Workshop flooring...

[cusimar9]

What low cost workshop flooring options have people tried?

My workshop floor was previously painted so I tried applying a fresh coat of concrete paint, but 6 months in it's already come up in places and needs painting again.

I've just had a toilet removed that the previous owner put in (?) so I'm happy to repaint it but I don't want to do this job ever year!

I don't fancy some of the cheap interlocking rubber tile options I've seen. Some of the hard plastic tiles look great but I can't afford £500+ for a workshop floor!

So unless anyone has a better suggestion I think my options are:

1. Paint again and hope for the best
2. Carpet / Vinyl
3. Chipboard + Paint

All suggestions appreciated.

 

[Glynne]

I used interlocking loft boards which you can get from most DIY warehouses or Wickes.

 

[the_g_ster]

I used loft flooring, been ok so far.

I did see something on tv the other day that used simple chipboard in a kitchen/extension and was painted in two pack garage floor paint.

So could use a two pack epoxy paint, maybe more durable.

Or, simple cheap laminate. As long as dry, won't be an issue, and easy to sweep, dust, hoover etc too.

 

[cusimar9]

I used loft flooring, been ok so far.

I did see something on tv the other day that used simple chipboard in a kitchen/extension and was painted in two pack garage floor paint.

So could use a two pack epoxy paint, maybe more durable.

Or, simple cheap laminate. As long as dry, won't be an issue, and easy to sweep, dust, hoover etc too.

Yeah I watched the same thing! I just boarded out our loft with the interlocking chipboard panels but never considered it for a garage floor.

Would painted chipboard prove more durable than painted concrete?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

In NZ a huge number of household floors are chipboard varnished with water based varnish, which works perfectly well. You'd have more scratching if you dragged stuff around, but as long as you kept it clear of any grit or dirt chipboard should be OK. It's probably cheaper to use full sheets, though. They wouldn't join so neatly but does it matter?

 

[carlb40]

Tbh if the paint is lifting in parts, the rest will follow. So no point repainting IMO.
A few options are vapour barrier and then fix ply/ chipboard direct to the existing floor.
As above but if space allows. Batten /insulate the floor then overboard it as above.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Of course, a quick fix is painting it with pva - it doesn't last indefinitely, but it's cheap enough.

 

[cusimar9]

This is what I used last time and it started chipping within months, so I'm a bit hesitant to just paint over it again unless it's with a different kind of paint which will definitely bond better to the floor

http://www.homebase.co.uk/en/homebaseuk ... 25l-713393

 

[Zeddedhed]

Check out Watco for ultra hardcore floor coatings:

www.watco.co.uk

Pete

 

[Phil Pascoe]

This is what I used last time and it started chipping within months, so I'm a bit hesitant to just paint over it again unless it's with a different kind of paint which will definitely bond better to the floor

http://www.homebase.co.uk/en/homebaseuk ... 25l-713393

Your problem there is probably not the paint, so much as the substrate. I would guess you've a concrete floor like my last workshop, and it's not the paint wearing through so much as all the little lumps and bumps breaking off. I came to the conclusion with mine that I either had to live with it or cover it.

 

[AndyT]

My workshop has an old (Victorian) solid floor in wavy, bumpy, patched but dry concrete.
When I moved in over 20 years ago I laid some sheets of ordinary hardboard down, shiny side up, and butted the joints together. I then used duct tape to tape over the joins. (I was after an instant, cheap solution.)
The result has been a smooth dry floor with a little bit of give in it (teacups bounce!) which has been easy to keep clean. I've replaced worn tape a few times and I've just got round to putting a new sheet down in front of the workbench, where it had got a bit scuffed.

It might not do if you are dragging cast iron machinery around, but it's worked for me.

 

[cusimar9]

Just had a chat with floorpaintexpress and they suggested the floor needs to be sand blasted back to bare concrete before applying an epoxy finish. That sounds like a right farse to me...

 

[carlb40]

Just had a chat with floorpaintexpress and they suggested the floor needs to be sand blasted back to bare concrete before applying an epoxy finish. That sounds like a right farse to me...

Hence why i never linked to an epoxy paint i used years ago in a commercial autobody shop. Not only a farce, but will probably cost more than over boarding it. Which will be easier on your feet and and tools that get dropped.

 

[john458]

Not tried these http://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/rolson- ... ds-1994620 but hey seem a fair price

 

[deema]

Depending in the size of your workshop, horse box / loose box matts are a great solution. Very, very tough, nice and thick, heavy so they don't curl up, large and relatively cheap. Second hand they are even better value. Try eBay.

 

[cusimar9]

Not tried these http://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/rolson- ... ds-1994620 but hey seem a fair price

Yes I did spot those this morning and that is a very fair price. My garage is just under 20m2 so that would work out around £90 which is very reasonable indeed.

Tongue & Grooved flooring works out at just over £100 + DPM + paint.

If only I could get some pictures of the rolson stuff laid down to see what it would actually look like...

 

[DennisCA]

My plan is to find the cheapest garage klinker tiles I can get my hands on, I've seen people mention finding really cheap tiles, like a few euros per square meter so I am on the lookout for similar deals. My floor / foundation is already insulated.