Will I get the wrinkles out of this veneer with an iron?

[Graham Orm]

If so, how?

Cheers.

 

[marcros]

i think that you will struggle- it looks a bit too much. I have only ever had any success doing so whilst hammer veneering, gluing, spraying with a water spray, covering with a damp cloth and ironing the lot in small patches. it has worked with things that are not quite flat, but nothing rippled.

could you try a veneer softener and clamping between cauls? http://www.richardjonesfurniture.com/PD ... Veneer.pdf is the article i have consulted in the past.

 

[RogerS]

Macros, you have beaten me to it. Richard's solution is foolproof and works like a charm.

 

[Graham Orm]

Thanks guys. A very interesting read.

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

Are you going to be using the veneer straight away?
Are you going to be laying it down with scotch?

 

[Graham Orm]

Thanks Percy. I will be using the veneer within a couple of weeks. Scotch??? I may drink some.

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

"Scotch" = Pearl, liquid hide glue, animal glue, and I'm sure there are a few other names for it as well.
If you are going to use scotch, you only need to wet the veneer, place paper between the leaves (brown or wallpaper lining paper ) and place it between two boards with a heavy weight on top over night. Only take the veneer out when you are ready to use it otherwise it may curl up again.
When you are ready to lay down the veneer, make sure your glue has been on the heat for at least three or four hours and scrape the scum off the top every half hour or so until you get a semi opaque stained glass like crust on the top. Your glue wants to be on the thin side too but not too thin. Make sure you have about a 1/4" overhang on your veneer to allow for shrinkage as you will always get more with a burr. Coat each surface generously with glue and work quickly before it gels. When you have the veneer in place push it down initially with the palm of your hand then wet the surface but do not soak it, run your electric iron quickly over the veneer with a light sweeping motion. Now place your hand on one side of the veneer and with your veneer hammer start to work the glue out to one side. When you have reached the edge clean off the excess glue with a brush or rag and warm water then place your hand on the side you have just worked and hammer the other side.
Next pour yourself a glass of "Irish" to celebrate a job well done!

 

[Mr T]

You make it sound so easy Percy!

Chris

 

[Graham Orm]

Thanks Percy. I doubt if I'll be using hide glue but I'll update my results.

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

You make it sound so easy Percy!

Chris

I think it is fairly easy, and certainly easier than using pva or other modern glues. At least you can see what the veneer is doing and because the glue is reversable it makes corrections easy to iron out too.

 

[marcros]

You make it sound so easy Percy!

Chris

I think it is fairly easy, and certainly easier than using pva or other modern glues. At least you can see what the veneer is doing and because the glue is reversable it makes corrections easy to iron out too.

+1. I have done a bit of hammer veneering, and it is much easier/less risky than pva

 

[Graham Orm]

All taken on board guys thanks.

 

[RogerS]

MrP is spot on, as ever, with his advice. However, if I was a beginner I wouldn't dream of trying that myself. I went on the excellent John Lloyd veneering course where hide glue features strongly. But I still use more modern glues in preference.

MrP also forgot to mention to buy a cheap iron from Argos as if you use SWMBO's steam iron for this, you will probably find all your clothes cut up into tiny strips and a very frosty reception.