Wooden plane builds anyone?

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J_SAMa

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Hi all,
I'm intersted in building my own wooden plane. Could you all please share some links (preferrably to thraeds on this forum) to plane builds?
To start with i'm going to build a smaller, single-iron plane, like a scrub plane or even a block plane. Am I right in thinking that these are easier than say a bigger jack plane?
Are floats necessary? I imagine that if I build it Krenov style, i.e. four-piece construction, floats won't be necessarysince I can shape the sole openly. But what if I were to do it more traditionally (mortising out the bed)? Also, if I do need a float but don't have one ( they're so ******* expensive), can I just use a file?

Sam
 
Morning,
With floats it depends if you want the luxury if the. A cheaper way is to make them.
http://www.wkfinetools.com/tmaking/art/ ... loats1.asp

Bill carter dosent use floats, others do. If you have the cash just buy them
http://www.billcarterwoodworkingplanemaker.co.uk/8.html

http://traditional-handplanes.com/GFTH_ ... nov-plane/
Build plane.

There are so many links and sources to this practise. A simple google and a cup of tea and you ready to did everything you need.

I would start off with a laminated block plane, the progressively move on to trickier projects. Untill you are ready to tackle the geometry or a badger or Skewed mitre :)

All the best
TT
 
I'm just building a Krenov style plane myself.
Made in Beech with a Hock blade, it's working really well. I might time to do some more work on it today, but, as recommended, I'm taking some time in working out what the final shape should be for me by using it a bit before final finishing.

I didn't find a lot of help on this forum's archives, but some of the useful links I found are copied below.

krenov-planes-t41583.html

http://www.crfinefurniture.com/1pages/s ... plane.html

http://www.sihistin.fi/en/tools/oak_plane.html

http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/page.asp?p=1291

http://www.riverswest.org/uploads/1/6/4 ... dplane.pdf

The absolute bible for making these planes is 'Making and Mastering wooden planes' by David Finck. Sadly it's out of print and only sells for silly money secondhand. Maybe a thorough Google search might turn up a pirate PDF of it ?
 
There are a few good builds on lumberjacks- one is here http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23427

I would start with a simple krenov style thing or a shoulder/rebate plane- that way your only investment needs to be a blade that can be reused if it doesn't work out.
 
The difference between building a Jack and a smaller Plane is very little. You'll use more material, that's about it.
With the laminated (Krenov) style of construction you won't need a float or files. Chopping out traditional style and a float becomes much more necessary. It can obviously be done without when using a cross pin style, abutment type and floats will really show their advantage. Coarse files could be used but of course it will be slower. There's a reason why the float was used in Plane construction.
For a first Plane it might be better to use the laminated technique.
 
Note that many of those plane builds above are not Krenov planes, just laminated builds. The Krenov plane is identified by a laminated body AND a rotating cross pin designed to work with a wedge. A round dowel is a poor substitute since this will damage the wedge over time and prevent it locking.

The cross pin ...

BuildingaKrenovSmoother_html_m3cda9b0d.jpg


There is a tutorial on my website for this smoother and block plane ...

BuildingaKrenovSmoother_html_276fc580.jpg


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTo ... other.html

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
MIGNAL":aoydiws5 said:
The difference between building a Jack and a smaller Plane is very little. You'll use more material, that's about it.
It can obviously be done without when using a cross pin style, abutment type and floats will really show their advantage.
Can you elaborate? Even pressure? Less seasonal movement?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
marcros":aoydiws5 said:
There are a few good builds on lumberjacks- one is here http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23427

I would start with a simple krenov style thing or a shoulder/rebate plane- that way your only investment needs to be a blade that can be reused if it doesn't work out.
I heard somewhere that BU configuration doesn't work well with wooden planes because that angle makes the sole fragile?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Is a shoulder plane easier or is a block plane? I actually need both an LP shoulder plane and a HP block plane.
Do Krenov style planes make good scrubs? Never held one in my hand but the grip doesn't seem as positive as a pistol tote. It's like you can't put any power on it. Also, will drilling the holes for the pin be a problem without a drill press?
Sam
 
Ciao,
I built some classic wooden planes in one piece as well as four pieces construction. In both cases I have not used floats. You can do the job only with chisels.
This is my last in 4 pieces. The difference with another in wich the throat is chiselled out is a easier and quicker construction.

