Wood fillers


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The short video I posted in this thread French Polish Technique. is what inspired me to have a go at polishing.

He doesn't cover grain filling unfortunately, but he covers the application of the polish in a concise manner.
The piece of Eucalyptus he is polishing has a very tight grain, he has already filled the small cracks with superglue so there is little grain to fill. Using his method on such a piece will work well but I’d like to see him try it on a deep grained timber.. he would be rubbing away for weeks to fill the grain like that. Also may I add, in almost forty years of French Polishing I have never heard of anyone using olive oil, to lubricate the polish it seems a very odd choice to me.
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...Also may I add, in almost forty years of French Polishing I have never heard of anyone using olive oil, to lubricate the polish, it seems a very odd choice to me.
I don't disagree (my experience with french polish is very limited) but I have seen it recommended (probably on youtube though so take it with a pinch of salt - not literally though else you'll scratch your polish!)
Regarding the Aquacoat Filler and to try and answer mrpercysnodgrass's question:

I am only a hobbyist and make relatively small objects such as jewellery boxes or similar, so I don't really need to use a copious amount of the filler. I still have a half full container which I bought about 2 years ago.
As I mentioned in my post, the tub of filler does go a long way and for information has a viscosity akin to silicone, without the stickiness.
In regards to application, I would ordinarily wipe the filler on with a rag and sand back lightly, repeating the process untill the majority of the surface is filled.
Like mrpercysnodgrass rightly said, some timber grains are courser than others and when this problem occours, I will apply it with a plastic filling spreader so it is slightly raised above the surface, and sand level when dry. when all the 'dips' are filled, I will wipe another light coats over the surface and sand back with 400 or 800 grit.
It doesnt take too long to dry and after a bit of practise, I can now produce a flat, mirror like surface.
I finish the project with a water based PU varnish applied by brush or sometimes using an artists's airbrush with the same varnish which has been diluted.
I'm certainly no expert but I have found that this product works well for me, but as stated before, it isn't cheap and I am not sure that it would be cost effective in the commercial world.

I hope this helps to answer the question?