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Wooden spokeshave WIP

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Hornbeam

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I have always preferred wooden spokeshaves to metal ones but find that adjusting them is a bit more awkward. So I bought a couple of the Ron Hock large blades with the idea of making 2 new fully adjustable wooden spokeshaves.
When the 2 blades arrived I noticed that the tangs on one of the blades were not parallel. Classic Hand tools were superb and sent out another one which arrived the next day.
I had some small bubinga offcuts from a previous project and cut 2 blanks 300mm X 38mm X 24 mm. I also cut a third blank in some beech to use as a first practice to make sure everything worked as planned rather than spoil a good blank.
blanks.jpg
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The first stage was to slot the base of the blank to accept the blade. I did this slightly deeper than the thickness of the blade as the blank would be skimmed down at a later stage.
slotted blanks.jpg

The next stage is most critical which is to drill the holes in the blank for the tangs and the adjustment screws. To ensure accuracy I made a small template out of some high tensity PE
drilling template.jpg

The template was fitted into the cut slot in the base of the blank and holes were drilled for the tangs and the adjustment screws.
drill presss template.jpg

Most people seem to use machine screws fitted from the underside but these can only be adjusted by taking the blade out. Instead I drilled the adjuster holes all the way through and epoxied in a threaded sleeve set a few mm into the hole to allow for countersinking for clearance of the screw head. The screws go right through the blank. When everything is finished, I will cut to length and slot the top so they can be adjusted with a small screwdriver
adjuster screws.jpg

Will add some more tomorrow night if people are interested
Ian
 

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thetyreman

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very nice and great customer service from classic hand tools! look forward to seeing the finished spoke-shaves, I like hock blades a lot.
 

Hornbeam

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WIP Continued
Next stage is to cut the opening for the blade and clearance for the shavings. I fitted the blade into the blank and carefully scribed the outline and the clearance for the chippings
blade first fit.jpg


Careful cuts down the edges of the opening and then most of the waste can be cut out with chisel as for a normal halving joint. Once roughly cut out, the area needs to be carefully pared to define the opening and in particular the mouth. I did this by mounting the blank in a vice and clamped at the correct angle I then set up another piece of wood parallel to the blank and use a finely set shoulder plane. The second piece of wood makes sure the pane doesnt rock. Take care not to open the mouth. Better to be slightly under
cutting mouth 2.jpg


The blade was now fitted int the blank and a working spokeshave but not very ergonomic handles
blade full fit.jpg

The outline of the handles was drawn on. The rounded cut out where the handle emerges from the body was drilled with a forstner bit in the drill press and the rest bandsawn
bandsawn handles.jpg

I smoothed out the bandsaw lines using thea rasp and then radiused the 3 corners I could get at with a roundover bit. The 4th edge had to be done by hand. The shape of the rounding was refined with a spokeshave and then lots of sandpaper.

The second spokeshave I did slightly differently as I wanted to try a different method of adjustment. Once I had a working spokeshave, I Cut the front of the mouth off cutting a 10mm rbate all the way across.
removable mouth.jpg

I then made 2 removable mouths from bubinga. I kept flat, the other is curved. The thickness of teh mouth pieces was slightly less than the depth of the rebate so that it would take quite a thick shaving. The removable mouth pieces are secured by sleeve screws epoxied into the bubinga. The sleeves protrude about 6mm which gives positive location into the body of the spokeshave.
Everything was finished down to 240 grit and then finished with boiled linseed oil
20191023_192121.jpg

In use all the adjuster screws on the bubinga spokeshave are very light and it is really easy to adjust and use
The beech spoke shave with the removable mouth is effectively 2 for the price of 1. 1 flat and 1 rounded just by changing the mouth. The depth of cut is set by adjusting the height of the mouth usng a couple of shims. Although quite quick in practice I will probably fit additional blade adjusters as everything is predrilled for them.
I do find both spokeshaves slightly on the large side. Perhaps I will make a small version or possibly a travisher
 

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Hornbeam

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Hi Pete, I managed to miss your thread earlier this year. You have got me thinking about making my own blades. I have some old planer blades which are well worn down and dont fit my planer which I might try and cut down.
I light the smaller size of your shave but to me the handles are back to front (but this does make it stronger) and probably better for cutting on the pull
Ian
 

Pete Maddex

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The handles are a design feature #-o

I tend to hold it between fingers and thumbs so the handles aren't used much.
My blade is O1 steel it's easy to work and harden.

Pete
 

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