Which gouge?

[Andy Kev.]

I've just seen a plan for a pipe rack and it might make a half-decent present for a pipe-collecting colleague who is not far off retirement.

The pipe bowls require "nests" to be gouged out of the wood so that they can sit stably.

So, knowing nothing about gouges, my question is, what kind of gouge would this job require? I've heard that there are in and out cannel gouges. Presumably one would be right for the job and the other wrong. Also what size?

I've had a flick through the Dictum catalogue and the choice seems to be cheerfully bewildering. The profiles seem to range from nearly flat to steeper than 180°. So that's the next question: What profile? Are there any manufacturers which are recommended?

You can see the problem for somebody who's never even had a gouge in his hand. I'm looking to get just one for this job (or will it require more than one?) as I can't see the point of getting any more.

Incidentally and just out of curiosity, is there any difference between gouges for general woodwork and for turning?

 

[cedarwood]

I would of thought that this little tool would be just what you need
http://www.my-tool-shed.co.uk/p14704/Fa ... tAodSjsAtg

or one similar

 

[JohnPW]

It would depend on the shape and size of the hollow you want to make. A medium width and sweep (shape of curve) straight gouge should be OK to start with, eg:
http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product ... -35-mm.htm

sweep 8, 13mm wide or sweep 9 16mm.

 

[monkeybiter]

For the one-off job you intend I reckon a router would be best, with a bit such as this http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Dished_Panel_Mould_85.html

Just one slow plunge cut per dish.

Assuming you have a router you could then produce a row of nice uniform shallow depressions just right for the job. You could even use this bit in this application [plunge only] in a pillar drill.

Using a gouge for the first time would most likely lead to quite variable results and not necessarily what you're after.

HTH

 

[Phil Pascoe]

+1 for moneybiter. By far the easiest, if not the best. You'll probably spend more than that on a decent gouge, anyway.

 

[Billy Flitch]

I thought this was a hand tool forum, Andy asks for advice on which gouge to use and you say get a router bit.
The gouge you want is a Carpenters carving gouge also called a out channel gouge. I can see one on a internet auction site at the moment for a fiver do the job and if you don't want to keep it put it back on the site would probably cost you just the post.
The hardest thing you would have to do is put a edge on it. Tell you what if you buy it come back and Ill show you how to do it in 5 minuets even if you have never put an edge on a gouge.

 

[JohnPW]

Yeah I forgot to say it should be an out canel gouge, ie the bevel is on the outside of the curve.

You can sharpen it on normal bench stones but you need something else to take off the wire edge, like a slip stone or fine sandpaper wrapped around a dowel. You could also use the edge of a bench stone but that would not be ideal.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Billy, if you always look at new posts, it doesn't make it obvious which forum the question's posted in. I (we) didn't realise the OP was intent on a more difficult (imo) way of doing the job.

 

[monkeybiter]

I thought this was a hand tool forum, Andy asks for advice on which gouge to use and you say get a router bit.

Then use the cutter in a brace. Or hold the router in your hands.

 

[lanemaux]

Speaking of braces and bits. you could drill a row of holes and rip saw in half to create 2 strips of rests. Just a thought.

 

[snickare]

Just a tought,true here is the hand tool section,true the hand router method( if in this case is the best i don´t know anyway) is probably the fastest.but wrong by my ´point of view,talk about fastest method to do the job,everyone can use a hand router,but not everyone can use a gouge,and this is the right time for learn this,knows how to use,sharpen and choose the right hand tool for the right job i think give you confidence in working with the hand and teach you about don´t rely only in power tools for do a job, what about if someone can´t afford a expensive router or planer..we will say is impossible do the job without machine?i think this is the wrong approach..craftsmen before us have worked centuries without power tools,and they made stunning work,so why don´t go on that path,expecially if there are no pressure on selling things,like in commercial shops,but just enjoy the final product and take the right time to do the job right..is not a run against the clock..so my point is..take a good gouge,learn how to handle it and how to sharpen it..you will add some experience in your skills..plus the final surface that the router leaves it needs to be sanded anyway,instead using a gouge can leave a nice handmade finish instead than a off the shelf ikea product..if you like..there are still things that are better done with hand tools than with power tools..these objects were made only with hand tools,a knife a adze a spokeshave some planes,gouges,axes..no glue just joints..everything is possible if you develop the right skills..

 

[monkeybiter]

Without seeing the design but knowing the application I'd probably want to use a straight gouge of 7 or 8 sweep at approx. 12mm wide. However, not having one of those I'd use narrower with a greater sweep and take more time smoothing.
Others will have their own preferences.

 

[Andy Kev.]

Thanks for the replies/suggestions. I think I may treat myself to a couple in the size areas mentioned and have a play to see what I can achieve.

 

[Max Power]

Very impressive Snickare, some excellent work there =D>

 

[snickare]

Thanks Max,these pictures have some years,i did them when i went to sloyd school for one year..in the school was forbidden use any machinery or sandpaper,the only machine we had was a lathe,for turning bowls,and the final finish was the one achieved only with gauges and card scraper or the knife or axe..it was worthed.