Wood seasoning.

[Richard J]

If I have a beech tree that has been down for about three years, but still has bark on it. And I cut blanks out of it lengthwise up the trunk, rather than cross wise. How long would I realistically need to season/store if for?

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

1 year per inch of thickness plus a year, if carefully stored off the ground with air circulating round it.
For a lot more detailed info review Chas's recent posts...in there you'll find a separate pdf with this whole area documented. Bottom line drying takes ages so you might like to try rough turning bowl blanks to around 10x final wall thickness...wrap in paper and store for another 6 months before final turning....will save you about 3 years!

 

[gregmcateer]

And DEFINITELY split / saw them down the middle, otherwise you will get gazillions of cracks radiating out from the pith in the centre. (DAMHIK!!)

 

[duncanh]

1 year per inch of thickness plus a year, if carefully stored off the ground with air circulating round it.
For a lot more detailed info review Chas's recent posts...in there you'll find a separate pdf with this whole area documented. Bottom line drying takes ages so you might like to try rough turning bowl blanks to around 10x final wall thickness...wrap in paper and store for another 6 months before final turning....will save you about 3 years!

Shouldn't that say the roughed wall thickness should be 10% the diameter of the blank? That's what I use and it usually works.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

yup...that's what I meant

 

[Castanea]

With beech sawing might make more sense than splitting - it's not a wood I enjoy splitting at all. Turns beautifully though although the grain can make it interesting!

 

[Richard J]

Thankyou for that. It's got those lovely spalted lines running through it, so is worth making the effort to save. Very hard though. Takes some hacking.

 

[CHJ]

Thankyou for that. It's got those lovely spalted lines running through it, so is worth making the effort to save. Very hard though. Takes some hacking.

Then if it is already spalting you would be well advised to at least get it into dry storage and if possible rough turned to speed the drying.
Spalting can very rapidly develop if the wood is damp and within a very short time render it very pretty but worthless,
beech can also take on a dirty unattractive grey (mould?) appearance if in a moist atmosphere.

 

[The novice]

I am very new to this and have just turned a spalted Beech vase myself. It seemed fairly dry until I started to get into the middle when hollowing it out. I'm my eyes it's a beautiful vase but I'm now concerned it will start to split. Is there any thing I can do to prevent this.

 

[Stiggy]

That happen to me when I rough turned a spalted Birch vase. I put a generous coat of sanding sealer all over it and waxed the tenon end.

It's on my shelf drying nicely and no cracks or splits anywhere.

What works for one person might not work for another though.

 

[CHJ]

...What works for one person might not work for another though.

Wise words, so many folks take what they read from the internet without any consideration of different locations and local conditions.
The local humidity gradient and drying conditions in you back yard can be totally different from someone living the other side of the hill let alone another county, altitude or country.

And that's not even considering indoors, shed, living room etc.

Only time and trial will sort out what works best with fewest failures in your home.

I can dry rough turned bowls on a high level shelf in a north facing conservatory that heats metal objects too hot to touch in summer and get away with it, I can only assume the humidity level is adequate.
Some larger logs stored in a dry garage workshop next door are more at risk unless packed tightly together in a micro climate.