this means any mistake is in the final finish. If I route for and mess up the mitre slot for instance the bare MDF is repairable ie I can let a piece in and it won't show once laminated.
Not that I have ever misscut a piece of MDF of course.

Regards Tom

 

[Tom K]

Hi Guys, sorted out a T Track from Rutlands 42" which I see is now on sale a fiver cheaper :roll: So the table will be that wide. Also accidently purchase a big Triton so now I have a choice :lol: They both fit the Uni so
I'll try them both!

My router collection seems a little unbalanced the POV 500A does all the work.

I have mounted the Triton in the Uni (happened to have those 1/4" UNC screws knocking about) and I suspect thats where it will stay for a few reasons.

• Triton collet comes above table for bit change.
  Triton isn't open to falling debris when table mounted.
  Triton doesn't feel at all comfortable in hand held mode.

On the other hand the Porter-Cable 7539 monster although the 44 Magnum of the router world has massive grips and superb uncomplicated controls that feel spot on! Just need a decent guide rail for it.