Worktop jig repair?

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George_N

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I have managed to ding my worktop jig...working outside, light going, tired, in a rush to finish...you know the story. The jig is a solid laminate one, bought off Ebay. As such it wasn't expensive at about £40 but I grudge buying another for cutting one more joint. I was wondering about repairing the ding with quick-setting Araldite epoxy. Anyone tried this? I know it will be more expensive in the long run if I get a bad joint and end up having to buy another couple of lengths of worktop...maybe I've just answered my own question but any opinions or ideas would be welcome.
 
What have you got to loose by attempting the repair?
 
Gary, nothing to lose by doing the repair. I just don't want to do it and then stuff up £100 length of worktop if the advice is that it's not worth the risk, as in, the Araldite might come unstuck at the vital moment in the cut, or something like that.
 
Drill a couple of small holes into the damaged area then apply some epoxy filler (wood or car body) once hard file/sand to the level of the jig, the holes will give it a key and stop the filler falling out. Araldite is a bit too rubbery to sand smooth.

Jason
 
Just a thought, George. Might it be possible to cut out a piece of laminate from somewhere on the jig where it won't matter and using this to glue in as a patch where you've damaged it? Would take some accurate cutting but might work.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
George,

Go out and treat yourself to a decent Trend kitchen jig they start at about £80 and they don't come with the rubbish pegs like all the cheap jigs come with they have proper metal lugs with o-rings on so they will never go loose or wobbly.

don't try a repair its not worth it like you say you could stuff up a worktop.
 
chipp71970":1gm4yc7h said:
George,

Go out and treat yourself to a decent Trend kitchen jig they start at about £80 and they don't come with the rubbish pegs like all the cheap jigs come with they have proper metal lugs with o-rings on so they will never go loose or wobbly.

don't try a repair its not worth it like you say you could stuff up a worktop.

There speaks a true Festool Man
 
jasonB":m94mm30y said:
Drill a couple of small holes into the damaged area then apply some epoxy filler (wood or car body) once hard file/sand to the level of the jig, the holes will give it a key and stop the filler falling out. Araldite is a bit too rubbery to sand smooth.

Jason

This is what I did with my one when my router slipped and I had no problems with any of the tops I did after :)
 
Shame it's not a Trend Jig, as we do offer a repair service.

Or even a jig with a replaceable centre (developed for the hire industry).

Regards,

andy@trend
 
Gary":1wk62q0y said:
chipp71970":1wk62q0y said:
George,

quote]

There speaks a true Festool Man

Why waste time repairing something that only cost £40 and you will never be sure it will last it may last forever but it might not and if it failed on a job you then have to go out and get a new one anyway.

Oh and yes I do have Festool gear but I don't have their kitchen jig.
 
Hmmmm let's think,

Nope sorry,

I would of course rather he bought a Trend Jig ;-)

andy@trend
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I think I will have a go at repairing the jig with some car body filler. If I had lots of joints to cut I would certainly go for something like the Trend jig but it's for my kitchen at home and I only have one more right hand corner joint to do. I must remember in future..."wait 'til the router stops".
 
I understand,

It is a common misconception that our products are expensive though,

Worktop jigs range from £50.00 - £249.00 through Trend dealers and come with the quality, backup and service that you would expect from a large British family firm,

Good luck with the repair,

andy@trend
 
My 2p

Repair the jig with filler or Araldite (if your Araldite is rubbery, you are either using the 5 min rubbish or not mixing it properly).
Once you have it as smooth and true as possible, cut a brand new jig in some suitable material with a copy bearing bit in the router. In fact why not cut several and flog them on Ebay?

Keep the master safe and sound for future reference use.

Bob
 
9fingers":2xt9nw8d said:
Once you have it as smooth and true as possible, cut a brand new jig in some suitable material with a copy bearing bit in the router. In fact why not cut several and flog them on Ebay?

Keep the master safe and sound for future reference use.

Bob

Well a few reasons 'why not' really,

The main one's being patent's, copyright's, design rights, Prison ?

;-)

andy@trend
 
A fair point Andy!

With the number of jigs around now I can't imagine any patent rights still existing but I could be wrong. I think they last for 25 years. Certainly one I hold (held) in completely different field has expired after this time.

Are there useful differences between jigs apart from the quality of materials used and details of pins etc?

Bob
 
Of course I can only speak for our Jigs when it comes to features,

Take our COMBI 1002 for example,

Made from 16mm thick phenolic,
Alloy bushes with 'o' rings,
Not only produces Male and Female part of the joint,
Breakfast bar, peninsula curves,
35mm apertures for Blum style hinges,
3 apertures for cable tidy inserts,

More than any other jig on the market offers,

On the other hand the COMBI 600,
entry level jig,
still has alloy bushes,
produces male & female joints,


HTH

andy@ trend
 

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