ws4j2t.jpg


Ciao,
Giuliano :D
 
J_SAMa":3mdr2nsm said:
MIGNAL":3mdr2nsm said:
The difference between building a Jack and a smaller Plane is very little. You'll use more material, that's about it.
It can obviously be done without when using a cross pin style, abutment type and floats will really show their advantage.
Can you elaborate? Even pressure? Less seasonal movement?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
marcros":3mdr2nsm said:
There are a few good builds on lumberjacks- one is here http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23427

I would start with a simple krenov style thing or a shoulder/rebate plane- that way your only investment needs to be a blade that can be reused if it doesn't work out.
I heard somewhere that BU configuration doesn't work well with wooden planes because that angle makes the sole fragile?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Is a shoulder plane easier or is a block plane? I actually need both an LP shoulder plane and a HP block plane.
Do Krenov style planes make good scrubs? Never held one in my hand but the grip doesn't seem as positive as a pistol tote. It's like you can't put any power on it. Also, will drilling the holes for the pin be a problem without a drill press?
Sam

No, I'm just referring to the amount of work and skill required. In other words it's no harder to build a long Plane than it is to build a small Plane.
My old site that I haven't done anything with for years:

http://linuxplane.awardspace.com/
 
I can't claim to have completed a wooden plane build - my stalled attempt is a long way down in the Projects section, waiting for me to revive it - but I can offer one equipment related tip.
To saw out where the wedge will go you could thread a coping saw through but it's better to have a stiff, narrow-bladed saw, as seen here:

IMG_1793_zps6b53104e.jpg


The one I have was sold by Axminster as a Japanese keyhole saw, but I'm pretty sure it's very similar to those sold as plasterboard saws - which are easy to find and pretty cheap. The teeth are like those on a Swiss Army Knife saw, so with no set outside the thickness of the blade. It cuts on the pull stroke.
 
Rhossydd":sp3zijeh said:
Mr_P":sp3zijeh said:
That looks interesting. A shame no one imports it into Europe yet.
I wonder how much shipping duty and VAT would add ? It doesn't look to be particularly heavy or bulky.


It will be near £50 by the time shipping, VAT etc. is included. Not especially cheap. Nor is the Hock kit. I compare it to buying something like a new Stanley Premium plane. Of course if you want the fun of making and using your own Plane then I guess that price consideration may be secondary.
You can get perfectly good blades (and chipbreakers) on Ebay for around £10. Plenty of old woodies on Ebay that have seen better days. There's also a stockist of NOS Plane blades. If you look at the blades pictured on my website they are either old English Plane blades or the cheap Chinese HSS blades. Both have worked perfectly well, although the Chinese blade won't take a chipbreaker (if you want one). Plenty of old English blades will have very good chipbreakers with them. The risk with the old blades is getting one that can be relatively easy to restore.
 
The absolute bible for making these planes is 'Making and Mastering wooden planes' by David Finck. Sadly it's out of print and only sells for silly money secondhand. Maybe a thorough Google search might turn up a pirate PDF of it ?

The book only covers the 4 piece laminated plane with nothing on the traditional one piece plane, and it seems the book is more aimed at the powered tool user as it has a chapter on choosing, setting and using a bandsaw and/or table saw. Thinking about it, I think the laminated plane is actually designed to be made with machines, if you're going to use hand tools to cut up a piece of wood into pieces and make them square and flat with the correct angles you might as well just chisel it out from that one piece of wood. I would think you'd only need to get the iron bed flat and square and also the front of the wedge recess.

I'm trying to make a small plane (60mm long) at the moment. I've chopped out the main "hole" so far and need to start on the wedge channels/recesses.

60mm long.JPG

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MIGNAL":1c5mdzyl said:
J_SAMa":1c5mdzyl said:
MIGNAL":1c5mdzyl said:
The difference between building a Jack and a smaller Plane is very little. You'll use more material, that's about it.
It can obviously be done without when using a cross pin style, abutment type and floats will really show their advantage.
Can you elaborate? Even pressure? Less seasonal movement?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Actually I was asking about what "advantages" the abutment type has over cross pin type.
 
The aim here is not to just have a wooden plane, but to have planes cheaply since some metal planes (like shoulder planes) are expensive regardless old or new. Therefore hock kit isn't an option, I'd be better off hunting for one on eBay.
I'll probably make a chisel plane first over the next few weeks, just to get a feel of it.
Sam
 
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